Search results

coffee is to remove the zombie out of me. koolaid at work(tasty plus it doesn't need to stay that cold) and beer on the days off or after work.

somebody else from my neck of the woods. Trenton here. welcome :)

I did some hunting around online and found one other possibility. the master might be a cause. the brake might not be releasing all the way. a hair drag on the one side. the best suggestions were either a temp check(IR temp gun) or to see if one wheel drags more after a drive to warm things up.

what was wrong with the original ABS system? did the odd wear start after the replacement?

could it be something like a bad line bend(design flaw) not letter the flow through? or the possibility of the ABS/proportioning valve do the same thing? I does seem odd the wear one side but not get a bad pull from it. do the rears wear the same way?

welcome. the rear seal changed between the 660 block(older design) of the 599 block(new design, shares with the 6.5) the older block has the 2 piece seal. there are a few differences over the years. do you know what year the engine is? post questions in the 6.2 sections, it's under the...

the ssd are nice but the interface is still limited by the ide controller. the other big question is how well do they like the warm/ cold shock. for me tech support is easy. you just gotta know the right people. the other option is the leave the current hdd there and swap the DVD out for a...

I've got w7 on the desktop. I can't say I'm a fan out it. 3x the crap that I never use. my laptop is used like a work truck, simple to use no bells or whistles. the one I'm using now is an older toughbook. it's be 'tested' more that one once for durability.

I need to change/upgrade the hard drive in the laptop. current setup is with xp. It's only has a 1.6ghz processor and about 1.5 gigs of ram. Right now space is the biggest issue, it's only got a 20gig hdd in it. so the big question is, which would be better on the reinstall(larger hdd))...

I agree. SSDD(same sh*t different day)

I think he's referring to a 1990 pickup. is the 6.5(DB2) a copy of the 6.2 wiring wise? there are only 8 wires or so for the engine itself.

Any J code intake will do. they're found on the heavy duty setup.

I may have missed it, what are you using to power the pump? toggle, relay setup, or tapped off something else? just wondering if you let the pump run first it would eliminate the possible drain back issue.

the ground your hunting for doesn't exist anymore. the rad itself was the ground. try running a ground wire right to the sensor body itself.

that fuel dumping valve is actually the valve for the two tanks. it should have 6 lines in total on it. 3 sets of lines(1 supply and 1 return). one from each tank and one set from the engine side. and yes they can leak. it also controls the signal for the fuel gauge.

Will is right. a bad connection cause all sorts of starting a running problem. don't forget for the hydroboost setup to chech the power steering fluid level and belt condition. don't forget to check the rear brakes to for binding or bad return springs.

not hard to move you just need to loosen the 3 bolts holding it. they're a 15mm wrench. just a light nudge will do it.

I was running a stock Gm turbo. There are a few members that are running the HX40 turbo that'll be able to answer your clamp question. I just used a foot or so of stock pipe and it was flex pipe after that.

the down pipe is a hard one to fit, or should I say find a space for it. I ended up running mine down between the inner fender and the firewall.

there is a seal back there. it's where a distributor would be on a gasser. I can't think of what sensor is it there now. it's just a flat round seal. about 1.5 inches in diameter.