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My 2005 Yukon XL

Finally bit the bullet and got a full set of Weather Tech floor mats for the Yukon. My wife talked me into it, by ordering them herself. Had hoped to get a cheap set from the JY or on MarketPlace. Guess we are done waiting. These are way to nice for my Yukon.
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Gonna mock up some carpet that I cut out from the JY sometime for the gap between row 2 and row 3. Kinda annoying there isnt a piece there.
 
Pulled the camper from the warehouse to the house today in prep for the season. The Yukon struggles with the 6K-lbs brick at any resemblance of an incline, mainly due to the 3.42 gear set and slightly oversized tires. On the flat its tolerable, 60 to 65 mph and 3rd gear.

I re-connected the ground on my e-fan override system (normally just use in the winter with the plow, but it triggers a CEL) and it performed much better in terms of coolant temp and trans temp, but the power just isnt there on the hill. 2nd gear, 4k rpms and about 45 MPH on the hill. Just north of 210.4K miles today.
 
Been noticing my oil pressure going down again over the last few months. Normal hot idle used to be 30 to 40-PSI. Today we were below 20 at hot idle.
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Im at 5k on my synthetic 5w-30, so I am going to change it tomorrow. I am also going to swap out the pressure sensor with the one from the 1/2-parts truck to see if that changes anything.

Per my understanding, 10-PSI per 1k-revs is sufficient. So technically I am still fine, but noticing the change has me wondering.
 
Keep in mind this gauge is calculated by the ECM, not the actual oil pressure! I have seen so many blown engines because it was too late when that gauge bottomed out and the knocking started.

I would tee into where that sensor goes and run you a mechanical gauge to always have a real reading.

this era of GM engines are known for loss in oil pressure at around 225k+ miles due to a cracked o-ring on the oil pick up tube. GM put a bulletin out on this but didn't make it a recall. but also they are dirty engines too. almost everyone I have talked to that tore into them with high mileage has some amount of sludge build up. My daughters in-laws 2000 burb with a 5.3 we just barley caught it in time. rather than trying to tear into the front to get at the oil pump for the o-ring, I decided to pull the front diff and drop the pan. I found 2-3" of sludge in the pan!! cleaned it all up and threw it back together and oil pressure was back up to normal.

it still sits in my yard, they haven't decided on what they want to do, but I told them we really need to pull the intake and valve covers and clean it out.
 
Keep in mind this gauge is calculated by the ECM, not the actual oil pressure! I have seen so many blown engines because it was too late when that gauge bottomed out and the knocking started.

I would tee into where that sensor goes and run you a mechanical gauge to always have a real reading.

this era of GM engines are known for loss in oil pressure at around 225k+ miles due to a cracked o-ring on the oil pick up tube. GM put a bulletin out on this but didn't make it a recall. but also they are dirty engines too. almost everyone I have talked to that tore into them with high mileage has some amount of sludge build up. My daughters in-laws 2000 burb with a 5.3 we just barley caught it in time. rather than trying to tear into the front to get at the oil pump for the o-ring, I decided to pull the front diff and drop the pan. I found 2-3" of sludge in the pan!! cleaned it all up and threw it back together and oil pressure was back up to normal.

it still sits in my yard, they haven't decided on what they want to do, but I told them we really need to pull the intake and valve covers and clean it out.
I actually had low pressure concerns maybe 2-ish years ago. Lowest i recalled was maybe 25PSI. Dropped the pan and did the o ring and it jumped the pressure back to 40 hot idle. To be honest wasnt alarmed with what i found in the pan when I did that. O-ring was definitly deformed and broke the minute i pulled it out. I think the pics are in this thread somewhere.

I was gonna swap the pressure sensor too. I do want to research an easy mechanical guage. To be honest been thinking of doing this for fuel too.
 
iirc the main issue with plumbing in a mechanical gauge was the ops port on the block is a funky metric or BSP straight thread with a sealing washer they used.
 
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