Waterless Coolant

[THEFERMANATOR]

I thought the coolant should be changed at 6 years or 150,000 miles?

when i said swap out, i meant to change from using a quality dex cool. 5 years or 150k miles is gms reccomendation for change intervals.

 

[RI Chevy Silveradoman]

Is dexcool better, or this new stuff. Would I do any harm if I drained and switched, as I am due for a fluid change.

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

I've had no problems with dexcool, and no plans to change.

 

[JayTheCPA]

Is dexcool better, or this new stuff. Would I do any harm if I drained and switched, as I am due for a fluid change.

It is a matter of perspective.

The glycol based coolant is less expensive and does need changing.

The waterless coolant is more expensive and (barring contamination) never needs changing.


For a more direct comparison to a DMax, I switched my TDI rig over to Evans and did not notice any changes in the cooling characteristics, even when towing.

 

[RI Chevy Silveradoman]

Thanks for all of the info.

 

[handcannon]

What about the water pump lubricant that the green stuff supposedly has that apparently needs refreshed/replaced periodically? How does the Evans approach this situation?

Don

 

[ak diesel driver]

I've never changed the antifreeze on an engine just because the "maintaince schedule" said it was time. They do make dip swabs to check how it's doing. A friend of mine owns a shop and we checked mine with well over 200k on it and it passed no problem.

 

[NVW]

I change mine when I have a problem.

 

[JayTheCPA]

What about the water pump lubricant that the green stuff supposedly has that apparently needs refreshed/replaced periodically? How does the Evans approach this situation?

Good question. Seeing as waterless is common in big-rigs, perhaps do a comparison of their water pump design to the automotive sector?

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

You will find that big rigs have coolant filters on them, and most coolant filters come pre charged with an additive package to extend the coolants life. Many times it will have lubricant and an SCA additive in it(for green anti-freeze, I believe ELC's don't need the SCA).

 

[Will L.]

The filters are not filtering anything. All the are is nitrate tablets like the tablet floater in your swimming pool. The nitrate is consumed because of electrolysis on the "wet sleeved" engines creating so much static electricity leading to pitting. You cant get a good enough ground to those sleeves like a regular block. Then the industry learned people will spend the money thinking its worth it for all engines, most have too high nitrate and actually plug radiators from it. A little knowledge being more dangerous thing. Like AK Driver said, use the test strips. That will let you know when to spend the money.

As far as needing a lubricant for the water pump, i dont think so. Water keeps the seal wet and cool- no worries. Ive ran cars years on just water since there is no freeze concearn here, common in Vegas. No problems. Also consider industrial plants that run only water, no lubricant is used and millions of gallons that pump all the time. Maybe a longer life from additives, but idk

 

[Burning oil]

From what Ive seen the seals on a water pump are just a ceramic seal. Swimming pool pumps are almost identical (and I bet you could find one to replace in a auto water pump if needed) As we all know swimming pools pump millions of gallons in their lifetime with just water. They don't get near the temps of an engine though, but I don't think thats a factor?

 

[Will L.]

No, the temp has no effect. The water pumps we use at work are rated for dealing with steam in the system up to 400f. Plain old ceramic. Then a buns wiper seal.

Yes you can rebuild your water pump. Just take the seal and bushing to a place like bearing belt and chain co. For matching up. It's usually just convenience to get a new pump. Shops have book time to swap water pump, not rebuild them. It takes a lot of time to wear the impellers. That's why so many places sell primarily rebuilt water pumps.

 

[FellowTraveler]

The filters are not filtering anything. All the are is nitrate tablets like the tablet floater in your swimming pool. The nitrate is consumed because of electrolysis on the "wet sleeved" engines creating so much static electricity leading to pitting. You cant get a good enough ground to those sleeves like a regular block. Then the industry learned people will spend the money thinking its worth it for all engines, most have too high nitrate and actually plug radiators from it. A little knowledge being more dangerous thing. Like AK Driver said, use the test strips. That will let you know when to spend the money.

As far as needing a lubricant for the water pump, i dont think so. Water keeps the seal wet and cool- no worries. Ive ran cars years on just water since there is no freeze concearn here, common in Vegas. No problems. Also consider industrial plants that run only water, no lubricant is used and millions of gallons that pump all the time. Maybe a longer life from additives, but idk

Another consideration is aftermarket accessories and their wiring then any flow over the battery case or radiator fluid will indicate you have issues on wet batteries it's the acid, dirt and whatever allowing the flow of power if there are no cracks in the case or loose terminals all this adds to electrolysis issues.

As EVANS does they claim their product does not allow electrolysis to take hold so I'm guessing its great in sleeved blocks.

 

[JayTheCPA]

As EVANS does they claim their product does not allow electrolysis to take hold . . .

Begs the question of whether it is conductive.

 

[FellowTraveler]

Begs the question of whether it is conductive.

I suspect, any flow of electricity within/through the radiator could corrode everything from within, the simple test is a multimeter one probe in the coolant the other on a battery terminal.

Aftermarket electrical accessories can cause major problems with cooling corrosion if not properly wired.

 

[Will L.]

The moving water creates enough to do damage. Yes if you can read an electrical difference, add a ground wire to it.

 

[FellowTraveler]

The moving water creates enough to do damage. Yes if you can read an electrical difference, add a ground wire to it.

This the best way to go.

 

[dangerousdave]

http://www.norosion.com/evanstest.htm
I Still have the Evans running, but I was surfing for any competitor that would be cheaper to work with and found this. Not very encouraging but they use pressurized systems. I $tay with Evans for now. The Burb just takes so darn much coolant though.

 

[FellowTraveler]

http://www.norosion.com/evanstest.htm
I Still have the Evans running, but I was surfing for any competitor that would be cheaper to work with and found this. Not very encouraging but they use pressurized systems. I $tay with Evans for now. The Burb just takes so darn much coolant though.

Marketing ploy to demonize competitor IMO. I've measured each cylinder temp and there was never any wild crazy temp spread and the Burb ran slightly warmer with coolant temps not rising to temp's it did w/EGW mix.