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O7 Dmax your thoughts

bison

Well-Known Member
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Location
Near Peace River-Alberta
Was at my local engine shop today to pick up a crankshaft they ground for me.
I chatted with the shop owner( a guy i know for 20 + years) for a bit talking 6.5 versus cummiins versus Dmax
Then he said, i got something for you for a deal i bet you'll be interested in.
Turns out he's got a O7 chevy 3500 single wheel crewcab 4x4 shortbox all leather int just under 400 km on it.
Runs good, drives well but has a bit rust here and there (mainly the box)box is cracked on the rails and dented and worn from carrying tool boxes and engines and such.driver seat is in bad shape as the leather is tore up with a big chunk missing on the outside
One owner truck as the guy had bought it brand new and used it for his business
It got a heavy custom front bumper with a winch as well.
He offered it for 6 grand but is willing to trade partly for a freezer full of bison meat(now that i have plenty all is it still on the hoof:))
I don't know a thing about D-max, please fill me in a bit.
How is the price sound?

I don't really need an other truck or another headache but some extra pulling power may not hurt.
 
400K KM is ~220 miles right (WAG from the hip).

06-07 is about the best out there outa the box. Most they need is lift pump, exhaust, EGR blocker (not usually a problem stock though), and tune to delete EGR (doesnt have to be extreme. At that point of have a truck that will out pull any 6.5L and have 1/2 the issues.

6K isnt bad rust pending.

I didnt think they made a short bed 3500 until recently.
 
That is cheap! :agreed:

Yank of all the emission crap and you have a nice running truck.

You can purchase new seat covers that look factory for fairly cheap. They are somewhat easy to install.

400k = 248,548 miles? If so that is not bad as long as he properly did all maintenance on it.

I have yet seen a 2007 duramax in my area with 248+ miles any where near $7K.
 
I say go for it, my truck has that many kms and is 12 yrs older.

Only down side to a Dmax is they are harder to work one, all newer engines are like that however.
 
That's a fair price...With proper maintenance having been done. LBZ motor in that is pretty trouble free. For what you're gonna do Simon, you won't need much changes. EGR block, fresh fluids all around, PCV reroute and beautify it you'll be cruising while pulling.

Sent from my SCH-I535
 
That's a fair price...With proper maintenance having been done. LBZ motor in that is pretty trouble free. For what you're gonna do Simon, you won't need much changes. EGR block, fresh fluids all around, PCV reroute and beautify it you'll be cruising while pulling.

Sent from my SCH-I535

I agree with Mike suggestions.

You'll love it.
 
Now you got me all exited!!! :cool:,.....but but but i have already 4 trucks :eek:and and and my 98 is running sooooo sweet right now and the engine is barely run in with 40 k km.

Jeez,.. i wish i never seen that damm truck today :mad2::)
 
Cmon Simon, you know you want to.;)

For your sake I hope it isn't black, you know what they say about that.:D
 
You won't enjoy replacing a fan belt either.

Pretty tricky without removing anything, if your patient you can manipulate it around the harmonic balancer fan pulley etc.. Then use your right hand to slip it over the alternator pulley while unloading the tensioner pulley.

I kept mine simple and installed a blocker plate and EFI as I have visual inspections here in Arizona for the EGR cooler, cat, governor test, and a CEL light check and just passed emissions a few months ago. Parts are pretty pricey...
 
Serp belt takes a few minutes. ;0 Since I got rid of the useless inner shroud...
Parts? What expensive parts? I'm 2 weeks from joining the quarter million mile club and I've replaced 4 GPs @ $25 each, a front hub, brakes, 1 trans cooler line, batteries... that's it besides maintenance. Maint is a bit more costly but the other stuff I did is comparable to your 6.5s.
 
Yeah but he would be buying one with ton of miles already so he would be much closer to buying those expensive parts than you were when you bought it new.
 
I say look at it from purely an economic stand point. Make the trade, then sell the truck. How much do you profit, and was that profit worth your time and the risk of issues? If you should drive the truck for a while and decide to keep it rather than sell it, fine.

I often tell people there are a lot of good deals out there, but it was only a good deal if you were going to buy it anyways. I can buy soy beans right now for 1/10 the normal price, a good deal so I should get it right? Wrong, I don't eat them. They would sit on a shelf then be discarded. I might eat a few since I have them, but all most all would go to the trash. Now if I buy them and can eat a few, and sell the balance for a profit worth my time involved then it could be ok, otherwise I'll just stick with my refried beans at normal price that none will be wasted.

my 2 cents. Time for a burrito, I'm hungry for some reason.
 
Simon you'll love it til you go to buy parts for it.

No more expensive than any other parts out there.

You won't enjoy replacing a fan belt either.

I did mine with the shroud on and it took all of about 15 minutes.

All in all, these 2006/2007 Duramax trucks are about as good as it gets. Even with that many miles on it, it will outrun your 6.5. Allison 6 speed. ;) It will be a night and day comparison. Maybe try and make a low offer to the guy and see if he bites?
 
No more expensive than any other parts out there.


Buddy of mine has a shop and I've seen prices no way you'll ever convince me dmax parts are about the same. and no I'm not talking about the injectors but that is probably the biggest difference. might come close if you used Heath's pricing
 
Parts average

Thermostats ----------------------$80.00

Injectors to purchase only one---$300.00

Serpentine belt--------------------$50.00

Glowplugs purchase only---------$100.00

Front hubs each ------------------$200.00

Fuel filter --------------------------$35.00

Allison spin on---------------------$15.00

Lower radiator hose---------------$90.00

Upper radiator hose---------------$30.00

Water pump-----------------------$200.00
Replacing the water pump a whole different issue...........:eek:
 
Parts average

Thermostats ----------------------$80.00

Injectors to purchase only one---$300.00

Serpentine belt--------------------$50.00

Glowplugs purchase only---------$100.00

Front hubs each ------------------$200.00

Fuel filter --------------------------$35.00

Allison spin on---------------------$15.00

Lower radiator hose---------------$90.00

Upper radiator hose---------------$30.00

Water pump-----------------------$200.00
Replacing the water pump a whole different issue...........:eek:

I don't mind doing the water pumps. Pull the radiator out and take the time to clean it out good, and you can go in with an impact and run the balancer bolt out. Plus with the radiator out there is all kinds of room to work. And unless water pumps have went way up, I think I paid $125 for the last one I bought from GM for an LBZ. The stats can be had from ROCKAUTO for less, and are the same parts(but they don't need changed but about every 7-8 years). The GOOD RACOR filters can be pricey unless you buy them in bulk(GM wants $70 each for them list price, but if you buy 3 at a time many places will sell them for $32 a piece). I buy ALLISON spin ons from ALLISON for $8.30 a piece VS GM's asking over $50. The belt and hub bearings are about the same price for either the newer GMT-800 or GMT-400. And like has been said, they just don't need much maintence normally.

My only regret with my BURB was going with an LB7. Yes it made it easier for the wiring and functionality, but I sure do wish I had an LLY or newer so I could have a VVT turbo and a turbo brake for towing(not to mention being able to flip a switch and go from a toned down low boost econ tune, to one with the vanes turned up set on kill).
 
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