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Going mechanical with a Moose Omega Marine IP

n8in8or said:
I'm running 3.73s. I always liked my gearing before overall, especially out of the hole on the street, but now that I have more power I'm starting to feel like I could get away with 3.42s. I had to set the trans controller to short shift 1-2 to get my performance right.

I would like my boost to be lower on the highway, but I'm not sure how to realistically achieve that with my mechanical setup. Any thoughts on how to achieve that? Of course if I had a higher gear and was spinning lower rpm then I'd have lower boost. Maybe that's the answer. I'm not really excited about the idea of swapping the front diff though. I've never done one, so maybe it realy isn't that bad to do?
Click to expand...
3.73 to 3.42 is a short jump so larger diameter tires would be the ticket.
 
I've seen people rig up electric motors to push the wastegate open to drop boost at cruise. This is one area where the factory vacuum activated wastegate shines is you can do all this stuff electronically.
 
I've been wanting to put in a cummins shut off solenoid (I have 1 from using as know good still in my box) on the turbo master that by applying power to the solenoid it will pull the wate gate open. Simple distance adjustment will allow pressure setting. The solenoid handles thousands of on/off cycles and is constant duty so it wont hurt anything to be on for hours on long drives.
This is like the one I have- just stole pic from ebay
image.png


If you have vacuum control the one Leroy posted is great. If mechanical only, a variable throw solenoid controlled by a rheostat on the dash would work.
 
FellowTraveler said:
3.73 to 3.42 is a short jump so larger diameter tires would be the ticket.
Click to expand...

Husker6.5 said:
About a 200-250 RPM drop depending on cruising speed, using the same sized tires.
Click to expand...

I just crunched the numbers on this:

Changing from 3.73s to 3.42s would be a 195 rpm drop at 75mph.
Changing from 265/70s to 265/75s would be a 75rpm drop at 75mph.
Changing both things would be a 265rpm drop at 75mph.

I'll need to crunch the numbers on the other transmission gears, but a 3.42 swap is looking appealing.....especially since I hate my noisy Motive Gears!
 
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Burning oil said:
Get an in cab boost controller?
Click to expand...

THEFERMANATOR said:
I've seen people rig up electric motors to push the wastegate open to drop boost at cruise. This is one area where the factory vacuum activated wastegate shines is you can do all this stuff electronically.
Click to expand...

Yeah there are definitely benefits to the factory system in that regard. We'll see if this matters to me enough to actually do anything about it.

Burning oil said:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Adjus...ash=item3607989c4f:g:DzIAAOSwfQRXMU-3&vxp=mtr
Click to expand...

This could work, but only if I also put a really weak spring in the wastegate dashpot too. Then I'm not sure if it could hold it closed against boost or not.

Will L. said:
I've been wanting to put in a cummins shut off solenoid (I have 1 from using as know good still in my box) on the turbo master that by applying power to the solenoid it will pull the wate gate open. Simple distance adjustment will allow pressure setting. The solenoid handles thousands of on/off cycles and is constant duty so it wont hurt anything to be on for hours on long drives.
This is like the one I have- just stole pic from ebay
View attachment 48435


If you have vacuum control the one Leroy posted is great. If mechanical only, a variable throw solenoid controlled by a rheostat on the dash would work.
Click to expand...

Hmmm, that's slick and I could see that working. I was thinking overnight that I could add an electronic external wastegate to the system and have that dump boost under a certain set of conditions: mph > X, throttle position < X. That way if I want to get moving again a larger application of throttle pedal would close the wastegate and I'd have normal boost. Also it would only cut boost at highway speeds since the reason for this is to reduce the boost (and associated backpressure) at cruise. What you're suggesting could work though and just use the exiting wastegate...something to keep in mind.

I'm not sure if I'll pursue anything or not since I don't highway cruise a lot right now in my life, so it would be a lot of effort for possibly not much return. It's cool stuff to talk about though, thanks for the input guys!
 
Will L. said:
I've been wanting to put in a cummins shut off solenoid (I have 1 from using as know good still in my box) on the turbo master that by applying power to the solenoid it will pull the wate gate open. Simple distance adjustment will allow pressure setting. The solenoid handles thousands of on/off cycles and is constant duty so it wont hurt anything to be on for hours on long drives.
This is like the one I have- just stole pic from ebay
View attachment 48435


If you have vacuum control the one Leroy posted is great. If mechanical only, a variable throw solenoid controlled by a rheostat on the dash would work.
Click to expand...
They work well, but have very little actual pull to them. Also of note, it's a 2 stage solenoid. You have a pull and a hold side to it(hence the 3 wires). The pull side needs about 45-50 amps of current to pull it closed, and the hold side only needs about 7-8 iirc. If it doesnt pull all the way in, it will self destruct itselk or best case scenario release. If you pull one apart, there is a mechanical button down inside that the plunger must release to change the coil from pull to hold, if it doesnt switch the get very hot and burn up.
 
Ok, @n8in8or, if you want to be totally mechanical, use a manual choke cable to override the wastegate controller. Additionally, it would give you an infinitely adjustable opening for your wastegate, so you could adjust the bypass flow to get an optimal drive pressure to boost ratio for the driving conditions.
 
Husker6.5 said:
Ok, @n8in8or, if you want to be totally mechanical, use a manual choke cable to override the wastegate controller. Additionally, it would give you an infinitely adjustable opening for your wastegate, so you could adjust the bypass flow to get an optimal drive pressure to boost ratio for the driving conditions.
Click to expand...
That could work. Actually what I really want is for my truck to run by ESP: I just want the truck to know what I want it to do all the time, and make a crap-ton of power doing it. Is that too much to ask??? :smuggrin:
 
Husker6.5 said:
I think they've already done that. It's called Knight Rider.
Click to expand...
Oh! So all I need is one of those sweeping grill light thingies they sell in JC Whitney and I'd be all set!!?? Sign me up! Now what do I need to do to get the silent mode from Air Wolf?
 
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