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No crank with whining noise

So fuel in tank needs to be checked. Run lift pump with water drain open into a glass jar, etc.

Likely wouldn't start and they killed starter trying.
 
So fuel in tank needs to be checked. Run lift pump with water drain open into a glass jar, etc.

Likely wouldn't start and they killed starter trying.
I dont really know how trust worthy it is in a truck with a wiring fault but the water in fuel light comes on for a couple seconds like normal then goes of off once ignition is turned on
 
No way would i even try running 10 year old fuel anymore. Back in the day with real #2, yes. But the new diesel gets a lot of its umf from alcohol in the Diesel. Even in perfectly air tight all metal container, the alcohol looses its function and you don’t have descent fuel in there now. Drain it and get 5 gallons of new fuel. Drain it all the way through the filter and wif drain.

Get a clear 1/4” line on the return line coming out front of ip. Truck sitting that long without the fuel circulating through the rubber lines-- probably cracked and sucking air if not happening now is probable in the next 12 months. The clear line will id air intrusion.
 
Rebuild your starter or get a powermaster. Lots of junk out there that go thunk and won't spin 1 of 4 times. Low bats can burn a motor out. More important won't get enough RPM to ever fire off thr diesel.

No way would i even try running 10 year old fuel anymore. Back in the day with real #2, yes. But the new diesel gets a lot of its umf from alcohol in the Diesel. Even in perfectly air tight all metal container, the alcohol looses its function and you don’t have descent fuel in there now. Drain it and get 5 gallons of new fuel. Drain it all the way through the filter and wif drain.

Get a clear 1/4” line on the return line coming out front of ip. Truck sitting that long without the fuel circulating through the rubber lines-- probably cracked and sucking air if not happening now is probable in the next 12 months. The clear line will id air intrusion. What does the fuel filter look like? How long was it sitting?
Low voltage will cause a selenoid to stick. Seems to arc the contacts worse.
New info. This exact style switch was on the truck the first time I messed with it. (I know its just a master disconnect....) Went from ground on starter to I don't know where else. I put 2 fresh batteries in it that night and found this switch. When I turned that red key it started cranking on its own. The keys were in my hand. I figured cylinoid at first and still am but my problem is there is a 12 gauge wire that goes from hot post on cylinoid to hot post on battery. Makes no sense. I can't figure this wiring out. In the video of me trying to crank at the end the horn honks. I didn't hit the button on the steering wheel. Serious wiring issues or something simple that Im overlooking? Took sandpaper to both grounds for both batteries. I can add any pictures that might help yall
 

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So the 12 gauge wire is in parallel with the 4 gauge wire? If it's hooked to the small terminal it would cause it to crank all the time but if it's hooked to the same terminal as the big 4 gauge wire it wouldn't do anything.
 
Can you post a bunch of pics? Start at batteries down to starter then maybe we can see what’s up. Sounds to me like they had a battery drain then installed the switch to save batteries from dying. Eventually the faulty starter solenoid fried all the way and went from just draining the batteries to cranking all The time.
 
So the 12 gauge wire is in parallel with the 4 gauge wire? If it's hooked to the small terminal it would cause it to crank all the time but if it's hooked to the same terminal as the big 4 gauge wire it wouldn't do anything.
Can you post a bunch of pics? Start at batteries down to starter then maybe we can see what’s up. Sounds to me like they had a battery drain then installed the switch to save batteries from dying. Eventually the faulty starter solenoid fried all the way and went from just draining the batteries to cranking all The time.

Yes it’s parrelel with the main cable. That confused me most. I’ll get y’all some pictures and check a couple fusable links.
 
Can you post a bunch of pics? Start at batteries down to starter then maybe we can see what’s up. Sounds to me like they had a battery drain then installed the switch to save batteries from dying. Eventually the faulty starter solenoid fried all the way and went from just draining the batteries to cranking all The time.
Can you post a bunch of pics? Start at batteries down to starter then maybe we can see what’s up. Sounds to me like they had a battery drain then installed the switch to save batteries from dying. Eventually the faulty starter solenoid fried all the way and went from just draining the batteries to cranking all The time.
AD7E2986-3D9C-4884-AFC8-F645EA95544A.jpeg3965C97D-CBA1-444C-A1E7-79AD5CC77CD9.jpeg2FB41986-C3E8-4CC2-91B4-791B3AA5F2D9.jpegB6BD3D4C-F836-4AF2-A481-0DC62CC025B8.jpeg1DBB2B11-C2CD-475D-AB1F-32FE91EFF937.jpeg
 

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The wire I had with the battery cable by the battery actually goes to S on the cylinoid. Where does it need to be hooked to. What about the one that is with battery cable on starter?
 
If someone has one or can draw me a simple diagram of how many wires I need and how i need to run them off the starter that would be awesome as of right now the starter has the small wire off small post of cylinoid and the battery cable and then one more of same post as battery cable
 
On unaltered wiring it goes directly to that wiring block without going to the starter. I believe that larger piece on there is a fusible link
 
Don't have a diagram but I believe that wire supplies power to that block.
One of those wires that was on that master has power constant but that block can’t get power with out a wire on it or a different wire touching the battery. I’m beyond confused I’m headed to look at A parts truck maybe I can get something figured out if not I’ll let y’all know where I’m at
 
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