Recent content by mattthebrat

#21 is yours!

A few old washers and you'll be all fixed up!:D

If a larger screw doesn't work dropping the dash is about your only option....it really isn't that bad, just the screws on top, the two 13mm??? bolts underneath, and the steering column. You may not even have to take the column off of the firewall to pull the dash back far enough.

Buying a basket case is not a problem, but buying it for 2800 is....anything that you can't hear run is not worth more than $1500.

I ran a thread die over all the seat bolts and seat belt bolts along with a bunch of PB blaster and I didn't break a single bit on my truck. The die made a big difference in how they came out.

Try reading this thread: http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?t=13891&highlight=door That is the basic instructions for removing the door panel(s) other than the instructions there I am not sure what could be holding you up.

Thanks Missy, you've got me sold!!

That's Bill Heath's land speed truck isn't??

Awesome idea and design Leroy!! Great to see yet more innovation coming out of pmdcable.com.

Unless it is an OBS (burb, dually or CC) it will have the electronic HVAC.

You can check the motor and arm from under the dash. Have someone run the controls and watch the motor to make sure that it is working properly and check to see that the arm is still attached properly and not binding. If it is actually the door itself, you have to take the dash down and split...

Ed, when you get done with them, either post some pictures up here, or send them to me......

Thanks for the advice guys, I think I have a couple of old lenses laying around that I will experiment with!

Make sure to drop the rear suspension out ever once and a while to look it over and grease it up!! Espically the main pivot, don't let the moisture get in there, I have seen several of them lock up and snap off. That sled should serve you pretty well, the Polaris 500s are some of the best...

Guess not................