Does "love it or leave it? apply here? 
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6.5L TD Motorhome repair/repower
- Thread starter 3bals
- Start date
Will L.
Well-Known Member
I feel for you. Especially because this is supposed to be the stress reliever. Too funny about a fire fighter and the torching!
Do you have to smog it? If not then rip the frigging ds4 out and throw it as far as you can along with the pmd problems. Db2 lasts longer,and breaks down once, then its time for a new one. No guessing no headaches, no accidental full throttle episodes.
Seriously hope it gets better soon.
Do you have to smog it? If not then rip the frigging ds4 out and throw it as far as you can along with the pmd problems. Db2 lasts longer,and breaks down once, then its time for a new one. No guessing no headaches, no accidental full throttle episodes.
Seriously hope it gets better soon.
GM Guy
Manual Trans. 2WD Enthusiast
Well, as I see it, you are closing in on the finish line, and are almost there. Dont quit when the finish line is in sight!
The shop called at the end of the day to tell me that it wasn't ready. They had to order a new pressure switch for the AC. I thought all that was replaced when they replaced everything else on the AC, but new parts can fail too I guess.
The cruise didn't work because they said the brake light switch was out of adjustment. Why now all of a sudden?
One of the brake calipers hung up causing the overheated brake issue. Again, when the did the brake job didn't they replace the 15 year old calipers, re surface the rotors and replace the brake line hoses? Apparently they only put in new pads.
So now wait some more.
I'm thinking of getting a large JEEP logo to put on my motorhome. Just Empty Every Pocket or BOAT, Bring On Another Thousand
The cruise didn't work because they said the brake light switch was out of adjustment. Why now all of a sudden?
One of the brake calipers hung up causing the overheated brake issue. Again, when the did the brake job didn't they replace the 15 year old calipers, re surface the rotors and replace the brake line hoses? Apparently they only put in new pads.
So now wait some more.
I'm thinking of getting a large JEEP logo to put on my motorhome. Just Empty Every Pocket or BOAT, Bring On Another Thousand
You need a BOAT to tow behind it and RV camp at a lake... Like a 454 Jet boat or similar gas guzzler BOAT. This way it can at least go through fuel fast enough between breakdowns to keep it fresh!
Again ask them to make sure the AC clutch diode is directly connected to the clutch coil where the pressure switch isn't interrupting the diode. If the switch opens and the diode isn't on the coil it will arc the switch like a spark plug. When I converted mine to R134A they require a high pressure cut out switch in the rear of the R4 compressor. The diode is a white thing 12" back from the compressor in the wiring harness - well I cut the wire close to the clutch for the 'new' switch plug. I assumed the diode was in the compressor plug or coil. WRONG!
Sadly even new car GM factory AC switches fail and leak often.
Again ask them to make sure the AC clutch diode is directly connected to the clutch coil where the pressure switch isn't interrupting the diode. If the switch opens and the diode isn't on the coil it will arc the switch like a spark plug. When I converted mine to R134A they require a high pressure cut out switch in the rear of the R4 compressor. The diode is a white thing 12" back from the compressor in the wiring harness - well I cut the wire close to the clutch for the 'new' switch plug. I assumed the diode was in the compressor plug or coil. WRONG!
Sadly even new car GM factory AC switches fail and leak often.
- Staff
- #306
They ALL fail and leak often, it is just the nature of the beast. Gm DID learn there lesson starting with the GMT-800 body style, and made the low pressure switch control the A/C clutch relay instead of it directly controlling the clutch.Sadly even new car GM factory AC switches fail and leak often.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Wow, nicely done.
Makes me think a support could be made for those outside rockers. Never seen that before though so probably not a problem.
Carnage thread time! Are you rebuilding the engine for another ride?
Even the 6.5 I tore down made "Z's" out of the #8 push rods with a piston seized at TDC so this is an unusual fatigue failure. Perhaps a flaw on the tube where it broke?
Even the 6.5 I tore down made "Z's" out of the #8 push rods with a piston seized at TDC so this is an unusual fatigue failure. Perhaps a flaw on the tube where it broke?
Update. They say that the motorhome is ready to pick up today, although I won't have time to do so until Monday.
They say I owe them $1700 for parts and $1900 for labor, of which they will eat half (labor). All for a brake job that I had on my original punch list. (it seems all they did was replace the pads the first time)
I suggested they eat all the labor. Mostly for all the difficulties we've had since it wasn't done on time and the return trips for repairs.
I'm waiting for a response, yet.
They say I owe them $1700 for parts and $1900 for labor, of which they will eat half (labor). All for a brake job that I had on my original punch list. (it seems all they did was replace the pads the first time)
I suggested they eat all the labor. Mostly for all the difficulties we've had since it wasn't done on time and the return trips for repairs.
I'm waiting for a response, yet.
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
Unforunately, a "brake job" any more only consists of installing new pads. Forget checking disc runout or warpage, let alone turning the rotors, as included in a standard "brake job". Gone are the days of removing and disassembling a caliper, honing it, installing a new piston seal and boot and repacing the slide hardware as part of a "brake job". They're more like hand jobs nowadays.
Here are some pictures of the project.
Turbo blanket
FFM custom bracket I made to relocate it because of the turbo location. There's a pair, left and right.
Boost sensor bracket on custom upper intake.
Engine bay.
Oil cooler lines and wrapped header.
A header flange I had welded on before the exhaust transitioned 3 1/2 to 4in for easier maintenance.
4in exhaust to the back.
5in SS tip
1 of four new brake calipers and lines $$$
Turbo blanket
FFM custom bracket I made to relocate it because of the turbo location. There's a pair, left and right.
Boost sensor bracket on custom upper intake.
Engine bay.
Oil cooler lines and wrapped header.
A header flange I had welded on before the exhaust transitioned 3 1/2 to 4in for easier maintenance.
4in exhaust to the back.
5in SS tip
1 of four new brake calipers and lines $$$
- Staff
- #317
Hope that's a wrap!
Great! How bout a video of it running.
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
Glad to see the old "trombone" exhaust routing with the 3" pipe is a thing of the past! War Wagon has a point, that does look a bit close to the carpeting, would hate to read the saga of the smoking doghouse and how our vacation ended with the motorhome burning on the shoulder of the highway.