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Going mechanical with a Moose Omega Marine IP

I know when I do another mechanical 6.5 engine and want dual stats I'd take the shortcut and get one of Kennedy's modified outlets and brackets for the MFI engine.
 
Sorry about the delay, but I finally got around to asking Conestoga about flow numbers other points in the RPM curve. Here is the response I received:


We don't create a graph or diagram of the fuel curve and we don't release our full specs as they are proprietary. What I can do is give you a few more numbers to fill in what I have shared before. I'm only including WOT specs as that is what really matters. It is a pretty typical DB2 type curve where it is really fat around peak torque rpm and leans out in the higher rpms. We feel that our mods help keep the high rpm fuel as well as most DB4 specs that I have seen and you should have more than enough fuel!

1500rpm - 165cc
1800rpm - 162cc
3200rpm - 130cc
3500rpm - 122cc
3650rpm - 115cc
4000rpm - 68cc

Boy it sure does lean up a lot in those last few hundred RPM! That's probably not all bad though, as it should keep me from exploring the higher RPM and blowing this thing up ;)
 
I know when I do another mechanical 6.5 engine and want dual stats I'd take the shortcut and get one of Kennedy's modified outlets and brackets for the MFI engine.
I went to Kennedy's site and I found the kit you're talking about, but there aren't any pictures. I'd be interested to see what it looks like. It's a bit pricey, but it would definitely save some headaches. Since it says your original throttle assembly attaches to the bracket, I'm assuming that means that the cruise control cable also attaches? If so, it wouldn't be too bad of a deal. I made another trip to the junkyard yesterday to get some more measurements and I have a couple ideas working in my head to connect the dots, but I haven't actually made anything in metal yet.
 
Sorry about the delay, but I finally got around to asking Conestoga about flow numbers other points in the RPM curve. Here is the response I received:


We don't create a graph or diagram of the fuel curve and we don't release our full specs as they are proprietary. What I can do is give you a few more numbers to fill in what I have shared before. I'm only including WOT specs as that is what really matters. It is a pretty typical DB2 type curve where it is really fat around peak torque rpm and leans out in the higher rpms. We feel that our mods help keep the high rpm fuel as well as most DB4 specs that I have seen and you should have more than enough fuel!

1500rpm - 165cc
1800rpm - 162cc
3200rpm - 130cc
3500rpm - 122cc
3650rpm - 115cc
4000rpm - 68cc

Boy it sure does lean up a lot in those last few hundred RPM! That's probably not all bad though, as it should keep me from exploring the higher RPM and blowing this thing up ;)

Looks a lot like the numbers for mine[emoji4]. I had the option of raising fuel output to higher rpms on mine so it wouldn't drop off like that, but like you, I figured I would be better off leaving it alone so I wouldn't be tempted to rev it any higher. You'll like how it runs just how it is though.
 
Looks a lot like the numbers for mine[emoji4]. I had the option of raising fuel output to higher rpms on mine so it wouldn't drop off like that, but like you, I figured I would be better off leaving it alone so I wouldn't be tempted to rev it any higher. You'll like how it runs just how it is though.
Good to know!
 
Interesting improvement in total fuel. Frankly that's an ugly fuel curve for a large turbo that lights off at 2000 RPM. (I am talking about the ATT AND the generic HX40II I tried out where both would light up around 2K RPM.) Typical DB2 or not.

Unless you have good new and perhaps better valve springs it's all risk over 3600 RPM.

I wonder how much fuel loss is from the governor starting to shut off the fuel?

I see the Hypermax smoke puff limiter need. Can they curve the fuel better by other means? Aka 6.5 normal fuel till around 2000 RPM and then pour it on till redline and then cut it back for a soft free rev limiter emissions snap test?
 
I have very little problem with my truck running my current turbo. I could easily smoke out an intersection or whatever road I am driving down if I want to, but normal driving regardless of terrain or what I may or may not be pulling, I can keep it relatively smoke free. Now my turbo is smaller and lights quicker though. I can agree, knowing from experience, that the ATT will absolutely not work with this pump if you try to pull anything unless you do something to get the turbo to light sooner. I don't have experience with the hx40, but I guess Nate will find out soon enough for us all.[emoji4]


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Interesting improvement in total fuel. Frankly that's an ugly fuel curve for a large turbo that lights off at 2000 RPM. (I am talking about the ATT AND the generic HX40II I tried out where both would light up around 2K RPM.) Typical DB2 or not.

Unless you have good new and perhaps better valve springs it's all risk over 3600 RPM.

I wonder how much fuel loss is from the governor starting to shut off the fuel?

I see the Hypermax smoke puff limiter need. Can they curve the fuel better by other means? Aka 6.5 normal fuel till around 2000 RPM and then pour it on till redline and then cut it back for a soft free rev limiter emissions snap test?
Hmmmm, I'm not sure if they could adjust it by some other means or not. I suspect that if they could, they would, because I don't know if anyone could really use that much at the low RPM. My thought was that it was just fluid dynamics hurting the top end flow (ie. the plungers not able to fill completely because they don't have time to), but it could be something else, I don't know. I definitely think the puff limiter will be a nice addition to this setup so it doesn't pour all the fuel on until there's some boost to add air to the fuel.
 
I have very little problem with my truck running my current turbo. I could easily smoke out an intersection or whatever road I am driving down if I want to, but normal driving regardless of terrain or what I may or may not be pulling, I can keep it relatively smoke free. Now my turbo is smaller and lights quicker though. I can agree, knowing from experience, that the ATT will absolutely not work with this pump if you try to pull anything unless you do something to get the turbo to light sooner. I don't have experience with the hx40, but I guess Nate will find out soon enough for us all.[emoji4]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yeah I definitely think I will have to adjust my driving habits so I'm not a complete A-hole at intersections and such.

I really want to try an HE351VE with a controller so the turbo will spool up super quick and then still have air flow up top.....but I should probably get this upgrade paid for first before I go putting that much more money into this thing. :rolleyes:
 
Even with a spool valve that would get me 10 PSI at 2000 RPM out of the ATT smoke control with a small 6.2 precup engine was a concern. Extra challenge with the NA military precups in there. It was all Slug till the turbo lit and then off we go.

Just slipping the engine up to higher RPM with a stall cleans it up a lot and near instant power. So I don't see Rat Rod Patch using the extra fuel at lower RPM's because it doesn't "lug" there anymore.

The hard part about smoke control with a mechanical DB2 is the throttle is an RPM request more than a fuel request. So in theory you can get near or full fuel at heavy, but, not full throttle if the RPM is low enough. If the engine stalls with the solenoid on the governor has the fuel metering valve at full fuel with idle throttle input.
 
1500rpm - 165cc
1800rpm - 162cc
3200rpm - 130cc
3500rpm - 122cc
3650rpm - 115cc
4000rpm - 68cc


Umm, yeah there's some fuel there.

I get why the builder is skipping from 1800-3200. That the primary drop range during the turbo spool up area. he worked hard on getting those numbers up there. Playing with igniting that fuel comes soon.:D
 
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