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Moose Call...

Will L. said:
How do the bolts look that go through the backing plate into the pump- any wear on those?
Ip mounting bolt length?
Click to expand...

No wear on water pump bolts. No witness marks on the sides of the gear indicating anything rubbing. Best I can guess is it's from having several pumps swapped out. The last useless pump had a lot of trouble going in as it wouldn't get the gear on properly at first. It wanted to wag/wiggle the pump locking the engine up when I tightened the pump bolts up. This cockeyed engagement of the gear could have caused the cover scratches and picked up material, or even chipped the gears from misalignment, to run through the gear set. Several tries of installing it and test fitting the spare IP gear I had laying around finally got it installed.

Oil change, due anyway from coolant contamination, may indicate other debris.

Progress:

The timing set looks small vs. the IP gear set (and chain sprocket.) Checked clearance to the cover by carefully bolting it on without a gasket and reaching in and feeling both gear drive axles still move. You don't want to trap them between the block and cover. I have a spare cover if there wasn't clearance and "crack"...

ts.jpg

5 IP's, paperweight 5.9 turbo, and a spare head... WP mounted. The water pump backing plate still has the WP shaft outline in it from the Elk encounter where it got "hammered". Yeah that locked that water pump up...

wp.jpg
 
Will L. said:
Well, can’t say you never been Elk hunting!

Remember with the timing gears to use gaskets instead of just permatex on components for proper depth of dogbone.
Click to expand...

Patch has more Elk than most hunters guns!

Yeah gaskets and high temp orange RTV on each side. RTV alone isn't enough for the crossover to head. Need to figure out how to keep that from leaking every couple years.
 
WarWagon said:
Patch has more Elk than most hunters guns!

Yeah gaskets and high temp orange RTV on each side. RTV alone isn't enough for the crossover to head. Need to figure out how to keep that from leaking every couple years.
Click to expand...
You put more miles on Patch than I put on my Tahoe, but I use the gold spray Permatex stuff on my crossover gaskets amd never have any leaks.
 
Permatex “the right stuff”.
It’s the only sealant certified by all the major manufacturers. I have built tons of engines including 6.5s using only front and rear mai seals, head gasket, and the right stuff. No leaks.

When I do mine this time, I will use gaskets for spacing of timing gear dog bone, but a thin wipe of right stuff on both sides of the gasket.
I use right stuff on my crossover, no leaks.

Sustained 450 temp, something like 15 minutes at 500. Sensor safe, impervious to atf, all oils except gas and diesel. Give it a shot, you’ll get hooked like I did.
 
Will L. said:
Permatex “the right stuff”.
It’s the only sealant certified by all the major manufacturers. I have built tons of engines including 6.5s using only front and rear mai seals, head gasket, and the right stuff. No leaks.

When I do mine this time, I will use gaskets for spacing of timing gear dog bone, but a thin wipe of right stuff on both sides of the gasket.
I use right stuff on my crossover, no leaks.

Sustained 450 temp, something like 15 minutes at 500. Sensor safe, impervious to atf, all oils except gas and diesel. Give it a shot, you’ll get hooked like I did.
Click to expand...
I use The Right Stuff on everything but the crossover and the rear coolant block off plates for some reason. You’re right, I’m hooked on the stuff and use it whenever I can (it’s really nice for diff covers). The only downside is that it makes valve cover and oil pan removal no fun at all!
 
Will L. said:
Permatex “the right stuff”.
It’s the only sealant certified by all the major manufacturers. I have built tons of engines including 6.5s using only front and rear mai seals, head gasket, and the right stuff. No leaks.

When I do mine this time, I will use gaskets for spacing of timing gear dog bone, but a thin wipe of right stuff on both sides of the gasket.
I use right stuff on my crossover, no leaks.

Sustained 450 temp, something like 15 minutes at 500. Sensor safe, impervious to atf, all oils except gas and diesel. Give it a shot, you’ll get hooked like I did.
Click to expand...
I must have got a bad batch. Doing a terrible little job, intake on wifeys 88 Buick, 2.8 V6, warming it up good, did not even get it out of the garage, intake started leaking oil. darn.
I had gooped the intake up then bolted it right down, maybe I should have give it several hours before torqueing bolts. IDK
I had used the right stuff before on all kinds of gaskets, never had a problem one. Buick manifold and block had the signs of the right stuff on both surfaces too.
Why I like to use the no.2 on coolant gaskets, easier to remove down the road. LOL
 
Oh, I dont bother with most gaskets. Saves $ and works better. I will use some gaskets in certain situations. My sons dodge 5.9 gasser had leaking valve cover- the rubber ones were about $10 for felpro so did that this time.

On 6.5 I know I said only head gaskets, but lied- forgot about the IP gasket. Nothing but the gasket there for timing set up. Which leads me back on track from this derail -

@WarWagon What’s the latest on the IP install?
 
The drone of patch muffled by the turbo and glasspack like muffler gets old on long trips. Not going to be easy to hear gear noise. Esp over the 45 MPH howl of the rear end... Make everything else loud enough and you won't notice...

Got sidetracked as the optional AC Delco AC filter blew out on Dad's 2002 Yukon. Complete system discharge. So I replaced the high side line and hose the filter was added into. Yeah a good part of the country is getting their 110" of annual snowfall now and I have yet to shovel 110 degree heat! :wacky: Sure it's just over 70 now, but, still warm enough to need AC and was hotter last week. :p Again it's End of December start of January and for Christmas I fixed Dad's AC!
 
Will L. said:
Haha. Gassers can hear thr [gears] whine much better. We have more metal in the way buffering it and more rattle to disguise it.
Click to expand...

And, gassers do not like to do much below 3K RPM where all indications point to that the gears whine around 5K+. Would not like to see the results if my 6.5 turned that fast ;)

WarWagon said:
The drone of patch muffled by the turbo and glasspack like muffler gets old on long trips. Not going to be easy to hear gear noise. Esp over the 45 MPH howl of the rear end... Make everything else loud enough and you won't notice...
Click to expand...

I just dropped the Burb's differentials to 3.42's and am very happy with the decision. For a muffler, I am only using a 30" FTE resonator. Wish list is to figure out how to cram a shorty muffler inline as well.

When empty I cruise at the speed limit and at 70 mph in OD, there is drone, but the motor is only turning ~2K RPM and is more quiet than any other time.

When towing the closed trailer, I limit the speed to 55 mph and keep the tranny in direct which puts the RPM's just over 2K RPM. Again, the power-train is most quiet at this point.

Also, turns out that the P-400 is more quiet under load than the other blocks, so the combination of motor and gearing turned out much better than I expected in terms of sound.
 
Stopped here, well, because words fail me. The ones that don't would get me banned for a week or more. :rage:

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