ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
Last I checked they were more expensive tan a new starter. There are some cheap Chinese ones out there now though
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P400 in the Burb install
- Thread starter spdgofast
- Start date
DieselAmateur
She ain't revved 'til the rods are thrown...
Yup pretty ridiculous that the solenoid is more expensive than a new unit...or maybe it's time to upgrade to a powermaster
I found one for $54.00 today, I'm going to run a separate wire and tie wrap it on the firewall some where so I can just hook up the trigger to the battery or the positive post on the firewall by the fuel pump relay so it's just easier to use. I had a busy day trying to make $ so no work on the Burb today, tomorrow maybe the same but I may have time in the afternoon to get the starter back on along with Chris's pump.
So I got my starter issue fixed today but let me backup a bit. So I received Chris's IP and before I installed it I shot this video of the engine running with the Conestoga pump missing on cylinders 2 and 7. Well I can't get the video uploaded here so I'm moving on, it was just a video of a 6.5 running on 6 cylinders. So then I remove the pump and install Chris's pump, but when I'm using my handheld starter trigger to bump the motor over to install the 3 bolts on the IP gear it looks like the gear is not turning as it should with the motor. WTF I think another sheared IP cam gear key way!? So I attempted to install a dedicated trigger wire from the starter solenoid and the post broke off, so that was a few day setback with all of the other stuff I have going on. So when I see this I remove Chris's pump right away and install the pump housing that I use to keep the gear in place and able to safely turn over the engine but I take a cutoff wheel and make a slot in the end of the broken shaft, see photo's. So after I do my little trigger wire add on and bump the motor the IP gear is not turning with the engine. So I then put a large screw driver in the slot pictured in the shaft only pump housing and I can turn the IP gear so obliviously sheared key way again. So I tear everything I just did back apart here are pics of the sheared key way.
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I also wanted everyone to see how the IP cam gear does not "grab" 100% of the key way. Here are some pics of the gear drive gear and an old IP cam gear fitted on my old motor, check out how it fits or lack of fitting properly. But this is how everything fits on the P400 and my old motor. I will get some pics with caliper measurements tomorrow comparing the OEM set up on my old motor and the P400 as well as the gear drive setup to see if there is any differences but I'll bet they are the same. And when I pulled everything apart to get to the IP cam gear I found it finger loose, and I cleaned the cam bolt hole and the cam gear bolt thoroughly with brake cleaner, blew out and dry with air and applied red lock tight and torqued the cam gear bolt to 120 ft lbs, which I believe is over torqued so if anyone has a link with the 6.5 torque specs, I could use them, I have some printed but I would like to verify before going any further. And keep in mind I've only ran the motor maybe a total of 10 minutes, and never more than maybe 2 to 3 minutes at a time because I never added coolant with anticipated suspicion of a problem. I still think the problem is in the pump but I really don't see how the cam gear bolt can loosen unless it is properly fit and torqued but when the key way shears it causes the bolt to be loose. Keep in mind the IP cam gear pictured here is from my old motor on my old motor, this is not the gear on my P400, but the solid gear drive gear is the actual gear I'm using on my P400. And this is the gear I had the brass thrust washer machined for and it is pretty spot on with it's measurements so I don't think that is the problem. I don't know, maybe just too much head pressure in the pump for some reason?
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Twisted Steel Performance
Anything worth doing is worth overdoing.
I have lots of info in my site to download, torque specs is one of them... yes, 125 ft lbs
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Performance Ceramic coating
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twistedsteelperformance.com
Twisted Steel Performance
Anything worth doing is worth overdoing.
I have found that break clean leaves a film on stuff, I use acetone now....
Your the man Chris, I shot a video of me turning the Conestoga IP with the inspection port cover off but I have not been able to upload it here, but I don't think the H&R are seized. I have some good photo's of head and rotor that was seized from the first pump but I'm thinking I need to start another thread as to not complicate this build thread?
Twisted Steel Performance
Anything worth doing is worth overdoing.
I suspect something else is going on other than a head & rotor, might need to dig a bit deeper in the drive gears...
Twisted Steel Performance
Anything worth doing is worth overdoing.
Upload it to youtube then post a link here...
Oh just an FYI I installed a new key way purchased from real4wd.com . Should I order a new cam bolt? I really don't see that as the problem, all problems started with a Conestoga built pump and lowering of injector pop pressures from 2700 which it ran great just had hard hot start issues to 2250. The freaking .350 plunger pump ran great, in hind sight I should have just lowered the injector pop pressure to 2250 psi. and tried that. I'm getting real good at tearing down the front of the engine to the drive gears and reinstalling everything. I'm considering running the engine without the water pump and front gear case cover on it next time, anyone done that yet?
But remember the first Conestoga pump was installed with stock P400 timing chain and gear set, only after that i just went ahead and put the gear drive in.
Twisted Steel Performance
Anything worth doing is worth overdoing.
I just noticed in one of the pics the front cover is still installed, where is the pin that pushes in the center of the pump, shouldn't it be resting on the tab on the front cover?
Here is the video of the motor running just before removing the Conestoga pump to install Chris's test pump.
That is just the pump housing with a shaft in it just to keep the gear in place while turning the engine over, do you understand this?
Here is the 2nd Conestoga rebuild with the new .330 H&R turning pump after 10 minutes of idle run time = sheared cam key way again.
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Twisted Steel Performance
Anything worth doing is worth overdoing.
You might contact these folks, they do Fords but might also handle GM also....
www.idiperformance.com
HOME | R&D IDI PERFORMANCE
R&D IDI Performance | Your source for high quality IDI parts
www.idiperformance.com
You might contact these folks, they do Fords but might also handle GM also....
HOME | R&D IDI PERFORMANCE
R&D IDI Performance | Your source for high quality IDI parts
Yea, I spoke to him, he'll most likely get my pump, I don't have much confidence with Conestoga anymore.
Has anyone run one of these motors without the front gear case and harmonic balancer? I would imagine it would shoot oil out of the valley holes all over the place. When I put it together the last time before I put the water pump and cover on I cranked the engine and watched the gears to make sure they were running true and everything looked good. Well I'll be off the air for a while, I'm going to dive back in and get every thing cleaned and prepped and reassembled.