• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

A Better Oil Catch Can. Maybe?

Stock it is pre-turbo. Mine is pre-turbo. Works all the same. Previously I had it routed coming from the CDR and running to the bottom side of my air intake pre-turbo. But that vertical rise into the piece of pipe was too much and oil pooled in the hose. So this way works a lot better I feel.
 
When I checked with a digital manometer there was quite a but of vacuum in the stock location. The further you get from the turbo the less vacuum. I was just wondering if you moved the location at the same time as the catch can upgrade. If so it would beinteresting to see if it altered your rresults any.
 
ak diesel driver said:
When I checked with a digital manometer there was quite a but of vacuum in the stock location. The further you get from the turbo the less vacuum. I was just wondering if you moved the location at the same time as the catch can upgrade. If so it would beinteresting to see if it altered your rresults any.
Click to expand...
I had a leak develop at my front main seal by moving the catch can I installed far and away from the turbo vacuum source caught it right away and corrected it.
 
I made something like that from a 3" black ABS with a screw on 'cleanout' cemented on the top and a screw on cap fitting on the bottom, 1" copper fittings and some marine clear tubing. I had no problems with the tubes, it works very well. Seems like I posted pics of it but I may remember wrong. I really do have some brain damage, it's not just the tag on my avatar.
 
So I'm trying my shot at this for my 87 Mercedes 300d. I eneded up getting a provent 200 for the hummer, but haven't installed it yet. The 300d is a 3 liter, and I tried cleaning out what they use like a cdr, and removing a baffle in the valve cover to do so. Huge mistake- way worse.

So I looked for a Tractor Supply near me- imagine this- none in Vegas, so I found this online:
https://www.surpluscenter.com/shop.axd/Search?keywords=20-999. Just under $25 including shipping. Hopefully it gets here before the weekend.

I figure if I get a bunch of oil, I will add a drain in the bottom and use a one way check valve like provent does.
 
That's the unit. I used stainless steel scrubber inside, on the same theory as using it in my distiller. You probably have better insight than I on my theory. It's not alcohol in the vapor, but I've also not collected much as the optimizer from Ted's seems to gave little use and backed up with data from UOA. Your thoughts?
 
Hope it works as well for you Will, as it has for me. I hadn't even checked mine in over 6 months, but after seeing this thread pop up this morning, I checked, and emptied it. It probably had 2-3oz. in it. Other than changing the oil in my truck, I haven't touched anything in about a year now. It been a very care free 6.5, that continues to serve me well. Make sure to post pics of your setup Will. Thanks

Matt
 
Will L. said:
So I'm trying my shot at this for my 87 Mercedes 300d. I eneded up getting a provent 200 for the hummer, but haven't installed it yet. The 300d is a 3 liter, and I tried cleaning out what they use like a cdr, and removing a baffle in the valve cover to do so. Huge mistake- way worse.

So I looked for a Tractor Supply near me- imagine this- none in Vegas, so I found this online:
https://www.surpluscenter.com/shop.axd/Search?keywords=20-999. Just under $25 including shipping. Hopefully it gets here before the weekend.

I figure if I get a bunch of oil, I will add a drain in the bottom and use a one way check valve like provent does.
Click to expand...

Why not temporarily use the "in stock" provent 200 on the Mercedes and then see if the $25 stuff works just as well? It would be a cool comparison to make to see if the provent catches more stuff.

Again I note that plastic in the CDR, hot crankcase blowby fumes, subject to additional heat off the head area is the weak link. I suggest making sure Chernobyl melt down path of any plastic items do not land on the exhaust manifold. I have melted plastic items to failure in the CDR just used to keep the CDR to turbo inlet functional with different turbos. Just because I was also ruining the engine oil on that engine doesn't mean someday when the SHTF you won't also melt lower temp plastic down. Notes/suggestions for non-metal items that have a higher or no melting point suitable for this CDR use are welcome. SHTF like say the "you can't fix stupid" backwards thermostat (say stuck closed would be a more non-stupidly common situation) the the 6.2 parts engine I just picked up has and I am looking at the partially melted rocker buttons on both heads along with cracked pistons: You bet the CDR was venting Chernobyl hot stuff!
 
The provent has a drain and 1way check valve to auto drain into engine. It is also plastic btw, but I didnt look at what material it is made from. Pvc has the lowest melt point of any plastics other than possible #7 which is "mixed up junk anything goes plastic".

I just want to throw something on it real fast, and see how much am I really sucking out vs is the turbo leaking it. If it fixes it, i would be to tempted to leave it there and not afford a good one for the Hummer.

Hummer=love, so best parts for it. Mercedes is just a reliable car that I actually hate driving. If a car is not crazy fast, I dont like driving them. Dang affordable car to own though.

If it does solve the problem, I might try swapping them (based on time constraints) for the experiment now that you mention it. A good comparison for everyone could help save a bunch of people some cash maybe?

