A Better Oil Catch Can. Maybe?

[n8in8or]

Is the pre-turbo intake all stock?

 

[Will L.]

Is the valve cover missing a oil deflector under the ccv port?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

Yes. There was a baffle inside that i removed. Im thinking that is contributing to the oil loss. The online descriptions said to cut the stamped rivets off, remove and media (similar to scouring pads) and replace with more material than was original. Then the rivets are drilled out and use self taping screw to reinstall.

I found out later, the mod works for generation #2 valve cover, and I have generation #1. Not enough material to use self tapers. My set up doesnt even have a place to pack the material in. When I pull the valve cover back off I will do pics. There was some kind of fitting or device inside the valve cover, i am wondering if that is a cdr of sorts that is inop allowing way more turbo generated vacuum pulling all the oil.

I'm going to pull the valve cover and reinstall the baffle-somehow. Maybe tap and use tiny #6 machine screws or epoxy. i am trying to locate the baffle, my nephew has kinda taken over the tiny 1 car garage to work on his j10 after I did the valve cover and between him and my 16 year old son my shop and the garage looks like a team of crack heads got in a 100 man brawl. They might have thrown it away even. If so i will cut up some tin sheeting or something.

Before I took it out, it was starting to puff a bit of smoke and like I mentioned, I saw no regular signs of blow by, and the couple of write ups i saw, they spoke about the media being saturated.

Is the pre-turbo intake all stock?

Yes, except what i did to the valve cover and now the catch can, entire drive train is stock. Oil consumption was way low before. I would guess it would take 7500-8000 miles to loose 1 quart. Now 75 miles a quart.

Way to clown something up that was a tiny issue and turn it major-

 

[schiker]

I tried cleaning out what they use like a cdr, and removing a baffle in the valve cover to do so. Huge mistake- way worse.

Dang that is a lot of oil to pump through. Yeah thinking windage and sling off of rockers. It seems to be almost siphoning liquid oil. That can't all be vapor condensation can it?

Looking in the hole with the elbow fitting what is directly underneath it? Any chance you have some slow drainage out of the valve cover area and the elbow fitting sticking down too far into the valve cover and picking up oil directly from either windage and or a puddle?

Maybe add a largish can right above the valve cover and create a baffle out of the valve cover. Let the can sorta percolate oil back into the valve cover to make sure only vapor is drawn to the catch can????

 

[n8in8or]

Yes. There was a baffle inside that i removed. Im thinking that is contributing to the oil loss. The online descriptions said to cut the stamped rivets off, remove and media (similar to scouring pads) and replace with more material than was original. Then the rivets are drilled out and use self taping screw to reinstall.

I found out later, the mod works for generation #2 valve cover, and I have generation #1. Not enough material to use self tapers. My set up doesnt even have a place to pack the material in. When I pull the valve cover back off I will do pics. There was some kind of fitting or device inside the valve cover, i am wondering if that is a cdr of sorts that is inop allowing way more turbo generated vacuum pulling all the oil.

I'm going to pull the valve cover and reinstall the baffle-somehow. Maybe tap and use tiny #6 machine screws or epoxy. i am trying to locate the baffle, my nephew has kinda taken over the tiny 1 car garage to work on his j10 after I did the valve cover and between him and my 16 year old son my shop and the garage looks like a team of crack heads got in a 100 man brawl. They might have thrown it away even. If so i will cut up some tin sheeting or something.

Before I took it out, it was starting to puff a bit of smoke and like I mentioned, I saw no regular signs of blow by, and the couple of write ups i saw, they spoke about the media being saturated.



Yes, except what i did to the valve cover and now the catch can, entire drive train is stock. Oil consumption was way low before. I would guess it would take 7500-8000 miles to loose 1 quart. Now 75 miles a quart.

Way to clown something up that was a tiny issue and turn it major-

Yeah it sure sounds like the valve cover mod is what's driving your problem. I like schiker's suggestion of making the seperation mechanism external of the valve cover instead of internal - more room to play with.

The only thought I have with the pre-turbo intake since it's all stock is that the air filter could be plugged causing much higher than normal vacuum on the tube to the vapor recovery system. My hunch is that it's the valve cover mod though. I suppose a quick drive with the air filter out would tell?

 

[Will L.]

I have to go off the side for anything, the hood insulation is 1" of the valvecover.

I'll try the filter. And order the other cover- folks- behind the scenes, Nate found me 2 used valve covers cheap and sent me a pm on them - what a guy!

It'll be late tonight before I can respond here again about air filter and atmosphere venting. Thinking also of using a spare 6.5 cdr to see if it would help incase that little thing in the valve cover is one and is bad.

