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My Water to Air intercooler install

I appreciate you looking out for me Leroy.

I got the cooler insulated. The brackets and upper intake are painted and drying. Gonna call it a day and get some dinner. image.jpgimage.jpg
 
Hmmm well I wasn't too concerned since it's "just" an intercooler but i guess it would get some good heat cycles. I was just planning on using regular antifreeze. I do have some of my Rotella ELC Ultra left so I could use that. Thoughts/suggestions?
 
Looking sweeet.

What are you going to run for coolant?

70% water 30% what coolant, and water wetter???? Or 50/50 ?????

One thing neat about W/A coolers is when low boost the air flow cools the water relative to high boost so rolling hills kind of normalizes the intake cooler during cycling loads. Are you going to run a tank for volume? How are you going to turn or or trigger the circulation pump and cooling fans?
 
I have no idea what is best. I googled after I posted and saw a blurb about water / methanol mix?????

I guess it depend on your climate and usage. If you plumb in a quick and easy drain for changing it then I guess you could optimize it for summer/ winter (easier than the engine/radiator).
 
schiker said:
Looking sweeet.

What are you going to run for coolant?

70% water 30% what coolant, and water wetter???? Or 50/50 ?????

One thing neat about W/A coolers is when low boost the air flow cools the water relative to high boost so rolling hills kind of normalizes the intake cooler during cycling loads. Are you going to run a tank for volume? How are you going to turn or or trigger the circulation pump and cooling fans?
Click to expand...
That's an interesting comment about the airflow cooling it when not under boost.

I live in Michigan so whatever coolant I use will be mixed at 50/50 so it doesn't freeze in the winter. Will knows a lot about antifreeze/coolant so I'm sure he'll have a good idea of what to run. I'm not planning on running a tank. Real estate is precious on the Tahoe. If I ever run a tank, it will probably be hooked up to a water/meth injection system.

I'm going to run the fans and pump on a toggle switch and basically let it run all the time during the summer months and leave it off during the winter months. That's the thought anyway, we'll see what happens in actuality. I have thought about running the fans and pump on separate switches so I can run just the pump in the winter if I want to. I'm worried about the fans icing up since they'll be under the truck. I have no idea if I'll want any of it running in the winter or not.
 
I'm not sure what on this, I was wandering what mfr recommends or what general consensus is of experienced owners. I would guess just a bottle of water wetter then 50/50 antifreeze and water mix.

I'm thinking you should test for static electricity being generated and ground out components as needed to slow electrolysis corrosion as much as possible. I am 99.99% in love with this idea. Only thing that scares me is heat exchanger failure allowing leakage into the intake causing hydrolock.
 
Will L. said:
I'm not sure what on this, I was wandering what mfr recommends or what general consensus is of experienced owners. I would guess just a bottle of water wetter then 50/50 antifreeze and water mix.

I'm thinking you should test for static electricity being generated and ground out components as needed to slow electrolysis corrosion as much as possible. I am 99.99% in love with this idea. Only thing that scares me is heat exchanger failure allowing leakage into the intake causing hydrolock.
Click to expand...
Hmmmmm, how do I test for static electricity? Just a VOM looking for small amounts of voltage between the component and ground?
 
Engine is buttoned back up. I'm glad Matt's oil seperator thread had been brought back because it was the perfect time to install that. The engine bay is a bit more cluttered now but it's functional. I haven't started running the water hoses yet because I'm still waiting to get the Cadillac water pump. I should hopefully have that mid-week and then I can finish this. I'm going to install the radiator now so that is ready to go.image.jpg image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg
 
Yup,
Just a multimeter checking for small stay current. Put the ground wire to negative of battery post, positive to the individual components in the system, (also good to check cooling system while at it).

How you mounted the heat exchanger bolted to the block with the brackets you should not have any in that, the "fix" is to ground out anything that would pick up current.

I learned about it about 20 years ago in a fleet running the gmt400 trucks about 100,000 miles yearly. We did a 13 month test on 5 trucks. Started out as 6 trucks, one crashed, and supposed to be 1 year, but couldn't cycle them out till a month late. The difference in the corrosion in thermostat housing, heater core, and radiator were instantly obvious. We didn't have anything fail by then, but it is enough to make me make sure my radiator will always have a good ground, even the plastic tank ones will get a ground wire to the metal fin support. We have no humidity here, idk how much that affects things, but always wondered.

My 01 suburban has 205,000 on it, bought it with 30,000 on it and swapped dexcool out to green, and added ground wire at about 36,000. Just cracked plastic side tank in it. Had no corrosion in it, other than cracked tank radiator looked brand new. I never changed green the coolant, but I did drop in a nitrate tablet at around 150,000 miles after using a test strip.
 
Radiator and fans are mounted. Now I just need that pump and I can finish this thing up. image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg
 
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Did you have to loose the CDR?

Do you guys think a IC made with a functioning A/C evaporator core would work. Kind of like a dual air Suburban, but instead second evap as the IC.
 
Burning oil said:
Did you have to loose the CDR?

Do you guys think a IC made with a functioning A/C evaporator core would work. Kind of like a dual air Suburban, but instead second evap as the IC.
Click to expand...
I still have the CDR. I turned it around so it's pointing towards the firewall and it's hooked to the oil catch can with Gates multi-purpose hose.

I would think that would put a huge burden on the air conditioning system exposing the evaporator to 200*+ air. However, if you had a complete second system, that would be a really cold intercooler...of course any power gains from the extra cold air would be negated by the extra load on the engine from the second compressor.
 
I was thinking about the a/c thing as well. I don't know how bad the load would be compared to the gains.

With my rig and temps out here the issue isn't massive power loss from high iat, rather having to take my foot of it and slow from keeping up with traffic to getting inline with all the semi trucks to keep from over heating issues. On colder days (winter) or days with rain I can run up the hills passing traffic.

I think you would have to do the math on btu exchange rate. Find out the btu rating on the heat exchanger and what the output of ac coil- if it's the same btu AT AIR FLOW EXCHANGE then it would work.

Like n8in8or said you will draw more power from the engine compared to a little water pump and fan, but my guess is it could be worth it.

At work we use coolant chillers where coolant doing the same thing he is doing here goes through an ac system where the evaporator is a submerged in the coolant and it extracts the heat from the coolant amazingly fast and will keep it into sub zero temps no problem. With out the chiller the coldest it can get is 95.
 
Figuring out gain/losses is beyond my pay grade.
I had thought about a second comp also. On a single comp system running like dual air a solenoid valve could be put in to turn refrigerant on/off.
Seems like you could run something like that only when needed like going up mountains? But then there's the catch, how do you shed that heat and not put it right on the radiator?
Anyway something to think about, when you have one built let me know ;)
 
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