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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

The new parts binge continues...

I figured while I have the front of the engine torn apart for the heads and water pump, I may as well change that pesky leaking front main seal and put new glow plugs in the heads to compliment the new injectors. RockAuto took some of my money for those. Then I thought while the balancer is off, may as well replace it with a Fluidampr so snagged one from Summit. I am notorious for letting these kinds of things snowball. It just makes the ole 6.5L better right?
 
Yes, many of us can relate.
On the glowplugs, hoping ac delco 60g. Remember to use the antisieze on threads.

If you haven’t already ought the rubber body pulley to go with the new balancer, and since your balancer is now a forever item- check out this:
.

Too bad he doesn’t have anymore of the gear drive timing gears while you are there. I would suggest a new chain while you are that far into it.
 
Yes, many of us can relate.
On the glowplugs, hoping ac delco 60g. Remember to use the antisieze on threads.

If you haven’t already ought the rubber body pulley to go with the new balancer, and since your balancer is now a forever item- check out this:
.

Too bad he doesn’t have anymore of the gear drive timing gears while you are there. I would suggest a new chain while you are that far into it.
Yes, many of us can relate.
On the glowplugs, hoping ac delco 60g. Remember to use the antisieze on threads.

If you haven’t already ought the rubber body pulley to go with the new balancer, and since your balancer is now a forever item- check out this:
.

Too bad he doesn’t have anymore of the gear drive timing gears while you are there. I would suggest a new chain while you are that far into it.

Yep, 60g's. I havent ordered a bullet crank pulley yet, but that will be done at some point as well. I didn't think about timing chain, probably not a bad idea either.
 
Both of my 6.5td's would run like raped apes on those cool (35-45°), foggy mornings. Combination of cool, dense air and Mother Nature's water mist injection! And of course, those nice, crisp -15°F mornings when the air was nice and dense they had a little more power than usual, but it was those cool, foggy mornings where it was really noticable for the power increase at WOT getting up the on-ramp first thing in the morning.
I once had a 1976 FKH Electra Glide Harley Davidson, 74 cu inch with a couple of hot rod components installed.
Those days when there was a heavy mist in the air, that thing would run cool and get up and roll like it had turbo boost. What a blast. LOL
 
Yes, many of us can relate.
On the glowplugs, hoping ac delco 60g. Remember to use the antisieze on threads.

If you haven’t already ought the rubber body pulley to go with the new balancer, and since your balancer is now a forever item- check out this:
.

Too bad he doesn’t have anymore of the gear drive timing gears while you are there. I would suggest a new chain while you are that far into it.
Leroy Diesel has a facebook page. Someone over there started a list of who would want to order the timing gear set if He had more of them produced. I got My name on the list.
I think He said it would take an order of 200 sets to get it done.
I think there must be about 30 people in the list by now.
 
Crawled around under the Tahoe to see what is squeaking...... Looks like I need A arm bushings and will do the ball joints while I am at it....
I am looking at the MOOG vs MEVOTECH vs PROFORGED on RockAuto for the ball joints.....
And was eyeing the Energy Suspension Polyurethane bushings....
Anybody have an opinion?
 
Crawled around under the Tahoe to see what is squeaking...... Looks like I need A arm bushings and will do the ball joints while I am at it....
I am looking at the MOOG vs MEVOTECH vs PROFORGED on RockAuto for the ball joints.....
And was eyeing the Energy Suspension Polyurethane bushings....
Anybody have an opinion?

MOOG for ball joints. Energy Suspension or
MOOG for bushings.
 
I ordered two MOOG front sway bar end links from Rock Auto for my S10 daily driver last year. Replaced both of them. One day I was turning into the garage, when the left front tire was climbing onto the concrete slab it broke the end link. Rust had eat the metal up and it broke.

Great parts at a great price. It seems to me that MOOG makes some quality parts, but what do I know, I'm not a skilled mechanic like some of you Guru's... 🙂
 
Crawled around under the Tahoe to see what is squeaking...... Looks like I need A arm bushings and will do the ball joints while I am at it....
I am looking at the MOOG vs MEVOTECH vs PROFORGED on RockAuto for the ball joints.....
And was eyeing the Energy Suspension Polyurethane bushings....
Anybody have an opinion?

I used Mevotech last year when I did my front end. Already replaced the driver side upper again. I used Proforged on another truck and they were much better.
 
From personal experience across multiple platforms/years/makes/models/suspensions/steering systems, from a '68 Olds Cutlass convertible to a '05 Toyota Camry to a '53 Studebaker Champion Starliner Coupe and everything in between. Moog for OEM rubber replacement bushings and Energy Suspension/Prothane for poly bushings and Moog for all steering components.
 
Dropped the truck and a pallet filled with parts off at a local shop. I don't have time to get through all of it, so I guess my wallet gets to suffer some more instead. New heads (Thanks again @WarWagon), head gaskets, head studs, Bosch injectors, ACDelco 60G glow plugs, Flowkooler water pump, Fluidampr, and front main seal. I will still try to modify the intercooler and reinstall the stock radiator later, but this will get me back on the road for a while.

Going to be limiting boost to 18 psi for a while. I'm pretty sure that even with a Quadstar tune air in to the engine is outrunning fuel delivery. I'll be scaling things back in the name of dependability.
 
More air than needed in the air/fuel ratio at all rpm's is ALWAYS good for a diesel! More complete burning and combustion efficiency equals more power, cooler exhaust and less stress on the engine all things being equal. Remember, it is the VOLUME of air (CFM), not the PRESSURE (PSI) being delivered that is important. Pressure is a function of volume being moved through resistance to flow (the smallest opening, like a runner or port opening) or reduction in volume in a closed container (ie: piston moving up in cylinder with valves closed). I don't remember the details of your build, but at stock CR 18psi is near the upper limit with a GM-x turbo and stock motor. I would rather have a high volume, low psi turbo easily feeding my diesel enough air; than a low volume, high psi turbo struggling to feed my diesel enough air at X rpm for many reasons.
 
More air than needed in the air/fuel ratio at all rpm's is ALWAYS good for a diesel! More complete burning and combustion efficiency equals more power, cooler exhaust and less stress on the engine all things being equal. Remember, it is the VOLUME of air (CFM), not the PRESSURE (PSI) being delivered that is important. Pressure is a function of volume being moved through resistance to flow (the smallest opening, like a runner or port opening) or reduction in volume in a closed container (ie: piston moving up in cylinder with valves closed). I don't remember the details of your build, but at stock CR 18psi is near the upper limit with a GM-x turbo and stock motor. I would rather have a high volume, low psi turbo easily feeding my diesel enough air; than a low volume, high psi turbo struggling to feed my diesel enough air at X rpm for many reasons.

I have an HE351VE, so air volume and drive pressures shouldn't be an issue right?
 
Right! I want to (eventually, when I have money again, whenever that might be) put either one of those, or the VGT off a Duramax (preferable because of the engine displacement being near-identical to a 6.5, and it keeps the ride "All GM") on my Burb to get better bottom end and cruising power below 2100 rpm.
 
Right! I want to (eventually, when I have money again, whenever that might be) put either one of those, or the VGT off a Duramax (preferable because of the engine displacement being near-identical to a 6.5, and it keeps the ride "All GM") on my Burb to get better bottom end and cruising power below 2100 rpm.

I chose the Holset to stick with the side mount turbo. If I had a center mount, a Garrett from a Duramax would probably have been a better choice. I still give props to John at Quadstar for building the adapter parts. Dude did a great job with it.
 
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