 

[C20ELEPHANT]

Spent way too much money and had a lot of time in my catch can, went a little overboard. I believe it is large enough to handle the suction the turbocharger on the Duramax has, oil rated hose is expensive especially for 1"..........

Took about a year for the turbo and intercooler clear to somewhat of oil, the intercooler that's another story and I'm sure it is coated with oil on the inside as the cold side fittings were seeping. Now no oil seepage around the turbo boots and the coldside has just little.

I'll either clean the old intercooler or install the Mishimoto intercooler I bought about a 2 years ago for $450.00 on Amazon, not a mistype, it was one that had a beat up box but inside was perfect ....


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Some revised filtering
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[Will L.]

Wow Mike! 3 hoses- is one an auto drain back to the engine?

 

[Husker6.5]

So I'm trying my shot at this for my 87 Mercedes 300d. I eneded up getting a provent 200 for the hummer, but haven't installed it yet. The 300d is a 3 liter, and I tried cleaning out what they use like a cdr, and removing a baffle in the valve cover to do so. Huge mistake- way worse.

So I looked for a Tractor Supply near me- imagine this- none in Vegas, so I found this online:
https://www.surpluscenter.com/shop.axd/Search?keywords=20-999. Just under $25 including shipping. Hopefully it gets here before the weekend.

I figure if I get a bunch of oil, I will add a drain in the bottom and use a one way check valve like provent does.

Jeeze, Will, Surplus Center is like a couple of miles from my house, and I am good friends with one of the sons of the founder, too! I have used them for tons of interesting items to fabricate Rube Goldberg devices over the years, like a home-made receiver mounted electric platform lift for a friend's uncle's electric scooter chair that cost 1/4 of the cheapest commercially available, for parts. The most expensive item was the 700 lb capacity receiver mount cargo platform that I assembled upside down to act as the chair's platform. A square tube sidewinder trailer dolly jack with the handle cut off, a Surplus Center 12VDC 1/5HP offset gear reduction motor mounted on top of the trailer jack and a Surplus Center coupler to attach the gearbox shaft to the trailer jack's shaft. 30' of 2 Gauge welding cable from Surplus Center from the battery back to the 7-pin trailer socket for power, a Radio Shack plastic work box and a DPDT center Off switch and 8' of 14/3 w/G SOJT cable to a 4-pin round trailer plug and socket to control motor direction (raise/lower lift) a little bit of welding and voila! Homemade scooter lift cheap!

 

[Husker6.5]

I went to tractor supply today and checked that filter out. I got the 25 buck one and am gonna pitch the filter and put stainless pot scrubber pad in there. Seems like it would work the same way as in my still, except catch the oil instead.

Try the Dollar Tree! I got a package of three large stainless steel scubbing pads for - $1!

 

[FellowTraveler]

Hummer=love, so best parts for it. Mercedes is just a reliable car that I actually hate driving. If a car is not crazy fast, I dont like driving them. Dang affordable car to own though..

Will, those little Benz diesels do well in front a 700r4 and can fit in just about anything these days with all the adapters they have for them.

 

[FellowTraveler]

Sigh...
I too used clear pvc line so I could see if any oil is making it's way to and through the devise. I planned this as a quick temporary thing, and really was not expecting to see much. Kinda wanting this to prove it was turbo seals.
There is no blow by I could tell- open the oil fill and set a nitrile glove flat over the top and no flow. Nothing out the dipstick- acted just like you want an engine to you are wanting to buy.
So here it is installed:
View attachment 48866
The turbo is down to the left of the valve cover the long clear line is going down to the boot - it lays out about like the 6.5 except no cdr.

I test drove about 25 miles:
View attachment 48867

Yeah both lines and the can are as full of oil as they could be. Engine was smoking so bad that a cop pulled me over 10 houses away from being home. Yeah...

The clear pvc line- with the hot oil in it- bad idea. It softened up. Long term I think it would fail within a year- but keep in mind i think it pumped 1/2 quart through it.

The hummer is need of work- the injector knock just got louder and no friggen way am I going to hurt the optimizer- so I have to drive the Mercedes. Start a new job on Tuesday. Tied up Saturday and Monday on other stuff. Basically a couple hours tonight to play with and Sunday. Perfect timing- God has a sense of humor, I just don't get the punchline.

Going to try having it vent to atmosphere after the catch can and see if that does better.
All I can think is removing the baffle from the valve cover in tring to do the fix talked about on a forum, is allowing oil squirted on rocker arm and overhead cam is shooting into the vent tube. (that forum seems dead about 5 years now so no one to ask).

I was kinda hoping it was turbo seals becasue I looked under checking things out and saw the bottom of the tubro:
View attachment 48869

Vented turb housing. I knew i was down a touch on boost, know I know why.

