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Going mechanical with a Moose Omega Marine IP

93detroit said:
Good stuff! Guessing it weighs 3500lbs empty? Sorry for derailing the thread.
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It has loaded tires and I didn’t want to take the extra weight out because I used it for other stuff so I ran it in the 4500 class usually weighing 4700-ish with me on it. It was an unusual setup, but it just worked for some reason. I think it had a set of gears from a standard tractor put in it at some point in its life because it would run over 3mph in 1st gear and 25mph in top gear.

It’s ok for the derailment, it’s not too often I come across another MH guy.
 
n8in8or said:
I've been looking at making a 1/2" tube for the sending unit, but it's hard to come up with a good way to make a bend in 1/2" steel tubing. For my particular truck, I don't like the idea of a sump - my fuel tank is low enough as it is and I don't want to add something hanging out of the bottom of the tank that could get hit if something goes wrong. A sump would sure make things easier though.
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Why not just do a 1/2" straight stainless tube and use an elbow? No bending required then...
 
crash2win64 said:
Why not just do a 1/2" straight stainless tube and use an elbow? No bending required then...
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Are you talking about a threaded connection or an elbow welded to straight tube? I didn’t want to try the threaded connection because the extra height if the connection would probably make it too tall. As far as the welded connection goes....it’s been a while since I was looking before, but as I recall I was having a difficult time finding an elbow with a tight radius that I could weld to a straight section of tube. I could use a larger radius and have part of the bend below the level of the sending unit flange to keep the height above the tank low. I’ll be working on this thought again in a few months for a different truck, so it will have to get figured out one way or another.

If you have a bend in mind, any pics or links would be nice to see.
 
Something like a stainless ½" Street Ell? Perhaps you can find a mandrel bender for ½" tubing instead of trying to use a brake line tubing bender? You could also pack the tube tight with wet fine sand and then use a tight radius post to bend the tubing around (the wet sand keeps the tubing from collapsing or kinking) and the cut off one leg so that you have the right length of tube with a tight radius bend at the end.
 
FellowTraveler said:
8-AN to 1/2" to tube adapter then 8-AN tight radius full flow @ whatever degree you need.
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That will work for flow, but it still has the added height of the threaded connection. However you did give me a thought - if I was to find a stainless AN radius fitting, I could cut off the threaded connection and weld it directly to a 1/2” straight tube.....that could work. I’d still have to see how tall the fitting itself is, but I bet that would get me close. Again, I can always put some of the curve below the flange to gain more height.
 
n8in8or said:
That will work for flow, but it still has the added height of the threaded connection. However you did give me a thought - if I was to find a stainless AN radius fitting, I could cut off the threaded connection and weld it directly to a 1/2” straight tube.....that could work. I’d still have to see how tall the fitting itself is, but I bet that would get me close. Again, I can always put some of the curve below the flange to gain more height.
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I see on the bay there are vendors who sell SS fab parts for brewery fabrication check that out too.....
 
I'll have to get some stuff out and take a look at what I have. Been a while since I touched my 6.5 stuff, I did get my truck and motor to the same spot tho yesterday. I know for sure I have a 8' or 10' stick of stainless tube for this. Also I do remember being able to get wrenches in up there to work so I think it's tight but not as tight as you think...
 
crash2win64 said:
I'll have to get some stuff out and take a look at what I have. Been a while since I touched my 6.5 stuff, I did get my truck and motor to the same spot tho yesterday. I know for sure I have a 8' or 10' stick of stainless tube for this. Also I do remember being able to get wrenches in up there to work so I think it's tight but not as tight as you think...
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What is your truck? My Tahoe was pretty tight, though I didn't measure. I haven't measured the ECLB I'm working on now, but it also looks tight. I'll see if I can get a measurement of what space is up there tonight. This is dredging up stuff I was working on a year and a half ago, so I don't remember all of the details I had when I was actively looking at it..... I'm just trying to keep the conversation going.
 
I'm in the same boat. At this rate the truck won't ever be done. Pulled the pan off the motor I built to check on it since it's sat for a couple years now.

My truck is a CCLB 4x4. Originally I wanted to center mount the turbo. Now I'm contending with doing a straight axle swap up front...
 
crash2win64 said:
I'm in the same boat. At this rate the truck won't ever be done. Pulled the pan off the motor I built to check on it since it's sat for a couple years now.

My truck is a CCLB 4x4. Originally I wanted to center mount the turbo. Now I'm contending with doing a straight axle swap up front...
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I know that feeling. What starts as one thing grows into something else....
 
crash2win64 said:
I'll have to get some stuff out and take a look at what I have. Been a while since I touched my 6.5 stuff, I did get my truck and motor to the same spot tho yesterday. I know for sure I have a 8' or 10' stick of stainless tube for this. Also I do remember being able to get wrenches in up there to work so I think it's tight but not as tight as you think...
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I finally made an FSU for my 94 K3500. I ended up having enough room to use a 1” OD elbow and when I lowered the bed back down on the frame last night I had about 3/16” clearance. In case you’re interested in seeing what I did you can start here: https://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/1994-k3500-extended-cab-dually.48444/post-601676
 
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