• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

I'm back with a keeper. .

Won't work. Differences between 94 down and 95 up stampings for both the floor pan and inner door panels. The seats for sure will NOT bolt in because of differences between the transmission/driveshaft hump and seat mounting point location/configuration (Experience, already tried retro-fitting 96 60/40 into 94 bench, no-go without EXTENSIVE modifications to the seat frames, same true of the bucket seats). The inner door skin stampings are different and you can't easily swap the door panels as mounting points for sure and most likely switch mountings are different as well as door handle configuration.

Need to use a diesel dash for the WTS and WIF lights as well as the diesel tach, but I'm not sure if all the harness plugs are the same between 95 up and 94 down as well as pin locations, etc.
 
Regarding the wheel spacers, Yes, 2" will equalize the front / rear stance. Check with Leroy as he is / was working on a group buy. After I installed mine (OE tires), the truck was no longer 'squirmy' on rutted roads (which around here is any blacktop more than a year old).

Given the upcoming changes in tire size, my vote is to wait on the spacers and make sure everything else fits / works wheel & tire wise. If it looks like spacers will work after all the other tire mods, then can easily insttall spacers at the next tire rotation.

While on the topic of wheel / tires, if there is any interest in beach-running, wider tires are not your friend. Had met several OBX locals that at first were on the wide-tire bandwagon until they repeatedly dug themselves-in axle deep whenever they went out to fish along the surf. When they switched to tall & narrow tires, they no longer got stuck.


Toward jacking up the truck, have seen it done with three floor (hydraulic) jacks: one for the rear pumpkin and two for the front axle. Personally, I'd also have stands under the axles and ready for a 'catch' just in case a seal on one of the hydraulic jacks decides to let go an unopportune time.
 
Husker6.5 said:
Won't work. Differences between 94 down and 95 up stampings for both the floor pan and inner door panels. The seats for sure will NOT bolt in because of differences between the transmission/driveshaft hump and seat mounting point location/configuration (Experience, already tried retro-fitting 96 60/40 into 94 bench, no-go without EXTENSIVE modifications to the seat frames, same true of the bucket seats). The inner door skin stampings are different and you can't easily swap the door panels as mounting points for sure and most likely switch mountings are different as well as door handle configuration.

Need to use a diesel dash for the WTS and WIF lights as well as the diesel tach, but I'm not sure if all the harness plugs are the same between 95 up and 94 down as well as pin locations, etc.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input. After sleeping on it not sure it would be worth the work and after your reply definatley not worth it. I am just going to fix up my interior best I can.
 
JayTheCPA said:
Regarding the wheel spacers, Yes, 2" will equalize the front / rear stance. Check with Leroy as he is / was working on a group buy. After I installed mine (OE tires), the truck was no longer 'squirmy' on rutted roads (which around here is any blacktop more than a year old).

Given the upcoming changes in tire size, my vote is to wait on the spacers and make sure everything else fits / works wheel & tire wise. If it looks like spacers will work after all the other tire mods, then can easily insttall spacers at the next tire rotation.

While on the topic of wheel / tires, if there is any interest in beach-running, wider tires are not your friend. Had met several OBX locals that at first were on the wide-tire bandwagon until they repeatedly dug themselves-in axle deep whenever they went out to fish along the surf. When they switched to tall & narrow tires, they no longer got stuck.


Toward jacking up the truck, have seen it done with three floor (hydraulic) jacks: one for the rear pumpkin and two for the front axle. Personally, I'd also have stands under the axles and ready for a 'catch' just in case a seal on one of the hydraulic jacks decides to let go an unopportune time.
Click to expand...

Here in MB no vehicles are allowed on the beaches as far as I've heard. Not really into surf side cruising anyway. I can understand why wider tires would end up sinking in and get stuck. Good thoughts on the matter though it's something a lot of people would never think of or consider.
 
Okay have a problem with her. Yesterday I wanted to install my bazooka tube. There are wires already ran from the PO. The power wire was disconnected in the engine bay. I connect the wire. Then go to start her up and the starter gets stuck and won't disengage. By the time I disco the wires on the battery the wires are smoking hot and melted the side mount on the batter on the driver side. I buy another battery and leave the power wire from he system not connected. No problem the rest of yesterday. Well today first start of the day starter sticks again and now I need another battery. By the time I can unhook the positive lead melted yet again.

My truck has a think 8 or 10 guage wire running for positive post to positive post on boy batteries. Is that normal?
 
The cable from (+) to (+) between the batteries should be at the very smallest 4 Gauge, preferably 2 Gauge and optimally 0 Gauge. You have a bigger problem, your starter is toast, it has an internal dead short. That is why it "hangs up" and melts battery posts. Alternately, your bendix drive in the starter is jamming somehow and causing the starter to stall which in turn also causes an extremely high current draw through the battery cables, armature, brushes and windings that could melt the posts off of your battery pretty quickly. Has nothing to do with the power wire for your Bazooka Bass Tube, that just happened to be a random happenstance, not cause and effect. You will keep destroying batteries until you address the shorting situation.
 