Since we bought this car for $5500, we have put less than $1,000 in parts into it. We got it a little over 100,000 on it and it is now at 165,000. Guessing it's big money time. A turbo I get- but at a loss on the oil issue since there is no noteable blowby.

So frustrated I can't think straight. What puzzle pieces am I missing here?

Only a few things that I know of can cause that turbine burn-through excessive fueling, cracked turbo center cartridge (looks to be too much oil for seals) and/or sucking engine oil for a diesel and a bump-stick with lots of overlap on a turbo gasser "fuel and /or engine oil igniting in the turbine."

POP that turbo first and see if there is oil in the exhaust runners, if there is no obvious crank seal leaks then the turbo center housing is shot maybe cracked too.

 

[Husker6.5]

Not to mention that you CAN get a reliable 200+hp (I've heard of 300+) and 400+ lb/ft out of those 5 bangers with a little pump tweaking and wastegate/blow-off adjusting for more boost, which makes that 300TD a WHOLE different critter to drive. I remember a few years back passing an AMG Turbo Diesel Benz on the way to Denver in my Burb running just under 90, (she was running about 80) and next thing I know, not only had she caught up with me, but was walking away from me at well over 100!

 

[Husker6.5]

Spent way too much money and had a lot of time in my catch can, went a little overboard. I believe it is large enough to handle the suction the turbocharger on the Duramax has, oil rated hose is expensive especially for 1"..........

Took about a year for the turbo and intercooler clear to somewhat of oil, the intercooler that's another story and I'm sure it is coated with oil on the inside as the cold side fittings were seeping. Now no oil seepage around the turbo boots and the coldside has just little.

I'll either clean the old intercooler or install the Mishimoto intercooler I bought about a 2 years ago for $450.00 on Amazon, not a mistype, it was one that had a beat up box but inside was perfect ....


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Some revised filtering
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Has the rat found its way out of that thing yet?

 

[FellowTraveler]

Not to mention that you CAN get a reliable 200+hp (I've heard of 300+) and 400+ lb/ft out of those 5 bangers with a little pump tweaking and wastegate/blow-off adjusting for more boost, which makes that 300TD a WHOLE different critter to drive. I remember a few years back passing an AMG Turbo Diesel Benz on the way to Denver in my Burb running just under 90, (she was running about 80) and next thing I know, not only had she caught up with me, but was walking away from me at well over 100!

I think Will's Benz is a 6 cyl 12 valve, 6 cyl quad valve can be built to 600 hp and remain street-able

 

[FellowTraveler]

Another thing to consider is a clogged cat on the BENZ could have led to excessive back pressure too,

 

[Will L.]

Mine is the 6 cylinder. I bought a valvecover on ebay, it got lost in shipping-so I'm driving the hummer. Valve cover turned up finally, and plan on going into it thursday or friday.
There is a guy in vegas that has the same car, engine, color etc as mine. He redid his rearend and idk what to his trans, but he smokes his 12" tires all day long. He had it dyno at 350ish hp 700 ish torque(i don't remember) and has since hopped it up more. Halarious go cart to ride in.

 

[Husker6.5]

Why would somebody shove a kitty up the tailpipe of a diesel?

 

[Husker6.5]

Here @Will L. For you viewing pleasure!

 

[Will L.]

Thanks to Nate the (6.5 HP honcho, or torque tycoon) for finding me a good price on a valve cover no one chopped up yet. I swapped it out and back to prehack smoke levels. I have been driving the hummer so soft in the mean time I'm getting 13 mpg out of it- this is hard not stomping the pedal. Going to just drive the benz, and cross my fingers.
With that hole in the exhaust housing of the turbo, maybe the turbo seals are bad also and thats where it is spitting in the oil. Any bubblegum ideas for the housing?
I know a new turbo is the he right answer but the thing is due for smog in March, and idk if it will pass smog burning this oil. So if it doesn't, I will just send it down the road to someone who hat wants to rebuild it.

 

[n8in8or]

Thanks to Nate the (6.5 HP honcho, or torque tycoon) for finding me a good price on a valve cover no one chopped up yet. I swapped it out and back to prehack smoke levels. I have been driving the hummer so soft in the mean time I'm getting 13 mpg out of it- this is hard not stomping the pedal. Going to just drive the benz, and cross my fingers.
With that hole in the exhaust housing of the turbo, maybe the turbo seals are bad also and thats where it is spitting in the oil. Any bubblegum ideas for the housing?
I know a new turbo is the he right answer but the thing is due for smog in March, and idk if it will pass smog burning this oil. So if it doesn't, I will just send it down the road to someone who hat wants to rebuild it.

I'm happy to help a dude out that helps so many others on here out. I'm glad to hear it got you back to where you were before.