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No crank with whining noise

Will L. said:
They sell fuseable link at auto parts stores. You just use crimp connections for it.

But something is causing an issue. Installing new link now is waste of money. You have to find the short or test the starter draw. Sounds like you don’t have an inductive amp meter, so unfortunately you need to drop the starter and take it in to autoparts store for bench testing.

Cut out and bring the bad fuseable link with you to match up amperage needed while there getting it tested.

I used to go to public library and get manuals for rigs. Might check out that option. Nowdays they probably have it all free on the computers and librarians that can help with online searching
Click to expand...
Ok Ill take the starter to Oreilly and let yall know how it goes.
 
Will L. said:
They sell fuseable link at auto parts stores. You just use crimp connections for it.

But something is causing an issue. Installing new link now is waste of money. You have to find the short or test the starter draw. Sounds like you don’t have an inductive amp meter, so unfortunately you need to drop the starter and take it in to autoparts store for bench testing.

Cut out and bring the bad fuseable link with you to match up amperage needed while there getting it tested.

I used to go to public library and get manuals for rigs. Might check out that option. Nowdays they probably have it all free on the computers and librarians that can help with online searching
Click to expand...
Starter did great passed the test with a A++++++ gonna check the wire that runs down to the starter
 
Will L. said:
They sell fuseable link at auto parts stores. You just use crimp connections for it.

But something is causing an issue. Installing new link now is waste of money. You have to find the short or test the starter draw. Sounds like you don’t have an inductive amp meter, so unfortunately you need to drop the starter and take it in to autoparts store for bench testing.

Cut out and bring the bad fuseable link with you to match up amperage needed while there getting it tested.

I used to go to public library and get manuals for rigs. Might check out that option. Nowdays they probably have it all free on the computers and librarians that can help with online searching
Click to expand...
Wire the runs down the cylinoid is fine. Now the service throttle soon light is blinking and I still can't get it to crank. Starting to get really aggravated lol :banghead::banghead:
 
Take your test light and back probe that yellow wire off the ign switch. See if it has power when the switch is in the start position
 
Yours is a 94? That model year was notorious for having bad ignition switches (the electrical switch, not the lock cylinder) that would cause No Crank when turned to Start. You need to verify you have voltage out of the ignition switch from the Start terminial and Run terminal when the key is in each possition. It sounds like a PO tried to bypass a bad ignition switch instead of replacing it and managed to fry a bunch of wiring in the process.
 
Husker6.5 said:
Yours is a 94? That model year was notorious for having bad ignition switches (the electrical switch, not the lock cylinder) that would cause No Crank when turned to Start. You need to verify you have voltage out of the ignition switch from the Start terminial and Run terminal when the key is in each possition. It sounds like a PO tried to bypass a bad ignition switch instead of replacing it and managed to fry a bunch of wiring in the process.
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I have no power to the CRK fuse if that points further to the ignition switch.
 
Yes. But you must confirm the switch itself is bad by probing the terminals of the ignition switch (with harness plug detached for access to the switch terminals) and checking for voltage at the appropriate terminal(s) for each key position.
 
Husker6.5 said:
Yes. But you must confirm the switch itself is bad by probing the terminals of the ignition switch (with harness plug detached for access to the switch terminals) and checking for voltage at the appropriate terminal(s) for each key position.
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Ok I’ll check tomorrow evening and let you know what I’ve got
 
Landon730 said:
Do you know what this plug goes to?
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I recall this is part of the multifunction lever aka "turn signal/cruise/wipers" I believe the orange plug also goes to it. Should be some wires hanging out of the column to go to the stalk switch as I just described. Not at all related to "cranking".
 
Landon730 said:
Do I need to take the fuse part of and just splice the wire back together? Can I go buy a new fusable link?
Click to expand...

Only if you want to see the truck burn to the ground from the short. Get video please. You have full coverage insurance on it ? - you need it! Do not directly splice the wire in - ever!!! It will just burn up the wire and if you are lucky a fusible link elsewhere.

Your fuse is a good idea. :woot: A better idea is your test light in place of the fuse. Disconect starter small wire. If light is on with ign in crank position you still have a short. Light on indicates a short. Again use a fuse if you think the short is fixed, but, something else is hooked up like glow plug controller etc. Fuse pops means short not fixed.

We are getting ahead of ourselves condemning ign switch when a short is present.
 
WarWagon said:
Only if you want to see the truck burn to the ground from the short. Get video please. You have full coverage insurance on it ? - you need it! Do not directly splice the wire in - ever!!! It will just burn up the wire and if you are lucky a fusible link elsewhere.

Your fuse is a good idea. :woot: A better idea is your test light in place of the fuse. Disconect starter small wire. If light is on with ign in crank position you still have a short. Light on indicates a short. Again use a fuse if you think the short is fixed, but, something else is hooked up like glow plug controller etc. Fuse pops means short not fixed.

We are getting ahead of ourselves condemning ign switch when a short is present.
Click to expand...
Ok so the glow plug controller could be wiring into this wrong and causing the short? I can't find any more burnt wires I've gone through entire harness and even redid a whole bunch of grounds hoping that was it but that wasn't the problem. Heres the list of where I am at this point.
1. Glow plug controller wired wrong?
2. Ignition Switch
3. Somewhere that I'll never be able to tell is wired wrong
4. Part it even though this is the WORST option
 
quick and dirty is to unplug the glow controller and see if it still blows fuse. It is possible tho not probable that the short could be in the ign switch. With burned wires everything is suspect
 
ak diesel driver said:
quick and dirty is to unplug the glow controller and see if it still blows fuse. It is possible tho not probable that the short could be in the ign switch. With burned wires everything is suspect
Click to expand...
Ok that will be the first thing I try tomorrow with the glow controller. Also forgot that for some reason I have no power to the CRK (crank) fuse in fuse block.
 
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