You know the most consistent things here is two different pumps being built by the same builder doing the same thing on two consecutive firing circuits. He thinks I left it set for two long with calibration fluid in it before I installed it. So it sat in my air conditioned house (which stays between 67* & 73* 24/7 364 a year) for 4 months before I installed it. So since I feel I need a spare pump in the truck to drive it more than the 300 miles that my triple A plus RV will tow it home for me. How do I prep a pump to store it in the florida heat and humidity, sorry my truck doesn't get the same climate control that I do. LOL!
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P400 in the Burb install
- Thread starter spdgofast
- Start date
Yea, imagine if I pulled the injectors and hooked up my starter trigger and let it rip without a pump housing with shaft bolted in? Cracked aluminum gear housing at the least right?
smokymtn65
Well-Known Member
@spdgofast LOL I paid up my premium AAA account before our 4000 mile trip out west..
Hey can anyone tell me if there is a difference in the Stanadyne DB2 pumps for a 6.5 and a 6.2? I don't mean inside specs and flow specs, I mean like bolt on ability, are the fittings on a 6.2 the same as the 6.5 DB series pumps?
Like is a... DB2829-4877 - 04877 - 10149620 - 6.2 Liter 1991 Heavy Duty CKRVP Truck G Van (Alt.) Supersedes DB2829-4981
The same as a... DB2831-4911 - 04911 - 10183901 - 6.5 Liter 1992-93 Heavy Duty C/KP - Auto/Man (Turbo)(200 HP) Superseded by DB2831-6381
Or a....DB2833-4974 - 04974 - 14098680 - 6.2 Liter Marine (250 H.P.) DB2833-6284
Are the fittings on the head different on the 6.2 pumps, I don't think so but I get these dang pump guys telling me that the 6.2 and the 6.5 pumps are different physically.
From what I remember when I converted my 94 DS pump truck to a DB2 Marine 4 plunger pump I had a 1993 Chevy K20 with a 6.5 which is a DB pump and I used the VIN off of that truck to go to my local GM dealer and get parts like the injector lines.
I'm just thinking of buying a cheap rebuild to just throw on my truck to see what happens and DB2829 pumps for the 6.2 are the cheapest. It looks like the DB2831 pumps are all listed for the 6.5s and are like $200.00 more at least at Pensacola Diesel here in Florida which is one of the least expensive, but I hear the work is cheap also but for what I'm doing I figured it would work.
I don't know just trying to figure out the problem. Mel at Conestoga thinks it sat to long in the AC, and said send it back to him, I wouldn't be surprised if I did that it would take another two months before I get it back, probably with another bill, and when I put it back on and it will probably do the same thing.
Like is a... DB2829-4877 - 04877 - 10149620 - 6.2 Liter 1991 Heavy Duty CKRVP Truck G Van (Alt.) Supersedes DB2829-4981
The same as a... DB2831-4911 - 04911 - 10183901 - 6.5 Liter 1992-93 Heavy Duty C/KP - Auto/Man (Turbo)(200 HP) Superseded by DB2831-6381
Or a....DB2833-4974 - 04974 - 14098680 - 6.2 Liter Marine (250 H.P.) DB2833-6284
Are the fittings on the head different on the 6.2 pumps, I don't think so but I get these dang pump guys telling me that the 6.2 and the 6.5 pumps are different physically.
From what I remember when I converted my 94 DS pump truck to a DB2 Marine 4 plunger pump I had a 1993 Chevy K20 with a 6.5 which is a DB pump and I used the VIN off of that truck to go to my local GM dealer and get parts like the injector lines.
I'm just thinking of buying a cheap rebuild to just throw on my truck to see what happens and DB2829 pumps for the 6.2 are the cheapest. It looks like the DB2831 pumps are all listed for the 6.5s and are like $200.00 more at least at Pensacola Diesel here in Florida which is one of the least expensive, but I hear the work is cheap also but for what I'm doing I figured it would work.
