What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

[MrMarty51]

I used the supports from the original bracket under the tank, adding marine poly board as spacers, which worked. Pics tomorrow.

It looks like that bolt hole through the bracket might be bout a 1/2 a bolt hole off.
If it was Me, I would not be fearful of die grinding the bracket enough to get a bolt through that hole.

 

[MrMarty51]

Is this the IP you lent me….twice?

Yes. I had read that the diesel fuel if left setting in any component will gum up and then have to be flushed before the component can be used.
Someone in the forum had an injection pump that got gummed up. They used ATF and finally got enough of that to flow through and the high in detergent content finally flushed out the gummy substance.
I didnt know diesel would do such as that before reading that thread.

 

[jrsavoie]

Yes. I had read that the diesel fuel if left setting in any component will gum up and then have to be flushed before the component can be used.
Someone in the forum had an injection pump that got gummed up. They used ATF and finally got enough of that to flow through and the high in detergent content finally flushed out the gummy substance.
I didnt know diesel would do such as that before reading that thread.

I don't remember diesel gumming up, being an issue with the diesel we grew up with

 

[Will L.]

Nordlock washers.
Absolutely nothing in the world works better for vibration.
Didn’t find my favorite video of it, but here is similar:

You DO NOT use any other washers with them. Just the bolt and the washer set.
They are not good for soft materials like wood or plastic because the serration have to seat into the material. But things like this, metal to metal, is perfect.

All Hmmwv had problem with the cv axle where it bolts to the differential and where the rotor is sandwiched - they would come loose. Military went through different washers loctite, etc. finally settled on nordlocks. Never a fail since.

 

[Big T]

It looks like that bolt hole through the bracket might be bout a 1/2 a bolt hole off.
If it was Me, I would not be fearful of die grinding the bracket enough to get a bolt through that hole.

I drilled it out. Here’s some pics of the bracket underneath at the poly board spacers:

 

[Big T]

Yes. I had read that the diesel fuel if left setting in any component will gum up and then have to be flushed before the component can be used.
Someone in the forum had an injection pump that got gummed up. They used ATF and finally got enough of that to flow through and the high in detergent content finally flushed out the gummy substance.
I didnt know diesel would do such as that before reading that thread.

I’m wondering if the IP from the ‘95, which
sat on the engine for 9 or 10 years, was gummed up inside. We could never get fuel to flow through it. I should send that IP out to Conastoga for rebuilding.

BTW the ‘94 is running really good now. Just need to rebuild the transfer case.

 

[MrMarty51]

I’m wondering if the IP from the ‘95, which
sat on the engine for 9 or 10 years, was gummed up inside. We could never get fuel to flow through it. I should send that IP out to Conastoga for rebuilding.

BTW the ‘94 is running really good now. Just need to rebuild the transfer case.

That is good news, and after several months trial run too.
I see in leroydiesel store he has injection pumps. Might see how much his pumps are before sending Yours off.
I did order in a set of his new Bosch injectors. No core required.
That will give me time to shop around and see what I can find for better nozzles than the chinesium ones for the injectors I removed.
I am taking @brandyn64 advice and reached out to a firearms smith here in town. See if he has an ultrsonic cleaner and if He would be willing to put these components through his cleaner. Put them together and see if they still leak pre pop pressure. Still dont know if I’d want to run them, if they’d carbon up and leak like that in less than 20,000 miles.
That no.7 was leaking so bad it was causing a misfire when the engine was cold. I didnt mind if running sligjtly off before the cylinders warmed up, within about 30 seconds but this was a bad misfire.

 

[MrMarty51]

I dont know how I would keep the pintles and the nozzles in order, so each pintle would go back to its nozzle, unless He has some kind of containers to keep them separated. Or do a nozzle and its pintle and run the cleaner 8 times.

 

[Big T]

I dont know how I would keep the pintles and the nozzles in order, so each pintle would go back to its nozzle, unless He has some kind of containers to keep them separated. Or do a nozzle and its pintle and run the cleaner 8 times.

Poke them through cardboard and label.

