What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

[dbrannon79]

Hey guys. I was looking on RA getting ready to order some parts. looking at thermostats for my rig, I wanted to get the OE one instead of the 180 deg that I have now. I noticed that the 190 one shows it requires a new type gasket. is this the correct one for my single stat housing and which gasket do I use if I go with this Delco 13191?

 

[Big T]

Finished the forged LCA install. Still need help bleeding breaks, but that will happen on Sunday. Going to the Utah @ UCLA game tomorrow.

 

[Will L.]

I noticed you fly the UCLA colors on your shocks! Hahaha
Better break out some black spray paint!

 

[Big T]

I noticed you fly the UCLA colors on your shocks! Hahaha
Better break out some black spray paint!

I’d be most surprised If UCLA wins tomorrow

 

[Big T]

This LCA job was a bear. Nearly every suspension related bolt fought back, even the damn lower shock bolts as I had trouble aligning the shock sleeve with the mount. They look nice, but based on initial test, I doubt they will shorten the steering radius. I always aim for improvement and I’m never much into the look thing. File this one under….

 

[Big T]

After driving it some, the turning radius is shorter. So there was improvement. Fixed and installed the the remaining sway bar link.

 

[Paveltolz]

Sunday night, my brother Jack and I finished the drive up to WA to drop off my truck at Bill's so he can dive into the issue that I'm not getting near (wrenches associated with that job don't fit my hands). The full "There and back again" story is here at post 73 with a few more pictures. Poor truck followed us like it knew I was kicking it to the curb...I did! He came up from Ventura CA with his rebuilt trailer and was going to pick up some wood slabs in Seattle anyway and decided to make the truck a test.

 

[dbrannon79]

well, this morning my defrosters wasn't doing anything for my fogged up windshield and I noticed my ac compressor wasn't turning on! connected the gauges and ... nothing. everything had leaked out. vacuumed it down and charged a couple of cans only to find out the o-ring where the shaft seal housing bolts onto the body of the compressor is bubbling out oil and freon

this R4 compressor is only a couple years old, bought new and can't find my paperwork when I bought it. It was a kit that came with the dryer and orifice tube. looked up the price where I bought this one at and WOW, the price has trippled. I paid a little over $100 then. Now it's over $350!!

Watched a youtube video on how to re-seal them. there isn't very much to it.

anyone know where I can get a o-ring and seal kit for an R4 compressor? I figure it would be worth a try to reseal it since it was blowing cold with only charging a couple of cans and not making any noise. Windshield instantly defrosted once it got to cooling.

 

[jrsavoie]

well, this morning my defrosters wasn't doing anything for my fogged up windshield and I noticed my ac compressor wasn't turning on! connected the gauges and ... nothing. everything had leaked out. vacuumed it down and charged a couple of cans only to find out the o-ring where the shaft seal housing bolts onto the body of the compressor is bubbling out oil and freon

this R4 compressor is only a couple years old, bought new and can't find my paperwork when I bought it. It was a kit that came with the dryer and orifice tube. looked up the price where I bought this one at and WOW, the price has trippled. I paid a little over $100 then. Now it's over $350!!

Watched a youtube video on how to re-seal them. there isn't very much to it.

anyone know where I can get a o-ring and seal kit for an R4 compressor? I figure it would be worth a try to reseal it since it was blowing cold with only charging a couple of cans and not making any noise. Windshield instantly defrosted once it got to cooling.

If you were closer, I have a GM AC oring kit.
Probably missing the particular oring you need.
How soon are you in need?
If you're willing to wait for shipping, I can hunt it down and send it to you.

 

[dbrannon79]

I don't mind waiting lol the main one that is leaking is just a matter of pulling the clutch and the 4 bolts behind the clutch to pull the shaft seal housing off. the main body o-rings seem fine and the shaft seal seems good too. I suspect getting at the main body o-rings will need a special tool anyway. the video I watched showed the guy using an old r4 outer shell split and made into a pressing tool to get it off.

I know eventually I will have to bite the bullet and replace the whole thing lol. the weather is cooling down now where the AC isn't really needed except for defogging in wet weather.

 

[jrsavoie]

well, this morning my defrosters wasn't doing anything for my fogged up windshield and I noticed my ac compressor wasn't turning on! connected the gauges and ... nothing. everything had leaked out. vacuumed it down and charged a couple of cans only to find out the o-ring where the shaft seal housing bolts onto the body of the compressor is bubbling out oil and freon

this R4 compressor is only a couple years old, bought new and can't find my paperwork when I bought it. It was a kit that came with the dryer and orifice tube. looked up the price where I bought this one at and WOW, the price has trippled. I paid a little over $100 then. Now it's over $350!!