Last edited:
Husker6.5 is 100%.

You need to upgrade the positive cable between batteries, and the cable down to the starter when you change your starter. All that heat damages the cables and now they are less Conductive than before. And can casue the new starter to struggle.

While your at it,mconsider getting top post battery and cables since you have to swap it all anyways. Much better. I also install a disconnect switch on the ground cable under the hood when I do mine. That way pop the hood and turn a switch. I just use the basic $20 ones and never had a problem.
https://m.summitracing.com/parts/hla-002843011
 
Trust me, you will want to go with top post batteries for maximum conductivity. They are at least double the surface area (with premium cable ends) of side posts. The best option is to use commercial rated dual post batteries. Best of both worlds. You use the top posts for the starting circuit cables and the side post connections for auxiliary circuits like entertainment systems, lighting or an attachment point for an upgraded alternator lead. One of our members is a vendor who makes some really high quality, super-duty battery cable sets and glowplug harnesses, @racedaymechanic .
 
IMG_0817.JPG Thanks for the input and help on this one. I checked the guage of the positive to positive cable going from battery to battery and it's 4guage. I will be swapping it out to 2 guage. I still have to shop around for some good batteries with top & side posts. I also need to find the new battery cables. I never had to replace battery cables before so not sure how many feet I will need of each or even what guage. Yep I'm a real newbie here. I will get the job done thought because it sucks not being able to drive her. Especially because I just got my new rims yesterday and today was my birthday.
 
My raceday cables were all side post. I use tops for aux and jumping tractors.

From my experience there is I higher fail rate of dual posts due to loosing connection to one of the posts. I still run them but I have lost random posts after a couple years. Typically the top POS post fails but not always.
 
tanman_2006 said:
My raceday cables were all side post. I use tops for aux and jumping tractors.

From my experience there is I higher fail rate of dual posts due to loosing connection to one of the posts. I still run them but I have lost random posts after a couple years. Typically the top POS post fails but not always.
Click to expand...

I believe he will kake his sets in either configuration, side or top post. Either way, they are FAR superior to ANYTHING "store bought".

As far as dual post batteries, I have never had the kind of failure you describe, and I've ran them in two different vehicles since 2004. Perhaps it is the brand/quality of battery.
 
Husker6.5 said:
I believe he will kake his sets in either configuration, side or top post. Either way, they are FAR superior to ANYTHING "store bought".

As far as dual post batteries, I have never had the kind of failure you describe, and I've ran them in two different vehicles since 2004. Perhaps it is the brand/quality of battery.
Click to expand...


I've been running dual posts for a long time. I had a period of batteries that did not last. They were Nascar Selects from Napa. I went through quite a few of them. Since then I have been having all batteries load tested before I buy them.

The range in the batteries that I have since tested is pretty surprising. They all test good, but many are not all the way over on the meter like they should be.
 
While working on the starter, make sure it has the bracket. Search around for the part number and reason why this is critical. If the bracket is not present, get one!

In terms of the starter replacement, search for which one to use as there are only a few that have notations for durability.
 
Okay this is weird. I needed to use to truck a few days ago because My girls car battery was dead so I needed to use the truck to go buy her a new battery. I get the wires on the side that smelted the battery cable holder. The second battery it happened to was a dual post... top and side mount die hard which I bought so I just connected to the top. Truck starts fine every time if I wait until the glo plug wait light goes out. If I try to start it before that the starter just keep going. Any ideas why?
 
I bought the starter from napa for 169 plus core charge didn't swap it out yet.
 
Oh... other shitty thing. The rims are not 16x10.... they are 16.5x9.75. Anyone want to buy them from me? I'm not going to use them because I don't want to buy new tires. My tires are like new and my rims on her now are 16 so my tires can't go on those rims. Anyone want to buy them them let me know. 725 is what I paid so 725 gets them and I polished two of them quick. If someone puts good time into polishing them they will shine like chrome.
 
IMG_2623.JPG Hey all, sorry I haven't been active but I'm back. Still have my 1999 Suburban that I started this thread about. I just turned 190,000 miles just yesterday. She was down for over 2 months while I had real life problems. So I just started driving her again. Getting ready to do some more upgrades and maintenance to her this up coming week but I have a lot on my plate.

Remodeling the home with my fiancé, putting in wood floors and painting the whole house. I also have a 1991 RHD RX7 Savanna sitting in my garage which was just recently imported from Japan. She's getting ready for a paint job. I also have my 1999 Mercedes Benz c230 kompressor which needs a little love and I'm buying my girl a 3 carat engagement ring so as you can picture... My life is hectic.

Not to mention I was in the hospital Christmas Eve. So I'm not in the best of health. Seems my lungs are in pretty bad shape. They are hyperextended and pressing on my rib cage whenever I breathe so the pain is pretty bad. However life goes on and I keep going.

Some work I'll be doing after I order some parts from good old Leroy diesel.
Walbro Frc10 kit, fluid damper, oil cooler lines & a fresh oil change.

I love my Suburban & hope she lasts me for many years to come.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top