A Better Oil Catch Can. Maybe?

[bowtiebutler956]

Some of you know I recently installed an small oil catch can on my truck, as I have an intercooler that I'm trying to keep clean. The catch can I got turned out to be just that, an empty can. I was at Tractor Supply Co. the other day when I noticed these pesticide sprayer filters. They have a two layer wire mesh filter in them. One layer of course screen, and one layer of very fine screen. The filter cup spins off, and had an o-ring for sealing. It has larger 1" NPT threads in it, but I picked up a couple adapter to go to a 3/4" barb fitting. I thought this might do a better job of pulling the oil out of the air. It would be easy to add a scotchbrite pad to it for added filtering.
I figure I'll build a bracket for it, and install it in the next couple day, but I thought I'd see what you guys thought about it.
I included one pic of my current catch can.
The price for this filter is $25 at TSC
Matt

 

[Will L.]

I see potential there. How tall, and what diameter is that?

 

[bowtiebutler956]

Here are the pics of the measurements Will. Top width 5", Bottom width 3", Length 6.5". TSC sells both a larger, and a smaller version of this filter.

Matt

 

[hookedup50]

Watching this. I happen to be going to TS tomorrow to stock up on bolts for my snowrake and will check this out as well. I saved the bracket from the oem vac sensor. Ill see if I can conjure something up. I actually may get to drive the truck this week as the latest reassembly is taking place. Matt, thanks for sharing your ideas.

 

[bowtiebutler956]

Watching this. I happen to be going to TS tomorrow to stock up on bolts for my snowrake and will check this out as well. I saved the bracket from the oem vac sensor. Ill see if I can conjure something up. I actually may get to drive the truck this week as the latest reassembly is taking place. Matt, thanks for sharing your ideas.

I'll try to get mine installed tomorrow, and hopefully it works well. I'm always looking for a cheaper way to get a job done. Sometimes it works out, sometimes not.

Matt

 

[Jorge6.5]

The current catch can has no oil residue at all?

 

[bowtiebutler956]

The current catch can has no oil residue at all?

I haven't checked to see if there is any oil in it. I'm going by my clear hoses. The outlet side has the same oil residue as the inlet side of the catch can.

Matt

 

[ak diesel driver]

My understanding is that one of the things necessary to help get the oil to coalese and fall out of suspension from the air is to slow it down. The air as it flows thru the mesh should be as slow as you can get it. The only way to slow it down is to introduce it to a high volume canister, that being said the more blowby your engine has the bigger the canister needs to be. I liken this to the cyclonic dust collectors used in woodworking.

 

[Will L.]

On a conventional catch can A large can being fed by a small hose creates a pressure differential. The decrease in pressure makes it work like an orifice tube in an AC system. The expansion of the oil in a near gaseous state causes a rapid temperature drop and the condensing of the oil, so it can fall (under gravity) and not travel out the other hose.

A screen I the can like this will still allow for the pressure differential, but adding the "filter effect" should stop the oil dead in its tracks. Drill and tap the bottom of it adding a check valve and plumb a return port into a valve cover or oil pan and it would be perfect.

I just have to figure out what some of my off road angles might pose problems in and where I can fit this, and I bet a cdr could be history.

 

[ak diesel driver]

A CDR does nothing as far as oil and coalescing go. Its only purpose is to stop the turbo from creating to much vacuum in high boost situations. I'd think you'd still want it even with a good working catch can

 

[FellowTraveler]

Interesting indeed I like the concept, however I'd pay close attention to it to make sure it will not allow the crankcase to pressurize the number # 1 reason for excessive pressure would be that the CDR hoses ID are smaller than factory size then # 2 would be the catch cans ports ID are smaller than factory CDR port size this is the reason crankcase oil separators come in different sizes according to the CID/LTR displacement and/or output.

The first indication something is wrong is no oil residue in the catch can whatsoever, next would be oil leaks manifesting at frt/rear main seals and/or dipstick rising out its sleeve.

 

[FellowTraveler]

If I may, I suggest placing steel/bronze wool or scotchbrite on inside of the screen and have the in port extend through the screen and elbow into the wool so it guarantees catching oil while other port remains outside the screen then monitor how much oil is caught to determine how often you must drain it.

 

[FellowTraveler]

As and example of crankcase vent sizing let's look at MANN PRO VENT
The Pro Vent 200 is good on a diesel up to 250 kw or 335.26 hp which is pretty much a direct fit on the 6.5td and it eliminates the stock CDR.
The Pro Vent 400 is good on a diesel up to 500 kw or 670.5 hp but has much larger port size and is BIG.
The port sizes increase so I conclude anyone w/6.5td beyond 335.26 hp needs larger crankcase port or two ports one on each valve cover like on the older 6.2 diesel.

 

[Will L.]

If the cdr is for turbo high boost: I know Fellow traveler is correct on provent's instruction to remove the cdr; also why do they come on natural aspirated 6.5's?
I know I am still running a 6.5 n/a cdr and there is a difference in it and the turbo cdr, but I have been running it for some time now and still dump the same amount of oil as before the turbo.
I am really lost on the cdr , I know I "learned" it in the past, but I must have slept too much since then, cause I cant remember a thing on it now.

 

[ak diesel driver]

It's designed to close in a high vacuum situation. I would assume it's to keep from putting to much vacuum in the crankcase and actually forcing gasses past the rings

 

[bowtiebutler956]

Wow, what a bunch of great responses, and info!! Thanks!

If I may, I suggest placing steel/bronze wool or scotchbrite on inside of the screen and have the in port extend through the screen and elbow into the wool so it guarantees catching oil while other port remains outside the screen then monitor how much oil is caught to determine how often you must drain it.

I put the scotchbrite to the inside of the screen, and that is the first thing the incoming oil will contact, then the fine screen, then the coarse, before leaving the catch can. I'm using large 3/4" ID hose, so it should have adequate flow.

I got it installed, and I should know how well its going to work in a few days. I do have 3/4" Gates oil hose for it, but I thought I'd leave the clear on for awhile, so I can better see how its working. Here are a few pics.

Matt

 

[hookedup50]

I went to tractor supply today and checked that filter out. I got the 25 buck one and am gonna pitch the filter and put stainless pot scrubber pad in there. Seems like it would work the same way as in my still, except catch the oil instead.

 

[bowtiebutler956]

I went to tractor supply today and checked that filter out. I got the 25 buck one and am gonna pitch the filter and put stainless pot scrubber pad in there. Seems like it would work the same way as in my still, except catch the oil instead.

Feel free to post pics in this thread of your install.

Matt

 

[Will L.]

Looks good to me.

 

[hookedup50]

It will be a week or so, as I'm finishing up welding in cab corner and putting new interior in. My mindset is that I'm still running the old motor that had a good amount of blowby. That engine would have clogged the fine mesh IMO, I don't have that issue anymore, but worried about causing an unnecessary leak. Nice bracket and install by the way.