Possible Engine Build for my 93 Truck

[ak diesel driver]

They didn't change the oil pan when they went to squirter blocks

 

[dbrannon79]

No matter which oil pump you get- you can use the ol die grinder and burrs or stones and make some very nice improvements on the oil flow through it.
Search what was taught by Smokey Yunick. That guy lead the world in things like this. Copy how he showed to do it best you can and even your first time will make major improvements.

I was searching online but can only find the stories about his hot vapor engine, nothing about the oil pump!

 

[Will L.]

Ok- here is one by David Vizard.
Much if the same info. I suggest 2x speed…This dude out talks me.

 

[dbrannon79]

I will have to pull the pump I have apart and have a look at it. see if there are improvements to be made! I have seen other videos explaining checking it for wear and when it's fubar and safe to run. this will be a fun endeavor!

 

[dbrannon79]

geez time goes by fast!! it's been a whole 3 weeks since I have messed with the engine! I finally got out there today and finished up the heads. I had left them all apart on the bench and with the last couple of rain storms on top of the garage roof leaking, there was some surface rust on the heads, valve seats and the valves them selves. I had to re-do all of the valves I had already lapped. then I started on the other head.

By now I have a system going that seems to work. I will start out with the lapping compound, then go to using the fine grade jewelers rouge mixed with some paint polishing compound to finish it up and give it a somewhat polished finish. (pic below of all my gear...) I had made some ends for my blow gun that fit into the intake and exhaust ports so I could use air pressure and some soapy water in a spray bottle to test each valve.

I had three valves that gave me some trouble getting them to seal, but I got a little more aggressive with the lapping and showed them who's the boss. Got them all sealed up, installed and even installed new valve seals.

This time I coated the heads with some WD-40 not knowing how long they will sit here until they get installed.

Now I can shift my attention over to the block, checking bearing clearance along with replacing the two piece rear main seal.

 

[dbrannon79]

Hey guys, question for you all. Marking the main and rod caps before removal... I was going to order a set of steel number stamps to mark each one, but was reading online and seeing some folks are saying not to use anything that requires a blow with a hammer, rather to use a metal scribe instead. I want to pull the crank and clean it all up and then look at bearing clearances.

What's the consensus on this?

This is what I was going to order to mark each main cap and rod cap, the idea was to mark them in the orientation for direction and number then go over it with a paint pen.

 

[dbrannon79]

This is what others are saying to use from reading online. a machinist pen.

 

[Will L.]

I used number stamps just like post # 226 for years and never had any issues.
You don’t do it to a high performance build - but anything a 6.5 is capable of, it won’t affect it.

 

[dbrannon79]

The other side to this is should I leave them alone since I'm not having the block machined? I did take a screwdriver and attempt to move the crank back n forth. it did move but ever so slightly, not much. I know the rear main cap will need to come off to replace the rear main seal since it's a two piece.

 

[dieselolds]

The other side to this is should I leave them alone since I'm not having the block machined? I did take a screwdriver and attempt to move the crank back n forth. it did move but ever so slightly, not much. I know the rear main cap will need to come off to replace the rear main seal since it's a two piece.

I definitely would stamp the rods and caps if your taking the engine completely apart.Are you just going to reuse the pistons and go with new standard rings?Or planning with oversize?

 

[MrMarty51]

Stamp them rods and caps and main bearing caps, but, do it wile they still are torqued.
Plastigauge is Your friend.
If there is no major scoring or wear on the bearings and they ppastigauge out okay then I’d not be afraid to reuse them.
Those bearings all are work hardened in and should last a very long time.