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O7 Dmax your thoughts

Oh I knew you were pulling my leg Simon. :hihi:
For the record, the only thing I ever had somebody else do on mine was the front end rebuild from parts I bought. Just because I'm still somewhat physically compromised from a combination of old age and after effects of cancer treatments. Rest has all been on me.

Sent from my SCH-I535
 
Went too have other look...could not start it .batts stone dead from sitting all winter .Owner will buy and install new batts.
Truck needs a good cleaning, Last run was down a muddy oilfield road and it shows.Body in pics look worse than it is
All maintenance done on time and on record,..no mayor repairs were ever needed.Owner assures power train is in excellent condition.
Fuel additive with every tank since new.
rocker panel and door bottoms have paint let go and has surface rust, rest of body rustfree.
Box is another story,BTW it is a long box..pics will show (truck was hemmed in between 2 other vehicles, i could not a straight shot from either side)
BTW engine is common rail, 6 sp allison, tow package,c/w tune . c/w New rear seats..never used.

Chewed him down to 4 grand and a side of bison. Sale depends on satisfactory test drive sometimes next week.
What you say
 

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Are you sure he's not going to have you arrested for stealing it for that price? Seriously, you could part it out for alot more than $4000(and that's US $'s).
 
Been worked pretty hard. Those are aftermarket flares. Still. .. 4 grand plus the side is a steal. Hope it runs good. It probably will just fine.

Sent from my SCH-I535
 
Around here a side of our certified natural angus runs near 1K out the door from the top local butcher (if we were to sell that then you bet it aint cheap!). Not sure if bison is premium but being niche market I'd say so.

IMO that truck is worth every penny no matter which way you spin it. It is an LT3 package w/ leather and maybe bose, seats and minor interior is fairly cheap. Repaint the rockers and lower doors (maybe w/ bed liner), and get nice matching pyo or quality wheels. If all else fails you easily have a $10-12K truck after cleaning it up, Loaded LBZ SRW 3500 4x4's are hard to come by.
 
tanman_2006 said:
Around here a side of our certified natural angus runs near 1K out the door from the top local butcher (if we were to sell that then you bet it aint cheap!). Not sure if bison is premium but being niche market I'd say so.

IMO that truck is worth every penny no matter which way you spin it. It is an LT3 package w/ leather and maybe bose, seats and minor interior is fairly cheap. Repaint the rockers and lower doors (maybe w/ bed liner), and get nice matching pyo or quality wheels. If all else fails you easily have a $10-12K truck after cleaning it up, Loaded LBZ SRW 3500 4x4's are hard to come by.
Click to expand...

Good bison butcher bulls go at the moment for $4 lb on the rail x +/- 550 HH weight makes $2200, 1/2 that is 1100. Truck owner has to pay the butcher for cutting and wrapping .065 cent a lb
Retail that 225 lb would probably fetch $2000 so the fella is still getting the asking price but raising the bull might cost me a 1/4 of that $2200.
lol
 
I know what you mean but I look at my cattle as the value of the product, we dont butcher enough for me to know exact prices but I do know ~1K for a side isnt unusual.

I trade alot of work out for hay and services. I have traded getting a pond built, a couple pieces of equipment, and other things for hay and baling hay. Bartering goods is my favorite way of business.
 
Heck of a deal.

As far as changing fan belts, I'm doing one on a 6.7 Cummins I'm putting a bale deck on, the Dmax is easy.
 
Went for test drive today runs like a raped ape and shifts and handles good but i noticed a vibration in the drive line.
There don't seem to be nothing to hold the truck back going down hill ,foot off the go pedal, feels like it's in mexican overdrive.What's up with that!?
Trucks whole frame is caked in dried up mud, hard to see a thing.

Things i found that needs attention, probably some more that i don't know off...yet.:agreed:
Check engine light on steady,.i pulled 1 code,..no 5 glowplug..(how hard to get at?)
Oil pressure is low at idle (1/4 of the gauge) but the needle is straight up when cruising...is that good or so so?
Drive line(steady bearing effed) Owner claims he did not know!,,yeah yeah..
Tie rod ends need replacing and at least one lower ball joint as well ( new parts in the cab), can do myself,...but...Alignment costs
Brakes work good but ABS and brake lite on steady,.. broke wire hanging under the Pass side front(could be from the ABS wheel sensor?)
Fuel cooler dripping fuel,..dirty as hell, hard to tell were it leaks from, leak has been there awhile.
4X4 low doesn't work,..light keeps flashing.
Body below the trim needs repaint front to back. Dent in dr side door and a bit of damage on corner of cab same side
Box needs a lot of work, couple dents and the rails are cracked badly on top (toolbox damage)
Interior head liner is really dirty i don't think it can be got clean,..it don't matter to me but it brings the value of the truck down.

Judged by the above,..you guys still think this truck is cheap??:rolleyes5:
I ain't so sure.:skep:
I did not shake hands today.
 
Gp's are fairly easy to get to

Oil press sounds normal

I wouldn't worry about the 4x4 until it is cleaned up and you check the fluid, probably the selector motor but I'd check fluid condition first.

U-joints, ball joints, tie rods, idler, pitman, etc is normal for high miles.

Abs light is from the unplugged sensor or bad wheel bearing. Not hard to change.

Needs a flat bed anyways so the busted bed is no biggie.

Clean up and bed liner the rocker panels.

After all that is it a screaming deal? Probably not. But you will still be under book value for a truck that you have thoroughly inspected and it will last a long time.

It's all up to you though.


source unknown
 
Yeah. Pretty much what Tanner said. 4 lo will flash if you don't try to engage it in the right sequence. About 25-30 psi oil is normal hot at idle.

Sent from my SCH-I535
 
GM switched to a high volume, low pressure oil pump for these trucks. Instead of being squirted through a straw, it is being pumped through a garden hose.
 
RI Chevy Silveradoman said:
GM switched to a high volume, low pressure oil pump for these trucks. Instead of being squirted through a straw, it is being pumped through a garden hose.
Click to expand...

The DURAMAX holds better oil pressure than a 6.5 does. And the newer LML has a 25% larger oil pump than the previous generations have. My 6.5 held about 50 when cold at idle, my DURAMAX holds a good 70. Hot idle they are about the same, but when I get on it the DURAMAX goes up to 55-60 whereas the 6.5 topped out at 45-50. And my 6.5 was an early non squirter engine, the later ones held even less oil pressure. What gets most people with the DURAMAX and oil pressure is the fact the gauge reads so high. Nobody complained about early DMAX's where the gauge topped out at 80, but later ones that read up to 120 caused people to think it was running low oil pressure.
 
Well, for better or for worse i own it now:eek:
4 grand + a side of bison(he pays for the cutting and wrapping) and i get a free 13 journal crank grind for a 6 cyl diesel i am in the process of rebuilding.:agreed:
 
Congrats Simon, I think you did well.

Racedaymechanic has a thread on DIY alignments.
 
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