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My 2005 Yukon XL

Finally bit the bullet and got a full set of Weather Tech floor mats for the Yukon. My wife talked me into it, by ordering them herself. Had hoped to get a cheap set from the JY or on MarketPlace. Guess we are done waiting. These are way to nice for my Yukon.
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Gonna mock up some carpet that I cut out from the JY sometime for the gap between row 2 and row 3. Kinda annoying there isnt a piece there.
 
Pulled the camper from the warehouse to the house today in prep for the season. The Yukon struggles with the 6K-lbs brick at any resemblance of an incline, mainly due to the 3.42 gear set and slightly oversized tires. On the flat its tolerable, 60 to 65 mph and 3rd gear.

I re-connected the ground on my e-fan override system (normally just use in the winter with the plow, but it triggers a CEL) and it performed much better in terms of coolant temp and trans temp, but the power just isnt there on the hill. 2nd gear, 4k rpms and about 45 MPH on the hill. Just north of 210.4K miles today.
 
Been noticing my oil pressure going down again over the last few months. Normal hot idle used to be 30 to 40-PSI. Today we were below 20 at hot idle.
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Im at 5k on my synthetic 5w-30, so I am going to change it tomorrow. I am also going to swap out the pressure sensor with the one from the 1/2-parts truck to see if that changes anything.

Per my understanding, 10-PSI per 1k-revs is sufficient. So technically I am still fine, but noticing the change has me wondering.
 
Keep in mind this gauge is calculated by the ECM, not the actual oil pressure! I have seen so many blown engines because it was too late when that gauge bottomed out and the knocking started.

I would tee into where that sensor goes and run you a mechanical gauge to always have a real reading.

this era of GM engines are known for loss in oil pressure at around 225k+ miles due to a cracked o-ring on the oil pick up tube. GM put a bulletin out on this but didn't make it a recall. but also they are dirty engines too. almost everyone I have talked to that tore into them with high mileage has some amount of sludge build up. My daughters in-laws 2000 burb with a 5.3 we just barley caught it in time. rather than trying to tear into the front to get at the oil pump for the o-ring, I decided to pull the front diff and drop the pan. I found 2-3" of sludge in the pan!! cleaned it all up and threw it back together and oil pressure was back up to normal.

it still sits in my yard, they haven't decided on what they want to do, but I told them we really need to pull the intake and valve covers and clean it out.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Keep in mind this gauge is calculated by the ECM, not the actual oil pressure! I have seen so many blown engines because it was too late when that gauge bottomed out and the knocking started.

I would tee into where that sensor goes and run you a mechanical gauge to always have a real reading.

this era of GM engines are known for loss in oil pressure at around 225k+ miles due to a cracked o-ring on the oil pick up tube. GM put a bulletin out on this but didn't make it a recall. but also they are dirty engines too. almost everyone I have talked to that tore into them with high mileage has some amount of sludge build up. My daughters in-laws 2000 burb with a 5.3 we just barley caught it in time. rather than trying to tear into the front to get at the oil pump for the o-ring, I decided to pull the front diff and drop the pan. I found 2-3" of sludge in the pan!! cleaned it all up and threw it back together and oil pressure was back up to normal.

it still sits in my yard, they haven't decided on what they want to do, but I told them we really need to pull the intake and valve covers and clean it out.
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I actually had low pressure concerns maybe 2-ish years ago. Lowest i recalled was maybe 25PSI. Dropped the pan and did the o ring and it jumped the pressure back to 40 hot idle. To be honest wasnt alarmed with what i found in the pan when I did that. O-ring was definitly deformed and broke the minute i pulled it out. I think the pics are in this thread somewhere.

I was gonna swap the pressure sensor too. I do want to research an easy mechanical guage. To be honest been thinking of doing this for fuel too.
 
So we are barking up the right tree.

