Resurecting New Engine

[Matt Bachand]

When I changed my pan I reached up and felt mine. I couldn't see it, but it sure felt like it moved as much as yours, so I want to know if its normal too.

 

[96 OILBURNER]

When you turn the Crank shaft, does the cam gear start to move immediately, or is there some delay?

 

[DieselSlug]

It turns immediately, there is not lag or delay (slack).....

 

[ak diesel driver]

Unless it's wore real bad you'd probably need a degree wheel and a dial indicator to tell.

 

[DieselSlug]

Yeah, its just the chain that feels like it has a lot of slack in it. I am going to get a new timing chain set for it anyway...

 

[bk95td]

I put a melling timing set on my 91 6.2. It wasn't alot tighter than the one that came off it with 260,000 miles. I put a cloyes timing set on my 95 6.5 and it was very snug. I'd go with the cloyes.

 

[ak diesel driver]

The other variable here could be if the engine has been align hone/bored. It will move the cam and crank closer together.

 

[DieselSlug]

Well, got a call today... Nothing like being more dissapointed..... Both my heads of the new engine have cracks in them....... So im at a stand still, sow i owe these guys for some work on totally junk heads. THe reason im doing this whole swap is to get rid of my current heads due to a rust issue..... Not a good day.....:icon_bs:

 

[DieselSlug]

One bit of good news for the day, i just recieved my optix pyro gauge.

 

[Matt Bachand]

Better than installing them up and finding out they junk after the fact.... Think positive.

 

[DieselSlug]

Well here are the pics of the cracks, thjere are a ton, the guy thinks the engine has been overheated. Still cost me 80 bucks for them to do the work on junk heads.....

 

[HighSierra86]

Well here are the pics of the cracks, thjere are a ton, the guy thinks the engine has been overheated. Still cost me 80 bucks for them to do the work on junk heads.....

When i did a valve job/ resurface of my 96' heads i found cracks very similar to yours. Now when i did those heads i was on a tight budget, and they made a slide in brass insert (looks like a 2" long bushing) that just creates a new wall for the coolant. The kit was specifically designed for the 6.2/6.5 engines. I opted to put one in between each set of valves just in case more cracked as well. Now i have yet to ever hear anyone mention these inserts, or the use of them. But i only had cracks between the valves, not on the seat like yours. Ive got 20k mi and about 4 years of heavy towing after this fix and have yet to have any problems.

Keep up the posting! looks like everything is coming along nicely. Ive enjoyed following what you've done with this truck since you bought it back on "the place". So good luck with everything

 

[DieselSlug]

Thank you high sierra!!. Money is going to slow me down a little now that i have to buy new heads. This will set me back about 700 bucks..:mad2: But some of the cracks are really bad.. Ratman told me about the "fix", but with the temperature swings up here, i need something that i "know" wont break. Im going to try and get some flush this weekend and flush the rusty system out with the old heads back on. THen dis-assemble again and start taking the bottom end apart. I will update you guys when possible. I am also going to try and install the ignition switch too...

 

[DieselSlug]

Ok, got the ignition system done in the truck, i am waithing on my battery quick disconnects that i cant find anywhere local. So after this post i am going to order them off the bay. Im not confident enough that i found the problem, so the quick connects will be my backup, in case i need a power shut down.

Here is the kicker: I think i may have found my problem. THe ignition siwtch is held to the column with two screws, and the holes on the igniotion switch make it "adjustable" up and down the column. So, i found the screws to be loose, so the switch moved back and forth. The rod that the key lock cylinder operates pushd forward and back with the console, so what i "think" was happenin was the key was pushing the switch up and down the console, so it temporarily locked in the start position when the ignition switch slid. It was a PITA, like everything else i try and do. But hopefully it will work....

 

[Brooklyn Tow]

Where's your brake light switch?

I'm asking for selfish reasons

 

[DieselSlug]

I couldnt tell yah, i would have to go look at my gm manuals. THats how i found the ignition switch n stuff. I just ordered two quick disconnect side battery post things off the bay. They will be here in two to four business days, so i guess i have to wait. Turns out i also only have one of the cables i broke when in "bionic" mode to shut the truck down. SO i need to go out and buy the drivers side negative battery cable too...

 

[Brooklyn Tow]

SO i need to go out and buy the drivers side negative battery cable too...

If you have the tools, make one.....Cheaper and better quality.

 

[Burning oil]

Where's your brake light switch?

I'm asking for selfish reasons

They are behind the brake pedal arm, close to the steering column.

 

[Brooklyn Tow]

They are behind the brake pedal arm, close to the steering column.

Not on my 89 454.

Got a pic/diagram?

 

[Burning oil]

Its got to be on the brake pedal somewhere. Is this a new truck to you? if yes maybe its just missing?
I have a 93 that should be the same as yours. In 95 they changed. I will get a picture unless some beats me to it.