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P400 in the Burb install

I would like to publish these for future reference. Note that the last build sheet states the pump was tested with injector pop pressures at 2250 PSI.
 

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Interesting they got 18 more cc at 3200 rpm out of the .330 head and rotor. I see the note about fill ports. I don't remember if the .330 head has 4 ports? And so was the .354 head and rotor built off of a .290 or .310 h&r with 2 fill ports? Another interesting thing is that they didn't put any flow results on my invoice.....or in writing at all, but the guy that built it (Joel) gave me some numbers via email. I sure wish this had gone smoother for you. It's disappointing for sure.
 
n8in8or said:
Interesting they got 18 more cc at 3200 rpm out of the .330 head and rotor. I see the note about fill ports. I don't remember if the .330 head has 4 ports? And so was the .354 head and rotor built off of a .290 or .310 h&r with 2 fill ports? Another interesting thing is that they didn't put any flow results on my invoice.....or in writing at all, but the guy that built it (Joel) gave me some numbers via email. I sure wish this had gone smoother for you. It's disappointing for sure.
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Nate, I believe that the .350 plunger pump started from this pump number DB2833-4974 - 04974 - 14098680 - 6.2 Liter Marine (250 H.P.) DB2833-6284, I specifically asked for test flow numbers in writing. Can you tell me what injector pop pressure you are running with your Moose Pump?
 
spdgofast said:
Nate, I believe that the .350 plunger pump started from this pump number DB2833-4974 - 04974 - 14098680 - 6.2 Liter Marine (250 H.P.) DB2833-6284, I specifically asked for test flow numbers in writing. Can you tell me what injector pop pressure you are running with your Moose Pump?
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Ah, so they started with a .330 pump. So the fill ports should have been the same.

When they first built my pump I had 2500psi marine injectors installed (this is how I had them configured with my DS4). I was having some hot start issues though, so I repopped them to about 1750 (I say ABOUT because I popped them at home with an eBay tester and the gauge has a lot of flutter). That helped hot starts a lot, but then it got cold-blooded below 50 degrees. Interestingly, I dyno'd both pop pressures and they tested within a couple horsepower of each other (which is well within testing tolerances since I dyno'd them months apart).
 
Will L. said:
Doing a "hot rod" pump, I get the no warranty thing, but I would think that would be once you have a few miles on it. 2 dead holes and not fixing that is BS. That ruins their reputation and costs them future customers.
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I disagree, here is my point of view... my coating and motor building is ALL performance and high modifications, would i even consider a no warranty policy, no, i warranty ALL my work... The no warranty is a cop out....
 
Thats why you are having people come to you without any concern other than if their wife finds out where the $ went is into the truck- haha.
Most the hod rod shops around here dont do warranty, but if they sold stuff that didn’t work right day one, they would be gone in a hurry.

On a pump I would think at least a 30 day warranty.
We need more pump builders that know the db.
 
Will L. said:
Thats why you are having people come to you without any concern other than if their wife finds out where the $ went is into the truck- haha.
Most the hod rod shops around here dont do warranty, but if they sold stuff that didn’t work right day one, they would be gone in a hurry.

On a pump I would think at least a 30 day warranty.
We need more pump builders that know the db.
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Yep, that boss lady thing can be troubling.........
 
Hey guys, here is a copy of the email I sent Conestoga regarding my latest test....

Good morning Mel, so I had time to do a couple of tests yesterday afternoon so here is what I did... First I removed the lines from the back of the pump on the two dead cylinders 2 & 7 and I ran clear tubing into the clear plastic bottles in the attached photo. I then fired the engine and let it run for about a minute, as you can see in the photo the # 2 put out about 33% or more less than cylinder 7. note this test was done with no spillage. I also put my finger in the top of the two disconnected injectors to check for cylinder pressure coming back through the injectors and there was no pressure whatsoever. I then installed 2 good used injectors that I had checked and pop tested and they pop at 2000 psi. Engine still ran on 6 cylinders with the same two dead cylinders.
 

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Compression test if you are bored and just want to know while the truck is down for a ip replacement.

Well, I suppose you could ensure the injection lines are not plugged, kinked, etc. I severely doubt with your knowledge you kinked a line but that’s about the only thing left that isn’t fault of pump builder.


maybe remove all 8 lines which have to come off anyways. Then put some clear pvc tubing from hardware store over the fittings into 8 different bottles. (Or just use the injection lines if already proven no line damage) Remove glowplugs for compression test and so engine spins easy. Hook up battery charger and crank away until bottles are full.

After the results you got from them, might be a good test to show what you ARE GOING TO DO to the new pump when he sends it. That way he takes the time to do it right. That is a basic yet CRUCIAL part of what they are supposed to do in testing when setting up a pump.

I mean- that is how they are supposed to get the measurements of what the ACTUAL OUTPUT really is.
If 2 cylinders are off from the other 6, that is huge loss in cc3.

Post him a link to this thread just so he knows there is a crap ton of very interested potential customers here. Me included. After mine is back together and broke in a few thousand miles, I want to feed a big boy turbo with a proper ip. We all understand mistakes happen. How he handles it is what counts. Please keep us posted.
 
I guess I forgot to share with you guys that when I removed the last pump to send back to him, I installed a pump housing with a shaft still in so I could crank the engine without damaging the pump gear or jumping teeth. I then did a compression test and pulled the valve covers and removed the rockers and did leak down test and everything was just about perfect, like I don't think I had a 2 lb difference on any of the cylinders.
 
spdgofast said:
I guess I forgot to share with you guys that when I removed the last pump to send back to him, I installed a pump housing with a shaft still in so I could crank the engine without damaging the pump gear or jumping teeth. I then did a compression test and pulled the valve covers and removed the rockers and did leak down test and everything was just about perfect, like I don't think I had a 2 lb difference on any of the cylinders.
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You did real good on those steps.
 
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