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95 k2500 followed me home

MrMarty51 said:
And here I thought the gauge would be close to accurate at whatever altitude the reading is from, I always figured they`d self compensate from the resources available to them, IE, baro pressure, altitude or whatever other resources is available to them.
Click to expand...
The baro sensors came in many configurations know as a bar reading each bar is 14.7+- at sea level so the more boost in an application using baro sensor for fueling the higher amount of bar readings the sensor needs to be example 2 bar, 3 bar & 4 bar and up..
 
FellowTraveler said:
The baro sensors came in many configurations know as a bar reading each bar is 14.7+- at sea level so the more boost in an application using baro sensor for fueling the higher amount of bar readings the sensor needs to be example 2 bar, 3 bar & 4 bar and up..
Click to expand...
When cleaning shallow wells using a diaphragm pump, I could clean down to about 28 feets + or- at this altitude without dumping water down the case to bring the water level up to a pumpable level. I know at sea level it is around 30 or 32 feets or some such. LOL
 
When the ATT was on the truck I would see around 16-18ish . The hx40 has hit 20 a couple of times. Our elevation at the house is around 6400 and when towing the pass we regularly go over is about 11k. The Att was easier on motor on flats or small hills but wouldn't like below 2k rpms. It would have little to no boost at cruising while the hx40 almost always is boosting at 5 psi.
 
Well i got the pumps switched out. Took a little bit more time than i wanted , so i still havent installed the tci controller. It looks like a nice unit, hopefully it works well. The truck didnt start right away, with the air and having the fuel solenoid wired to a fuse the wpuld drop voltage will cranking.Right now i put it on a switch , but will find some thing that will operate with the key and stay powered up while cranking. Its running rough, with what I hope is just a shit ton of air in the system, and not my screwing up the install of pump/gears. i guess my question would be can you install ip and gears incorrectly ? Like a gasser with the distributor 180 out? Ill run it again tomorrow nite and see if I find any leaks, Put the clear tube on the return when it was first running and it was almost nothing but air. Ill get some pictures posted tomorrow nite.
Thanks
Eric
 
Finally got everything put back together and couldnt get the smoke to clear up. Nice diesel smelling smoke, the air is all gone but still grey smoke at idle. I have double checked the timing gears and they seem good. The one thing i have noticed is that the advance piston plunger appears to be stuck, fully depressed. I havent looked up the fix for this , but with my luck it probably needs rebuilt. The pump sat for awhile and i imagine that old fuel gummed it up. The reason to put the db2 on the truck was that i had it on a shelf, but if the pump needs work it may make more sense to return the trans controller and order a new DS4.
 
Update. The plunger on the pump was stuck. i pulled it off and replaced the plunger and whohaa and it now works . truck runs great . Except the EZ-TCU is proving to be a pain. i had the tach signal to the alt and at idle it shows 3600 rpms . I have a ESS off my old 93 that may work? But im confused on the wiring . One wire to ground and other to tach signal?It may be that easy, I dont know. Electrical is not my thing. I am a plumber by trade, and even at work we set the boilers and pipe them in and sparky and the control nerds make them work . If we dont turn the building pink we are done. its their problem if it dosent work. So no electrical . trying not to get little puffs of smoke and that awesome smell of cooking something. Is the ess a powered sensor? or will the tach wire just read it spinning? or do you ground it and put some power to it and land the tach wire to the powered wire for signal .
Thanks in advance
 
Most tachs have a power, ground and signal. I’m not sure about the one You have.
If it is an original GM unit then a wiring diagram would be needed to determine what is required to make it function and the where its all required.
I would think it should work just fine though, but, I’m good at twisting wrenches and ripping stuff apart, when it comes to the tecky stuff, I’m pretty well lost. 😹😹😹
 
I don’t have an answer. Just some info that with other info from someone else may help get you there.

Ahh, plumber. The name adds up all the sudden. And I am a sparky- hilarious “control nerds” we call them “key strokers” because half the time they are typing away on the keyboard to make the electrical stuff work with the PLC. Lucky me I have to learn all that stuff at work now-smh. But have not learned how to deal with the difference of them yet. I inkw there are 1 wire, 2 wire and 3 wire tachometer options for this truck.

You might call customer support on the unit and ask if it can use a 2 wire unit.

I have no info on how the 1 wire signal from the alternator works, learned it once decades ago and forgot. It basically oiled down to either there was a damaged wire or bad alternator when it wouldn’t work. If memory serves the alternator has a $5 part that could be changed, but not normally done in shops so I never did it. I want to apply the term ‘pulse signal’ on this but am not sure that is correct. Reluctor maybe?...

The 2 wire ess on oil pump drive, and also the crank shaft sensor for military hmmwv is a variable reluctance inductive sensor and produces a sine waveThis is an ac signal not dc. It’s basically a tiny alternator that doesn’t get changed back into dc in the unit. So the controller (or tachometer) reading it has to be built for it to take in both wires.

The 3 wire sensor is the Hall effect sensor. This is the 3 wire crankchaft position sensor. This makes the square wave signal.
I don’t know if the output wire can be tapped for multiple sources. In large systems they can be, but I don’t know how that affects it in the 12v set up.
 
