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Waterless Coolant

Just keep making vehicle payments to a bank account. Take your repair and mod money out of that account. You will easily be able to see how much money you are saving. Or not saving.
 
FellowTraveler said:
However, you save tens of thousands $$$$$$$$ by not having to buy a new or near new vehicle.
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n8in8or said:
That's what I keep telling my other half :D
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That was how the Burb managed to get a new lease on life when the 599 block needed replacement. I showed the costs of a P-400, costs of a new(er) Burb, costs of converting the new(er) Burb to a DMax, the maintenance costs of each motor, and that we would have to start over in terms of figuring out what the PO had done to the truck. The spreadsheet made the decision for her :D All I need to do is keep tamping down the IDI's noise as that was one of her requirements . . . o_O
 
I think I may have thrown her under the bus here... She is very trusting and doesn't question my truck decisions, but it certainly doesn't hurt to do a little preventive justification now and then :D
 
JayTheCPA said:
All I need to do is keep tamping down the IDI's noise as that was one of her requirements . . . o_O
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I can sure as heck understand that!

I'm tired of listening to the clattery old whoar myself. Considering giving up more power to shut it up more. I'd implement the preinjection in the program if there was to make it work (hardware limitations prevent it).

Its been getting louder and feeling less powerful lately. Probably time to drop the injectors into the ultrasonic cleaner again.....

Heck, I half wish the optimizer would die so I can swap something in or just junk the truck all together.

Alas, I am tied to it financially for at least on other 5 years......gotta get my money back out of it in use!

:)
 
great white said:
I'd implement the preinjection in the program if there was to make it work (hardware limitations prevent it).
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There is a thread on split injection (http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/split-shot-injectors.37071/) and personally will love to get more details (even if it is why this will not work). IIRC, I found a post on a tuner site which had a deep-dive into GM's OBD-II programming for the 6.5 and it was noted that pre-injection was present in the code, but not used.
 
JayTheCPA said:
There is a thread on split injection (http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/split-shot-injectors.37071/) and personally will love to get more details (even if it is why this will not work). IIRC, I found a post on a tuner site which had a deep-dive into GM's OBD-II programming for the 6.5 and it was noted that pre-injection was present in the code, but not used.
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Yup, I've seen the code. There lots of other leftover "bits" in there also. Interesting fact: once I clean mine up a bit, all throttle "dead pedal" events and things like unexplained "fishbite" events went away. There's a couple coding dead ends and strange loops in there. All I can figure is it was "gumming up the works".

The injection system isn't mechanically capable of pre injection, nor does it have (IMHO) enough resolution to implement it. All I can figure is gm was fooling around with it and didn't implement until the lb7 was released with its DI chambers and higher injection pressures (and more resolution over the injectors). Or maybe they did try something and it was a dead end on an IDI. Probably will never know....I never pursued it further than a " hey, look at this" moment.

Sorry to say, the quoted thread is a dead end IMHO.
 
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Ya know, when we were playing with small volume constant propane feeds, the ignition event did start to happen a hair sooner and quieted down the clatter a lot. Kinda scared me actually, I was thinking we were flame fronting the incoming diesel, but there was no evidence other than the lack of noise. Took enough propane to let the noise come back to see the propane pay for itself, so we didn't spend but an hour or two on it.
Going to the oxygen rich chamber, well that got noisy real quick, somewhat CRANKSHAFT ON THE FLOOR CLATTERY at times.:D
 
EVANS coolant does not shed heat as well as EGW so it is imperative to either go to a larger thicker 1.25" x 2 cored radiator or seal all the air gaps between the radiator support and the radiator while sealing is time consuming it's much cheaper than a new radiator.

When I examined the gap I was surprised to see under the upper radiator shroud where it goes over the top of the radiator is wide open then on both sides of the radiator the gap continues right down to the lower radiator support.

I used high temp adhesive backed foam strips to seal the gaps once done all air pulled into the radiator by the fan or forced fed via forward motion goes through the radiator core now which pulls the extra heat from the EVANS coolant.

On the other side of using EVANS there are a few ways to get the coolant up to proper operating temps and stay there it is a restrictor placed inside the water pump to thermostat housing on dual stat setups.
 
For those curious about running a dual t stat housing with a db2, I am running my factory cooling system on my 2000 with a db2. I made my own throttle bracket that was originally a universal carb throttle bracket. Cut, weld and bent and it works without issue on my truck. These are about the best pictures I have of it.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
On the topic of EVANS flash point, the weak point in any later model GMT400 cooling system are the two plastic heater hose tee's and GM placed them just above the turbocharger too so I've been looking metal tee's to replace the plastic one's.
 
FellowTraveler said:
On the topic of EVANS flash point, the weak point in any later model GMT400 cooling system are the two plastic heater hose tee's and GM placed them just above the turbocharger too so I've been looking metal tee's to replace the plastic one's.
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JMJNet pointed me to discounthydraulichose <dot> for a permanent cure: http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/help-need-t-connector-options.37644/#post-491975

Decided to go with the mix-and-match 'T' so that I could preserve the Burb's different hose sizes.
 
RI Chevy Silveradoman said:
I wonder if this Evans waterless coolant will work OK in a Duramax? I am overdue for a fluid change.
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I suspect FERM could chime in on this.
When I did the switch it was during a cooling system overhaul after the front heater core seam gave way I suspected a blown head gasket or cracked whatever but it was just the core all new silicone hoses, thermal wrap on hoses, new radiator, water pump, GMT med truck cooling fan clutch and EVANS and couldn't be happier w/the results.
 
I don't see any reason to swap out coolants for the DURAMAX. If the cooling system is clean and working properly(with the exception of some LLY's that still need updating), they don't have any problems.
 
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