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Best overall diesel engine oil winter vs summer

Will L. said:
Frantz. Hands down the best outside of getting a centrifuge into high oil pressure or an external driven centrifuge.
Kinda surprised none of the vendors here ever became rep.
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I have seen these from the time I was young. I often wondered how well the oil would flow through the roll of paper.
Is there a certain brand or type of paper that would be best used with this filter adapter ?
Does a person then eliminate the stock/factory filter and plumb it into one of the oil cooler hoses ?
 
it doesn't replace the engine oil filter, it's designed to be a bypass oil filter connected to the oil pressure sensor port and drains off into the valve cover or oil fill cap.

I would like to know how fine it filters stuff. the kit is a little over 2 bills online.
 
dbrannon79 said:
it doesn't replace the engine oil filter, it's designed to be a bypass oil filter connected to the oil pressure sensor port and drains off into the valve cover or oil fill cap.

I would like to know how fine it filters stuff. the kit is a little over 2 bills online.
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And not a specific kit for the 6.5. There is a universal kit though and that probably would be more than sufficient.
Looking through their website, the do list diesel engine oil. About $55.00 a gallon but it too is out of stock.
 
I like the FS2500 bypass filters. Because I like to spend lots of money for the elements.

I could never make myself trust the terlet paper filters.

I install a T in the return line from the engine oil cooler to feed the bypass filter and return to the engine oil fill neck.

Aim the return nipple slightly down or oil will splash out of the fill neck if you open it with the engine running.

Bypass filters have to be restricted to avoid losing oil pressure
 
The frantz outfit came out with their own media- so you don’t have to wonder how good is chramin vs angel soft; also so you don’t worry if it will break off and contaminate.

frantz goes to 2 micron with their media tested third party by blackstone labs. This is cleaner than new oil (see pic from their website).
the fs2500 goes to 3 micron.


On carbon- carbon can be counted dry at 0.1 micron. But wet (like in oil) 0.25 is the smallest it gets too really. When dealing with 1 micron and under the structure of the carbon becomes more critical than the size as far a ls lab folks care. The claim for absolute 3 micron - I would REAAALLY have to see the sheets on that to believe it because it isn’t like this is gasoline or diesel fuel. Being able to filter 100% of 3 microns means it should pull a ridiculous amount of the 2 and 1 microns out also. So if it doing it- you hey really need to show documentation on their site.

At those levels- look for the lower price- that extra drop from 3 to 2 helps but isn’t all carbon, so don’t panic on the difference. Idk about the 2500 but the Frantz in made in USA. I always prefer USA made, but am quite happy with Canada or Mexico made.
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With that micron count.
Two five gallon buckets, a pump and a Frantz kit.
A hole for one of the Frantz 90 elbow in the bottom of one bucket and hook the Frantz kit to that bucket, placed onto a stand.
Pump the oil through the Frantz kit into the other bucket.
Maybe even two or three times pumping the oil through the kit.
Should be good to use for another oil change ?
Could possibly use an electric fuel pump for pushing the oil through the Frantz kit ?
Just thinking, any other thoughts ?
 
I watched their video on their site about the FS2500. I caught where they mentioned oil never goes bad, it's the contaminants and soot. back in the day learning mechanics were were taught that all oils and coolants loos their ability to lubricate over time even if its still clean. that's the only reason I have been hesitant of cleaning and re-using oil. maybe what I was taught isn't so true?
 
What ever happened to the "miracle" oil filter from amzoil that let you go on the same oil for a gazillion miles if you just changed the "miracle" filter every quarter of a gazillion or some such?
 
so basically it boils down to having at least a 1 micron oil filter to use as a bypass filter. running a line in on ether the oil cooler to it or from the pressure sensor port with a restrictor so not to loose oil pressure.

as many hydraulic oil filters we run for various equipment here at work, I can probably come up with a small filter and housing that wouldn't be too costly.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Rotella T6 5w40
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I have had great results on my UOA with 15W40 T6 on the 6.7 Cummins. It's been unobtainable. So I ordered the AMSOIL and it was dropped on my doorstep ... But they didn't have the oil filter in stock. I did not want to change brands, but, I have a 6 month required oil change due to warranty requirements of the OEM maintenance schedule and unobtainable oil and filters makes this "fun".

Additives in the oil wear out. The VI can sheer so the hot weight becomes too thin. A NV5600 transmission is famous for sheering oil down. TBN is no so much of a factor with the ULSD we have today. But the oil being too thick or too thin is a failure I have run into in the last decade.

Fuel dilution including BioDiesel contamination will thin oil out. Bio doesn't evaporate back out of the oil like #2 diesel can.

Time is generally limited to ONE YEAR regardless of miles even on the fancy AMSOIL oil. Can the cheap made conglomerate bean counters had a field day oil filter handle it without coming apart from age is also a very real concern.

So before you go too crazy on a dirty running engine that requires 2500 mile HD use oil changes ... How many miles per year do you put on it? IMO these engines mostly crack to death before they wear out. Wear is mainly cam bearings and ring tension going away, blowby, from overheating.
 
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WarWagon said:
I have had great results on my UOA with 15W40 T6 on the 6.7 Cummins. It's been unobtainable. So I ordered the AMSOIL and it was dropped on my doorstep ... But they didn't have the oil filter in stock. I did not want to change brands, but, I have a 6 month required oil change due to warranty requirements of the OEM maintenance schedule and unobtainable oil and filters makes this "fun".

Additives in the oil wear out. The VI can sheer so the hot weight becomes too thin. A NV5600 transmission is famous for sheering oil down. TBN is no so much of a factor with the ULSD we have today. But the oil being too thick or too thin is a failure I have run into in the last decade.

Fuel dilution including BioDiesel contamination will thin oil out. Bio doesn't evaporate back out of the oil like #2 diesel can.

Time is generally limited to ONE YEAR regardless of miles even on the fancy AMSOIL oil. Can the cheap made conglomerate bean counters had a field day oil filter handle it without coming apart from age is also a very real concern.

So before you go too crazy on a dirty running engine that requires 2500 mile HD use oil changes ... How many miles per year do you put on it? IMO these engines mostly crack to death before they wear out. Wear is mainly cam bearings and ring tension going away, blowby, from overheating.
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Thanking about yearly mileage, I need to look to see if I can find what the mileage was when I bought it. I have been saying it's tipping 300K for the longest lol. I just added up my 12 mile round trip to work and back for the year and that was only 3120 miles !! add in the trips to town and when we go further out on a trip, I'm thinking somewhere in the neighborhood of maybe 15 - 20k a year.

I think it would survive a full year on an oil change lol if I can get a bypass filter in there to put the mind to ease lol

looking at my fuel ups in the fuelly app, I usually go through a full tank in about a month.
 
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