Before, if it was driven easy for a week, the first 2 times I would go WOT up to 65mph, an oil puff of smoke would come out the back, then nothing agian unless it got babied arounf a couple weeks. I was doing other stuff to it and decided to try the valve cover fix, oops. One of the things was, the suctionline from the valvecover to the turbo inlet boot was meesed up and sucking air, so idk if the valve cover mod helped, hurt, or nothing to tell the truth.

Now anytime you hit the throttle half way, oilcloud.

I will take before/after video incase I ever learn how to post it.
 
Polypropylene (PP) is classified as a “thermoplastic” (as opposed to “thermoset”) material which has to do with the way the plastic responds to heat. Thermoplastic materials become liquid at their melting point (roughly 130 degrees Celsius in the case of polypropylene). https://www.creativemechanisms.com/blog/all-about-polypropylene-pp-plastic

That's 266*F, so I'd be tempted to put it in the intake airflow: prevent melting, and assist condensation of vapors. That's where I have mine. It's 4" ABS black drain pipe and fittings. It's plumbed from an EMPTY CDR with 1"copper and can hold 1.5 liters. I empty it at each oil change and get 1 or 2 oz. out of it.
ABS has a higher deformity temp. than PP:

Heat Distortion Temperature
- is the temperature where a test piece of a material placed in a heat medium with a bending load (18.6 kg/cm2) applied - reaches a specified deflection.
  • ABS: 104 - 106 oC
  • PVC: 54 - 80 oC
  • HDPE: 43 - 49 oC
  • LDPE: 32 - 41 oC
  • PP: 57 - 64 oC
Vicat Softening Temperature
- is the temperature where a needle shaped penetrator sinks into a test piece a specified depth when a specified vertical load (1 kg) is applied.
  • ABS: 102.3 oC
  • PVC: 92 oC
  • PE: 127.3 oC
  • PP: 152.2 oC
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/plastic-pipes-operating-pressure-d_1621.html
 
Will L. said:
Hummer=love, so best parts for it. Mercedes is just a reliable car that I actually hate driving. If a car is not crazy fast, I dont like driving them. Dang affordable car to own though.

If it does solve the problem, I might try swapping them (based on time constraints) for the experiment now that you mention it. A good comparison for everyone could help save a bunch of people some cash maybe?

Before, if it was driven easy for a week, the first 2 times I would go WOT up to 65mph, an oil puff of smoke would come out the back, then nothing agian unless it got babied arounf a couple weeks. I was doing other stuff to it and decided to try the valve cover fix, oops. One of the things was, the suctionline from the valvecover to the turbo inlet boot was meesed up and sucking air, so idk if the valve cover mod helped, hurt, or nothing to tell the truth.

Now anytime you hit the throttle half way, oilcloud.
Click to expand...
Hmmm, rings and valve stem seals? moneytrap:angelic:
 
Sigh...
I too used clear pvc line so I could see if any oil is making it's way to and through the devise. I planned this as a quick temporary thing, and really was not expecting to see much. Kinda wanting this to prove it was turbo seals.
There is no blow by I could tell- open the oil fill and set a nitrile glove flat over the top and no flow. Nothing out the dipstick- acted just like you want an engine to you are wanting to buy.
So here it is installed:
IMG_1861.JPG
The turbo is down to the left of the valve cover the long clear line is going down to the boot - it lays out about like the 6.5 except no cdr.

I test drove about 25 miles:
IMG_1864.JPG

Yeah both lines and the can are as full of oil as they could be. Engine was smoking so bad that a cop pulled me over 10 houses away from being home. Yeah...

The clear pvc line- with the hot oil in it- bad idea. It softened up. Long term I think it would fail within a year- but keep in mind i think it pumped 1/2 quart through it.

The hummer is need of work- the injector knock just got louder and no friggen way am I going to hurt the optimizer- so I have to drive the Mercedes. Start a new job on Tuesday. Tied up Saturday and Monday on other stuff. Basically a couple hours tonight to play with and Sunday. Perfect timing- God has a sense of humor, I just don't get the punchline.

Going to try having it vent to atmosphere after the catch can and see if that does better.
All I can think is removing the baffle from the valve cover in tring to do the fix talked about on a forum, is allowing oil squirted on rocker arm and overhead cam is shooting into the vent tube. (that forum seems dead about 5 years now so no one to ask).

I was kinda hoping it was turbo seals becasue I looked under checking things out and saw the bottom of the tubro:
IMG_1870.PNG

Vented turb housing. I knew i was down a touch on boost, know I know why.

Since we bought this car for $5500, we have put less than $1,000 in parts into it. We got it a little over 100,000 on it and it is now at 165,000. Guessing it's big money time. A turbo I get- but at a loss on the oil issue since there is no noteable blowby.

So frustrated I can't think straight. What puzzle pieces am I missing here?
 
Is the valve cover missing a oil deflector under the ccv port?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top