So does the ess require power or produce power? What produces the signal out of the was in a stock truck.i don't know wave ,binary, Latin. I know big hammer , little hammer. my tech dept joined the army 6 years ago , so I'm in the stone ages. When I hooked up the tach signal from ez-tcu to alt tach signal it read 3600 rpms. So that's not right. If I connect tach wire of TCU to ess, will it read a signal? Without a powered source? Usually at work when the controls crap out, my answer is " not my circus not my clowns". But now I'm both.
Thanks for the help.
 
The ess makes it’s own power. Both wires have to go to whatever it is telling rpm to.

longer answer to help understand it and charging system confusion, hopefully. I wish I could teach better. Inonky knkw how to make teachers mad in class and worse in detention. Haha
In old school, say 1950’s, Cars had a generator To charge the battery a generator makes dc power. DC power is Direct Current, like a battery.
You can touch the ground side of the system and never feel a shock. The ground doesn’t care what else is happening, so it is ideal for automotive.

AC power or Alternating Current, is like your house electrical. If there is a surge in electricity and you touch it, your gonna get shocked. An alternator on you car makes AC power (thats why it’s called ALTERnator. Inside the alternator is a few electronic parts that convert AC power into DC power. So when you read power on the output connection it is already DC there.

The ESS is a tiny alternator, that does not get changed into DC power.
 
Well so still not able to get a good tach signal. Nothing off of the ess or using the rpm module in the kit hooked up to the alternator . There was a dually build on here that used the same controller with db2 swap , but no info on how he hooked up the tach . gonna let the truck sit for now, and return the controller . If i keep at it right now I will set it on fire , or sell it. Thanks for you help. Anybody want a ATT turbo ?
 
Do you have any instructions on the controller you can post?. If we read it maybe we could point you in right direction.

if you are tapping same wire that also feeds dash tach, maybe it is too much draw and can only feed one.

Is there any tech support for the controller you bought?

post pics of the module you hooked up. Maybe we see an issue.

I get the technical problems feel overwhelming. been there, done that. But controllers for the80e - there are several brands. One the guy said it used the input speed sensor and didn’t care what the engine rpm was because it just used that trans sensor.

If you are rich and no longer enjoy this toy- chuck it And buy a new one. If you are in the same money boat (empty to sinking) like the rest of us- what are you gonna go buy low cost that has no electronic issues ever?
I think that truck will be built the 32nd of Neveruary.

otheerwise rip out automatic and put in a manual and get good at changing clutches every few years.
 
Yeah, I get it, it's frustrating as our trip to SD is coming up and the truck is down again. I will call the tech support tomorrow when they open, and see what they say. I like the older trucks, we will be using our 95 F350 to pull the trailer up there. It's a nice truck, but it's not my k2500. I've got other projects that need to get done , and wasn't planning on doing this much to the k2500 so soon after I got it done. I bet I don't have 5k miles on it since I got it running. I will post pictures later, and any info I get from the tech line.
 
I'm not much help with the tci, most use the optishift controller as it is MUCH simpler to use and setup. The 93 uses a magnetic output sensor. I'm not sure on it's output, but I believe it was 4 per crank revolution like a standard V8. Regardless of what you use, it will require calibrating in the tcm software. If this still has the 95's crank sensor in it, I would use that for your engine speed sensor. It outputs a nice square wave signal from the hall effect sensor.
 
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So with the advice given here I was able to get the truck running and driving with the ez-tcu. I used the crankshaft sensor and was able to get the tach signal . But as the late great Paul Harvey used to say," heres the rest of the story". When the truck quit a couple months ago , it just died on the road. We got it towed home and after looking around at truck i just assumed it was a bad pmd. Switched that out , and it ran for a day and did the same thing. Towed home again , and in a fury decided to put the db2 on the truck. Fast forward to this past Sunday, while I was handing out high fives and thinking on how great the truck was running ,( it was flat moving) the son of a bitch died. But died different, lost the tach signal but engine kept running. No shifting, crap. Pulled over , cussed , cursed the day i bought the truck etc. I shut the truck off, and reset the power to the transmission controller drove away with the truck shifting for about a 1/4 mile. it did the samething, like somebody hit a SWITCH. Damn-it. Did all the same turn truck off , re-started it and started driving away, this time I wiggled the ignition key and bam, SOB did it. SHHHHHHHHHIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIITTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT>>>>>>>.SO the pump was not bad(probably) and didnt need to do all this crap to the truck (maybe). So no statues for being awesome , no awesome birthday/anniversary gift for me , and my wife( well you know how that goes). I guess the lesson here is dont load the parts cannon right away. Thinking back on it The truck has done this stuff since owning it , and I always went straight to the pmd, and the harness. I have checked it a couple of other times and everytime I wiggle the key it shuts down the tach signal from the crank sensor.so my guess is the power drops to the ecm and since the crank sensor is the only thing powered by that , boom . And now you know the rest of the story.
Thanks
Eric
 
94's and up to late in the run 95's were known for bad ignition switches. There are stories all over on here of funky weird electrical issues - unexplained engine shut downs, working then nonworking then working gauges/controls/dashlights/headlights that all were fixed and went away when the ignition switch was replaced.
 
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