I don't know just trying to figure out the problem. Mel at Conestoga thinks it sat to long in the AC, and said send it back to him, I wouldn't be surprised if I did that it would take another two months before I get it back, probably with another bill, and when I put it back on and it will probably do the same thing.
They will ALL interchange....
I have one that is sucking air somewhere on the housing, it runs but throughs the timing off a little and minute bubbles in the return line if you want to try it...
That's what I thought, so the DS4 is when the injector line fitting changes, correct?
Thanks Chris, I may take you up on that, I just want to install it and start it and see how it runs, I wont even drive it. If it runs with the same two dead holes then it's something else but I would bet $ it will clear up. I would be willing to pay you and obviously pay for all the shipping charges.
shipping both ways is all I would ask.. pm me a name and address...
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Yes the ds4 is where the injection line connections changed.
FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
Smart indeed!
Rockabillyrat
SlIgHtLy StUpId.
I'm late to this party.... any way I'm going to say you have a leak internal in the H&R. 2 and 7 are next to each other in the firing order. So the discharge ports are next to one another. The tolerances are in the .0001" when it comes to H&R clearance. It dont take much to have a high pressure internal leak. It could also be on the charge port side. Either way I bet you issues is somewhere in there.
Also calibration fluid should be good for a few years. I've installed pumps that sat for 5 years with zero issues. As long as you store them in a dry place.
As far as the difference in H&R assemblies. They all interchange but there is a big difference internally other than the plunger size. The. 310 has 60* charge ports vs 30* on the .290. Also the discharge ports are 25% larger on the .310. And there are charge port accumulators in the .310 H&R. The .330 H&R is the same as the .310 but it did get a second charge port added to it. So if your after more fuel volume be the .330 or 4 plunger H&R are the way to go.
Hot rodding these pumps is more than simply installing bigger plungers. Obviously this is where you start. But there is a reason N8IN8ORS pump put out more volume. There are alot of tweaking that can be done to these pumps. But to do it correctly a test bench is needed.
Also calibration fluid should be good for a few years. I've installed pumps that sat for 5 years with zero issues. As long as you store them in a dry place.
As far as the difference in H&R assemblies. They all interchange but there is a big difference internally other than the plunger size. The. 310 has 60* charge ports vs 30* on the .290. Also the discharge ports are 25% larger on the .310. And there are charge port accumulators in the .310 H&R. The .330 H&R is the same as the .310 but it did get a second charge port added to it. So if your after more fuel volume be the .330 or 4 plunger H&R are the way to go.
Hot rodding these pumps is more than simply installing bigger plungers. Obviously this is where you start. But there is a reason N8IN8ORS pump put out more volume. There are alot of tweaking that can be done to these pumps. But to do it correctly a test bench is needed.
Thanks to Chris with Twisted Steel Performance I've got my trouble shooting pump today and I got my Conestoga DB2833 Omega Moose Pump off along with the lines which will be cleaned with a brake clean and air pressure before I install Chris's pump with the injectors rebuilt by Conestoga. I like to completely remove the lines when replacing a IP so as to not bend any lines. We'll see what happens when I fire it. I got a handful of cash that says it should run on all 8 if Chris says the pump is good. With any luck I'll get this installed and fired tomorrow. Note the tag on the Omega Moose is stamped DB235 which is incorrect as far as I'm concerned.
Attachments
I'll take a bag full of that first pic....
Well what's the verdict ?
You wouldn't believe my bad luck the post on the starter solenoid for the starter wire signal freaking broke of while hooking up my starter trigger wire, ( if it weren't for bad luck I wouldn't have no luck at all), I think there is a country song to that affect. I'm going to get that issue fixed tomorrow one way or another (new starter or whatever). Trust me I'm anxious to see the outcome.
DieselAmateur
She ain't revved 'til the rods are thrown...
Join the no luck but bad luck club...
My starter got blown off my block last fall from a blown connecting rod, but the solenoid is still intact, happy to ship it to ya if that would help at all...
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
I think thr solenoids can be purchased separate of the starter.