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2008 GMC Envoy Denali

n8in8or

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Shifted gears a little tonight. After seeing more specs on the AEM valve I decided it was a suitable semi-temporary solution. I ordered it off Amazon and received it today. Here are some more detailed pictures of the piece.

BE3B00DF-621A-4F3B-AFD6-3931359B2832.jpeg488E494E-045E-4956-84EB-949D98F3C610.jpeg1BEB4628-9932-43A6-A90F-A7279C079BC7.jpeg

I made a quick tee on my existing pipe and then mounted the valve. I didn’t have time to make a plug out of 3” exhaust pipe so I used a PVC plug.

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And here it is installed. It should work.

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n8in8or

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Here are the instructions that came with the valve. Interesting the foam inside is considered a spring.

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And here’s something interesting.....here’s a pic of the edge of the top horizontal piece when I removed it.

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And here is the top of the vertical piece.

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See the rust? Does that mean water got that high in the pipe? Was it just some slight water vapor or was it a column of water? Galvanizing better on the horizontal pipe than the vertical one? I don’t know the answer, but thought it was interesting.

And then I saw this online today and thought it was funny......

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n8in8or

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Today I picked up some polyethylene drops from the local metal and plastic supplier. These are a lot thicker than the jug I tried using last night. I’m going to cut the jug out, clean everything really well and then give it another go with some thicker stock and see if I have some better results.

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n8in8or

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I panic from low mounted air intakes. When I was the Mac tools guy going to different shops and dealerships, I saw it all the time where people did major damage because of splashing a puddle too hard or crossing a bit of water.

Being into off roading, and the road flooding that used to be common place in Vegas, I always thought it was only from people crossing water that was deeper than the height of the air intake. Not so! Most of the people cross 6” to 8” of water but the enough of a splash gets to the intake.

So my preference is a high intake. And I also don’t understand why so many of the cold air intakes don’t correct the level air is pulling from. Your driving on asphalt which is sending a lot more heat upwards. Go out and place a thermometer at 18” off the asphalt, then move it to 40” off the asphalt. The farther off the ground, the colder it is. Also better for fine dirt and dust up higher, so cleaner colder air.

On the valve, I am confused also. Like it is a bladder that collapses and blocks airflow maybe?

You are plenty good enough fabricator to create something to bring in cold, clean air from somewhere better than the factory planned it out. I don’t think a vertical snorkel like hummer/hmmwv uses is the best answer, but I would be tempted to do something near the top of the hood line. Any cowl induction that looks good maybe?
So this was interesting today.... I sat for about 5 minutes in the truck with it idling while I made a phone call. This was after driving for 15 minutes and it was 88 degrees outside. When I took off it seemed a little doggier than it has been. I didn’t have my scanner hooked up at that moment, but I did have it with me so I plugged it in at the next light. The IAT was 111 if I recall correctly. I drove for about 5 minutes in city traffic and the temp kept ticking down. I think it was around 104 when I parked. I was in the building getting the plastic scraps for about 15 minutes. Then I drove another 5 minutes to get back to work. By the time I parked it was down to 94. So yes, it will get hot when sitting, but once moving it starts cooling down again. This was the first time I had noticed that high of a temperature relative to ambient, but I had stop monitoring after a while. I’m also not sure I had idled that long on asphalt that long after driving. Just thought I’d share some honest facts with you......you aren’t crazy.
 

n8in8or

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Finally got the reservoir welded up so it doesn’t leak. I started cutting some of that thick stock to fit and it was a pain so I changed plans again. I said screw and just ordered some 12x12 pieces of 1/8” thick PE off of Amazon and some white filler rod. This worked SOOOO much better for me. Unfortunately 12” wasn’t enough to make the tube in one piece, but it worked in the end. I did learn that it would have worked best to make the tube and then weld it in place, but again, it still worked in the end. I had the best results by preheating the weld area with my heat gun on the highest setting and then doing the weld with the iron. Some parts even fused a little with just the heat gun. I did have a couple small leaks when I first finished that I had to go back and fix, but eventually it ended up leak free.

I’m curious, for you guys with plastic welding experience, see how some of the plastic turned amber? Is that indicative of anything? Does that mean I got it too hot? Is it just stained from my welding iron? Nothing to be worried about? Just wondering.

I’m interested to do more plastic welding in the future. I can see making custom coolant, washer and WMI reservoirs with it. I think I could make much cleaner welds if I did 2 straight pieces welded in a miter joint rather than trying to do a filet weld on an irregular contour.

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n8in8or

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Here are some pics of the tube. It’s hard to see in a pic, but the edges at the seam sag in almost 1/4”. I wasn’t able to make them flat before adding the patch so I had to make a patch that was curved on the edges to match. That’s why I said earlier that it would have been better to make the tube first and then weld it into the tank, but I didn’t have a form of the correct size to do that so I did it this way.

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