• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Waterless Coolant

The main difference that I can see is the passageway in the passenger side of the pump. Oh and of course the Hummer pump has the second small outlet on top.
 
FellowTraveler said:
I'd like to know what if any difference there is w/pumps, my Burb came with all the cooling mods Heath mentioned to include the HO pump I just added the bypass restrictor which I'm trying to figure was the right thing, or?
Click to expand...
I've read about the bypass restrictor, but not enough to know exactly what it is. Would you mind elaborating?
 
n8in8or said:
I've read about the bypass restrictor, but not enough to know exactly what it is. Would you mind elaborating?
Click to expand...

Generally the restrictor is the bypass hose adapter at the water pump drilled with a 3/8" to 5/16" +- hole. I made a restrictor with a 3/8" hole to place inside the 1" ID bypass hose, another way would be to block off bypass completely and use modified thermostats drilled with 3/8" holes x 3 on each stat in dual stat setup which equals to just over the 1" ID of the pump bypass. Consider I have dual heater cores which flow always and the is a restrictor in that too.

I understand the concept of warming up quicker w/pump bypass but trying to get a handle on making the most use of the radiator too as hot coolant gets dumped into the water pump intake which is generally the cold side.

Since I'm keeping the EVANS w/zero psi cap which enhances boil off of any water that may enter the system via temp change venting as steam to the surge tank I need to figure if the bypass restrictor is best when using EVANS.
 
FellowTraveler said:
Interesting your old pump has 2 hose adapters I know one is the bypass how is the other one routed?
Click to expand...

Yeah I'm not sure either. Since that pump came off a Hummer application they must have something unique in that cooling system. Maybe someone like Will L that has a Hummer can elaborate?
 
FellowTraveler said:
Generally the restrictor is the bypass hose adapter at the water pump drilled with a 3/8" to 5/16" +- hole. I made a restrictor with a 3/8" hole to place inside the 1" ID bypass hose, another way would be to block off bypass completely and use modified thermostats drilled with 3/8" holes x 3 on each stat in dual stat setup which equals to just over the 1" ID of the pump bypass. Consider I have dual heater cores which flow always and the is a restrictor in that too.

I understand the concept of warming up quicker w/pump bypass but trying to get a handle on making the most use of the radiator too as hot coolant gets dumped into the water pump intake which is generally the cold side.

Since I'm keeping the EVANS w/zero psi cap which enhances boil off of any water that may enter the system via temp change venting as steam to the surge tank I need to figure if the bypass restrictor is best when using EVANS.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the info. I think I'll run it without the restrictor at first because I do short drives between home and work, but if it runs warmer on trips then I'll try putting one in there.
 
.187 wider port on the optimizer show potential for more flow. I wish we could see these going through a flow meter. When I tear mine off I might have to do some fabricating and some experimenting. So much to ponder.

I really wish these pumps were easier on/off like the old school water pumps, I'd tear into it a lot sooner. The redesign works good for you guys in the pickups, but there is no set answer for the hmmwv/hummers. AM General still thinks 230* all day long is ok, yet has short life...:(
 
Will L. said:
.187 wider port on the optimizer show potential for more flow. I wish we could see these going through a flow meter. When I tear mine off I might have to do some fabricating and some experimenting. So much to ponder.

I really wish these pumps were easier on/off like the old school water pumps, I'd tear into it a lot sooner. The redesign works good for you guys in the pickups, but there is no set answer for the hmmwv/hummers. AM General still thinks 230* all day long is ok, yet has short life...:(
Click to expand...
Yeah I find it interesting that the "better" one has a narrower passage, but perhaps it works better to have higher velocity on that side rather than flow to shove the water to the back of the block on that side? Just spitballin' here. When I take the pump off my 97 when I take it out of the truck I'll look at that one too and compare.

If you do decide to do some testing, I'm just holding onto the Hummer pump as a spare, so I'd be happy to send it to you as a tester if you want.
 
Here is the reason the water pumps were re-designed Heath article. This would be why the passages are different sizes. This even affected 350 gas engines in 1995.

The bypass restriction does the same thing the bypass blocker does on the single t stat system bottom of the thermostat. This is one reason the single t-stat system is better. Maybe worse as the block gets more cold shock rather than an even temp.
 
image.jpg
The driver side connects to the crossover. The passenger connects to the heater core, and when off closes flow all the way. The other end of the heater hose comes back to the crossover to the passenger side of the thermostat (left in the picture). image.jpg image.jpg
The crossover is not the same single stat as in pickups. I'm thinking about redoing my whole set if I knew what crossover to get with the db2 as long as it isn't taller by more than 1". Thinking about building my own crossover if I have to. Then I could achieve the "balanced flow".
 
I see you put the air conditioner were the Army puts the huge generator. Interesting!

Is that the motor in your avatar picture?
 
Will L. said:
View attachment 44267
The driver side connects to the crossover. The passenger connects to the heater core, and when off closes flow all the way. The other end of the heater hose comes back to the crossover to the passenger side of the thermostat (left in the picture). [
The crossover is not the same single stat as in pickups. I'm thinking about redoing my whole set if I knew what crossover to get with the db2 as long as it isn't taller by more than 1". Thinking about building my own crossover if I have to. Then I could achieve the "balanced flow".
Click to expand...

Hey there Wiil, thanks for the input. I'm seriously considering the DB2 or moose pump conversion and would need to figure what style stat crossover housing would be best using the DB2 styled injection pump perhaps custom would be better.
 
For you I would do the single that WarWagon is using, his system is alive still in that heat. Only reason I'm not 100* on it is idk height. On db2 if your DMV doesn't shut you down for it I would do it in a second. Let me count the number of problems with my fuel system- 0 done. No ds4=no pmd.
 
Will L. said:
For you I would do the single that WarWagon is using, his system is alive still in that heat. Only reason I'm not 100* on it is idk height. On db2 if your DMV doesn't shut you down for it I would do it in a second. Let me count the number of problems with my fuel system- 0 done. No ds4=no pmd.
Click to expand...

Um, No... I am a horrible example as fuel bugs love heat. Finding good DB2 pumps is difficult. I have burned up or finally worn out several high mile DB2 pumps. When they run they run well, but, need adjustment every 6 months. Regardless the LeroyDiesel.com PMD heatsink and USA extension cable lasted 4 years and is still going as far as I know. The DS4 always started easier than the DB2 for me. This disclaimer over I prefer the DB2 over the DS4 as there isn't any fishbite, if it starts it runs till it's out of fuel, no PMD...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top