Watched a youtube video on how to re-seal them. there isn't very much to it.

anyone know where I can get a o-ring and seal kit for an R4 compressor? I figure it would be worth a try to reseal it since it was blowing cold with only charging a couple of cans and not making any noise. Windshield instantly defrosted once it got to cooling.

I checked and couldn't find the GM kit. I found the Chrysler kit.
I may have loaned out the GM kit or someone borrowed it.
I found this Chrysler kit. Does anyone know if it would be any help?

 

[dbrannon79]

I found a parts breakdown photo online
The one that’s leaking is #22. To completely reseal one it will use #’s 20, 22, 23, and 27 if I’m looking at it correctly. But there are two caveats to resealing one of these compressors…
1. Conditions of the reeds and pistons
2. Getting the thing apart lol

I think I can easily replace # 22 without too much hassle and keep on chugging along or at least make it last a while longer

 

[Big T]

So I opened my Leroy valve cover kit at the Montana home. It only had one set of cork gaskets, yet Leroy’s install video shows him using two. So I called Leroy and had a great discussion on the the leaky valve cover issue. Leroy said you can use two gaskets, or one, up to you. Even better, he suggested I install the girdle and cork gasket on the passenger side valve cover to see if that cured the leak. Saves the hassle of removing injector lines to remove valve covers.

 

[Big T]

I swapped in a K47 air box into the ‘99 Suburban. The existing K47 box had suffered some melting near the turbo which I had repaired. Had bought this replacement, but it came without the inlet fitting to connect to the fender.





I had to swap the plate underneath the housing to the new one, plus the inlet fitting. The old one is going to Dbrannon along with the boot, but he’s going to need the elbow and possibly the inlet fitting.

 

[Big T]

So I’m up in Montana, post foot surgery, and feeling guilty I’m not doing projects on the ‘99 Suburban. Over did the walking in the boot and the bottom portion of the surgical incision started to become painful like a blister from hiking. Pulled off the bandages and the area was irritated and the wound had started to split open between two of the stitches. So I’m staying home watching my needy, geriatric English Springer who had taken to howling in the 4Runner while we we’re showing our guest SW Montana. Cannot risk splitting open this surgical incision. So truck projects and 4Runner maintenance has to wait.

 

[jaydee1445]

I'm almost done with the broken stuff needed to get 95 K1500 Burb DD ready.
Yesterday I drilled and tapped the heater fitting and added repair fitting to rear evaporator on the 95 burb I'm redoing. Heater fitting was the third one I've done so it was not bad.
The Evap repair had me pulling out my hair looking for fittings I'm Using Dorman compression fitting and Dorman 800-9961 Dorman 800-963 female o-ring tube ends but the swivel nuts are Unobtainium. I saved the 5/8 nut and reused it but I cut the 3/8 nut to save the $53 tube to the expansion valve. Got some of the as seen on TV aluminum low temp brazing rods from Harbor freight and brazed the end to the factory tube. Hopefully I left enough meat on the lines for compression union.

 

[dbrannon79]

oh, you just gotta love those crappy pot metal aluminum fittings!

 

[jaydee1445]

Made mor progress to my mods this week. Got radiator, condenser, and Derale trans cooler in. Flushed the liquid line and rear ac lines and hooked up everything but the rear evap.
Removed the beloved filter / cooler line adapter and plumed remote filter and radiator cooler. I decided to use the SBC filter adapter bolted to the block and a spin-on adapter with AN fittings to keep a factory bypass valve.
I used the 6ft Jegs $13 premade -8AN hoses many of the kits used instead of the 10 AM high performance lines after discussing it with Derale and Wix techs agreeing it would be fine for stock HP SBC. I like the Jeg's AN hose ends better than the Summit ones I used on the 2500.
-6AN PTFE was used for plumbing to the 46,000 BTU stacked plate cooler. PTFE lines are much harder to work with due to the 3 piece end collect design.

 

[Will L.]

Cant follow in the pictures- running hot oil to filter, then through cooler- or the other way around?

 

[jaydee1445]

Filter then cooler for both. Seemed to be arguments for both ways on web. I figured filtered oil would keep crud out of expensive cooler and hot oil would flow and filter better.
Down side is measuring hot oil temp at senders.