The plug is wet, so oil is passing through the sensor.
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Also found out its not OEM (white connector and engraved jungle store part number)! The one on my parts truck looks to be OEM (black connector)
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Been getting a lot of rotational brake noise lately. Upon further inspection my front rotors are rotting and literally delaminating sheets off from the inside face. The outside is severely pitted and starting to chunk off as well. I actually went back through my thread here and have pics of these same rotors in early to mid March 2026 that look "normal" for a NE vehicle. Since then things have escalated in a manner I cant comprehend. We did have salt on the roads until late April for sure. Will need to replace soon with another set from RA.
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These were Detroit Axle branded rotors that barely lasted a year. Winter DETROYED them. Absolute JUNK. The Raybestos Element 3 on the rear are still looking good, but only 1 winter into them so far. I hope to stick with that brand for the front.

What are most using for pads now adays? Looking for mid grade stuff in terms of life and capability. I believe I usually go ceramic or semi metallic. Mainly looking for something that can handle extremely corrosive environments.
 
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Maybe when you get the new ones, clean them up free of oil and whatnot. then have them dipped in a high heat epoxy resin paint so the inners are sealed from the elements.

from the photo, it makes me wonder if they used a higher salt content. I'd check over the rest of the fame too.
 
That is a good idea! electro-plating with copper or nickel. using something like a long brazing rod bent into a coil and a small battery charger. I can't remember if the ground goes to the part your plating or it's the positive, but I know it's one lead on the part and one lead on the metal your using to plate with in a tub of water. sometimes you will want to add something to make the water slightly conductive. baking soda, vinegar or somesuch to help but usually you don't need to.

Plating with copper or brass the water will turn green and the longer you leave it, the more plating. it's a long process to get a good coating though.
 
Well, had another strange scenario last night. We were on our way home from a dinner as it was my wifes birthday. Doing about 40 slowing to a stop sign and hears a loud squeel that lasted maybe only 2 or 3-seconds then stopped. Once we came to the stop at the stop sign we smelled burning brakes. Mind you I have about 60 miles on it by now since I cleaned up the brakes a bit to get me by until new ones are ordered and arrived.

Decided to drive the Yukon to work again, not issues arise from the burning brake smell. When I get to work I notice a little different sound under the hood. Pop the hood to find the culprit of the stank and I believe noise:
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I am assuming a clutch failure happened last night on the AC compressor, the smell seems to be burning rubber. I was using the AC last night as it was in the 80s with high humidity. I did not use the AC this morning on my way to work. So this compressor was replaced when I first bought the vehicle to get the AC working again, not sure what brand it is.

I guess the plan for now is to pull the belt and clutch and inspect the bearings and compressor to make sure it didnt sieze up. Trying to YouTube educate myself. I hope its just a clutch replacement. Anyone had this happen?
 
dbrannon79 said:
That looks indictive of the compressor locking up and melting the clutch. you might need to put a new belt on the parts list with that!
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Got it apart at lunch today in about 15 minutes. Love the simplicity of these trucks.

So the compressor is not siezed. I got the clutch off, threaded the bolt back in and the shaft spins with minimal effort. Nothing feels out of the ordinary. The pulley bearing feels "ok". Not as smooth as I would like, but not something I would say is bad right now. Not sure if any of the schmeg from the failure may have got in there, needs further disassembly to determine. But the freewheeling of the pulley (not connected to the clutch plate or pump drive) seems to work.

What I see is a rubber isolator failure. My thought is the rubber deteriorated, and lost is ability to remain in connection with the outer clutch plate and while engaged sliped between the two and burnt up the rubber.
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I guess I am trying to comprehend what would happen if the compressor siezed? If it did this outer plate would be locked in with it and nothing would spin. The outer pulley would free wheel. The minute it engaged by solenoid the clutch and pulley assembly would now be stationary, and burn the serpentine belt up. My serpentine belt is in perfect condition. No marks whatsoever. I guess if the pump did sieze last night, and unsieze by the time I did my test today, would this isolator fail before burning up the serpentine? I personally dont think so.
 
I'm not sure what year they changed but the early years were prone to what they called slugging. Basically liquid freon would settle in the the pump and when it starts it locks up.. the later years had it programmed in to pulse start it. Doesn't really fit your scenario but.......
 
The electro-magnet under the pulley might be getting weak hence allowing the clutch to slip and drag creating heat melting the rubber.
 
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