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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

Summit has always had amazing customer service, support, and never once heard of a person with warranty fight with them.

About amazon- there is amazon warehouses where they buy, markup and resell stuff. But the majority of the sales are from people just like ebay. You can open an Amazon “store”, list your stuff and sell it. Often you’ll see one store list something for $200 free shipping, then list same item $190 and $15 shipping. Then another one for 180 and $40 shipping. Because some people want lowest sale price no matter shipping. Notice your amazon prime doesn’t mean everything is always shipped free? This is why.
So you could set up your store and name it “Power Master Starters” and make another one called “Power Master Alternators”. And if you’re business is located in one of the many countries not agreeing with US patent office- nothing they can do about it.
So buying off Amazon is not some secure thing.
 
2005 Honda Accord Oil Leak. After installing the VTEC Solenoid, the leak persists. So I made several efforts to clean up the engine and observe:

IMG_4084.jpegIMG_4082.jpeg

Top center at the bottom of the yellow zip tie on the cables looks to be the ultimate source of my leak. It’s coming from the corner of the valve cover. Area around the VTEC solenoid to the left is now dry. What leak I have is coming down both sides of that rear corner of the engine. New FelPro gasket set ordered off of Amazon.
 
Yep. I’ve learned my lesson buying higher priced stuff off Amazon. I’ll still do minor things like gaskets and what not but after purchasing a $1000 PC for it to work perfectly fine for a week and then go so bananas that the manufacturer tech support with phone conversations and them remoteing into it we’re scratching their heads. Luckily the return to amazon for a refund went smoothly. Never again will I do that. I started researching online of the Amazon horror stories about expensive things being returned only for them to decline a refund on top of their policy to destroy the item leaving the customers at a loss of both a product and their money.
 
Back when I originally ordered the 4” Diamond Eye exhaust kit from Summit. I had called their customer service number with questions about which kit I needed (no listing for a crew cab). The guy was very helpful and knowledgeable. Even found the one I needed sitting in a warehouse here in Texas. When I placed the order, not long after that you couldn’t find any more of those kits anywhere!
 
dbrannon79 said:
Yep. I’ve learned my lesson buying higher priced stuff off Amazon. I’ll still do minor things like gaskets and what not but after purchasing a $1000 PC for it to work perfectly fine for a week and then go so bananas that the manufacturer tech support with phone conversations and them remoteing into it we’re scratching their heads. Luckily the return to amazon for a refund went smoothly. Never again will I do that. I started researching online of the Amazon horror stories about expensive things being returned only for them to decline a refund on top of their policy to destroy the item leaving the customers at a loss of both a product and their money.
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If not resolved, I go for the credit card used and file a dispute there.
I got bit by Amazon's extended warranty once. It's a joke and waste of money.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Back when I originally ordered the 4” Diamond Eye exhaust kit from Summit. I had called their customer service number with questions about which kit I needed (no listing for a crew cab). The guy was very helpful and knowledgeable. Even found the one I needed sitting in a warehouse here in Texas. When I placed the order, not long after that you couldn’t find any more of those kits anywhere!
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That's a shame. I'll be looking for a stainless 4" exhaust, the aluminized is gone. if I ever get to work on the 1994
 
Welp, new powermaster starter and new bolts are ordered. should arrive sometime next Friday according to Summit. I went with the ARP bolts this time though I will end up having to modify the one that has the block weld and heli-coil installed. the PO that had the repair done didn't get the thread repair in far enough that it bottoms out on the knurling. the last time I replaced bolts I ended up taking a thread die and adding more threads to it for the bolt to fully seat on the starter.

I am hoping with this starter, it's a better fit and less stress on the rear bracket. my current one has a slight bend in it from the starter torque. even with the GM bolts I used at the time the diameter of the bolt to the ID of the hole in the starter allowed some movement that apparently allowed to starter to slightly pivot thus giving the rear bracket a slight bend. I may look at how these bolts fit into the new starter and see if there is anything I can do to prevent that if needed.

I have another bracket to use, I am considering taking this bracket to work and having my buddy in the welding shop add a tiny gusset to help keep it from bending. when I first discovered the block repair shortly after I bought the truck I also found a make-shift bracket that was fabbed up which was wedged between the starter motor and the block, it used one of the bolts on the oil pan to hold it there against the block and up against the starter motor. it made it solid where it couldn't move. I will explore what options I have and take some pics of everything once the new starter arrives and I get the take it all apart. anything I can do the keep this engine running till I can do something with this donor engine or locate a replacement with my diminishing budgets LOL.
 
I was wondering whether my front diff was engaged in 4WD as I was not feeling binding while turning sharply on dry pavement. Well the stump pulling effort proved that it’s working. 4Lo in reverse to try and snap the stump loose and the front tires were digging holes:
IMG_4092.jpegIMG_4093.jpeg
 
dbrannon79 said:
LOL for a minute I thought that green brush in the fence on the last pic was your "puff puff pass" plant growing nicely!!
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Yeah need to talk to neighbor and ask if I can pull those while doing the fence. Wish they had their Kubota working as he had a box scraper that worked awesome for grading it smooth. I’ll need to put in a slope away from the home and away from the fence, but we’ll also be installing underground drain pipes. Just too much water, 90% from the street, going through there.
 
it's the same way in our alley behind the house. anytime we get a good rain, all the runoff water comes in the form of a rushing creek flowing down the alley straight into our back yard! the city thought they were smart by installing a drain collection area at the other end of the alley to let the field across the way drain into. as a new housing subdivision was being built in the old field. that collection area is straight across from the end of the alley and overflows every time on a good rain! we end up with a sort of "moat" around the back of the house. I have been trying to come up with ideas on how to stop the water from entering the yard and continue on further down the alley.
 
Our issue is the street is zoned rural with no sidewalks or curbs and the home sits below the level of the street. It comes into play during heavy rain years like this past winter. Solution will be to install a wall and fencing with grading outside the wall to keep the water from the street on the street. Rest that hits the property will be addressed by drains and subsurface drain pipes taking it out the back of the property.
 
Big T said:
Our issue is the street is zoned rural with no sidewalks or curbs and the home sits below the level of the street. It comes into play during heavy rain years like this past winter. Solution will be to install a wall and fencing with grading outside the wall to keep the water from the street on the street. Rest that hits the property will be addressed by drains and subsurface drain pipes taking it out the back of the property.
Click to expand...
most of our neighborhood is like this as well too. our next door neighbor's foundation had slowly settled over the years to where the slab is at or slightly below ground level. when it rains hard he gets water in through the walls. ours has maybe a 4" rise over the ground level. one year we had such a big rain fall that water did make it up and came into the wall in one corner of the house. I literally had to get a sump pump outside that end of the house to pump out the "mote" into the street.
 
dbrannon79 said:
most of our neighborhood is like this as well too. our next door neighbor's foundation had slowly settled over the years to where the slab is at or slightly below ground level. when it rains hard he gets water in through the walls. ours has maybe a 4" rise over the ground level. one year we had such a big rain fall that water did make it up and came into the wall in one corner of the house. I literally had to get a sump pump outside that end of the house to pump out the "mote" into the street.
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Fortunately we have a raised foundation with crawl space that’s pretty substantial. So we aren’t susceptible to flooding, but I still want to keep the water away from the foundation.
 
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