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Uneven brake pad wear

Big T

Big T

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Fullerton, CA
After much work on the brakes of my Suburban, including new calipers and pads, I had just accepted the fact that the drivers' side pads wear out faster than the passenger side pads. New calipers ruled out sticking. I now have a new master cyclinder that works great and I can lock up all four wheels, but there's a slight steer to the driver's side in a skid indicating that side is working harder. Always been that way.

So yesterday I was helping my son with a variety of projects on his '94 Suburban. Completed Feed The Beast install, fixed the heater line leak deleting the POS quick disconnect and installed new brake pads and completely flushed the brake fluid. While doing so, observed that the driver's side brake pads had more wear than the passenger side, just like my '99 Suburban. My son was asking why. In said I didn't know. His truck stops normally. Anyone know?

Oh and after doing the FTB mod which was to address a presumed diesel leak there, he still has the diesel leak coming down passenger side of engine. It's dripping off the torque converter housing and the starter. I told him to check all the return lines.
 
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Did you check the bolts and sliders the bolts use? I have found that some aftermarket are different diameters. Calipers new new or rebuilds? I have sent plenty of rebuilds back for this issue as well. Specifically the side that isn't stopping as well is binding up. So look at the passenger side for binding. (Because it's pulling to the driver's side.)
 
Calipers were new and bought to address the uneven wear. They were installed with the silicone grease and new bolts provided. If they're stopping and locking the wheel, how could they be binding? What explains this happening on two separate trucks?

When I went to bleed the RF brakes on my son's, the bleeder itself was rusted close. Fluid just came out the base when loosened. I sent him to NAPA for a new set and siphoned all the old fluid out of the reservoir and cleaned it while he was gone.
 
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Do you drive a lot of curved off ramps ? Coming down the mountain are the direction of curves more to one side? Might be your roads????? Maybe.???
 
could it be something like a bad line bend(design flaw) not letter the flow through? or the possibility of the ABS/proportioning valve do the same thing? I does seem odd the wear one side but not get a bad pull from it. do the rears wear the same way?
 
Today I tested stopping with no hands on the steering wheel and it stops straight.

Lines were all replaced with stainles tubing and braided stainless to the wheels.

It has a new, upgraded per the TSB, proportioning valve. I'm thinking bad design for this to happen exactly the same on two different trucks.
 
Basically, the ABS has never really worked since I bought it from the PO in 2010. PO had it unplugged, which was a sign. I plugged it in and the ABS light came on. I had the dealer pull the code and it showed fault with RF wheel sensor. Replaced it and it worked for a bit, but the light eventually came back. Replaced both RF and LF sensors and not fixed. Took it back to dealer to get code pulled and RF wheel sensor again showing fault. Replaced it and again nothing. Have since replaced the RF bearing, once due to failure, and sensors twice. Replaced LF bearing and sensor once and ABS light persists. I have several threads here on this, begging for help, but no luck. I've got a lot on my plate. The main braking system is a priority. I'd like to have the ABS working, but it's like on the D list of priorities.

Uneven brake pad wear has been there since I owned the truck and has persisted over 3 sets of calipers, including a new set. I'm thinking it's something with the old master cylinder.
 
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I'm wondering if it's a design issue. Maybe the brake line on one side is longer or more bends etc. and reacts differently
 
I did some hunting around online and found one other possibility. the master might be a cause. the brake might not be releasing all the way. a hair drag on the one side. the best suggestions were either a temp check(IR temp gun) or to see if one wheel drags more after a drive to warm things up.
 
I just replaced the master and I do notice improvement in stopping power. I need to get an IR temp gun.
 
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