 

[Big T]

That is good news, and after several months trial run too.
I see in leroydiesel store he has injection pumps. Might see how much his pumps are before sending Yours off.
I did order in a set of his new Bosch injectors. No core required.
That will give me time to shop around and see what I can find for better nozzles than the chinesium ones for the injectors I removed.
I am taking @brandyn64 advice and reached out to a firearms smith here in town. See if he has an ultrsonic cleaner and if He would be willing to put these components through his cleaner. Put them together and see if they still leak pre pop pressure. Still dont know if I’d want to run them, if they’d carbon up and leak like that in less than 20,000 miles.
That no.7 was leaking so bad it was causing a misfire when the engine was cold. I didnt mind if running sligjtly off before the cylinders warmed up, within about 30 seconds but this was a bad misfire.

I have one of Leroy’s Bosch injectors periodically throwing a code. Not a top priority at the moment, as I want to fix the Transfer Case issues.

 

[MrMarty51]

I have one of Leroy’s Bosch injectors periodically throwing a code. Not a top priority at the moment, as I want to fix the Transfer Case issues.

I do believe that as long as injectors are using chinesiumjunk components then we will continue having problems with injectors and beyond.
If anyone finds a site where those Italian made injector nozzles can be ordered from then please contact and let Me know.

 

[MrMarty51]

All the wires hooked to the spare IP.
Ignition key on, ground hooked from IP to battery negative post. Spare fuel pump hooked to battery and clicks right along. CPS disconnected near IP.
Spinning the IP in a counter clockwise direction.
About a half an hour spin time. No oil out of any of the hoses.
Back to the drawing board I guess.

 

[MrMarty51]

Gave the spare IP about another 10 minute spin counterclockwise with the drill. Still no oil emitting from any of the hoses, nor the bypass hose.
Thinking I’ll mail it off to QStar tuning and have them send it to their rebuilder and have them run it through a test cycle to purge the fuel from this IP.
Now going to pull the spare IP, get it out of the way. Remive the rocker covers, check the buttons on the shafts and reseal the covers. I’d love to install Leroys stud and girdle set at this time but the money is not there for such.
I am going to go to the local Honda motorcycle dealer and get a fresh tube of Hondabond. Use that on the rocker covers.
I have had that Right Suff leak on the 88 Buick intake manifold and I dont want to take a chance with these rocker covers. Too much prep to get down that far.

 

[dbrannon79]

@MrMarty51 were you able to connect the scanner to the truck and see if the PCM sees an rpm signal when you turn the IP? not sure if the counterclockwise is the direction, but if you look at the crank pulley. when cranking, if that turns clockwise then the IP will turn the opposite direction. if the crank turns counterclockwise then the IP will turn clockwise.

 

[MrMarty51]

Did not think to hook the app to the ALDL adapter.
I did talk to Mike at Quadstar Tuning. He said to remove the hose adapter nipples, drain out as much fuel as possible. Fill the pump as full as possible with the blue Stanadyne fuel additive, spin over the shaft and keep adding the additive.
I’m not sure if that process will work. For now though, I need to get the rocker covers off, resealed and be ready for when the new injectors arrive.
We did talk more about injectors. He said that as long as the injector components are stamped with the Bosch brand, they will be good to go. He also said that any of the injectors that do not have the Bosch stamp on them, the Bosch components will not fit those. The BWD BAD units i pulled have no bosch stamping on them.

 

[Big T]

Did not think to hook the app to the ALDL adapter.
I did talk to Mike at Quadstar Tuning. He said to remove the hose adapter nipples, drain out as much fuel as possible. Fill the pump as full as possible with the blue Stanadyne fuel additive, spin over the shaft and keep adding the additive.
I’m not sure if that process will work. For now though, I need to get the rocker covers off, resealed and be ready for when the new injectors arrive.
We did talk more about injectors. He said that as long as the injector components are stamped with the Bosch brand, they will be good to go. He also said that any of the injectors that do not have the Bosch stamp on them, the Bosch components will not fit those. The BWD BAD units i pulled have no bosch stamping on them.

Are you installing the Leroy valve cover girdles? I bought them, but have yet to install. I am still bleeding oil from lower rear passenger side, but not as bad as before.

 

[Will L.]

Unscrew the fso incase your power wire or the ground to it isn’t working.

 

[MrMarty51]

Are you installing the Leroy valve cover girdles? I bought them, but have yet to install. I am still bleeding oil from lower rear passenger side, but not as bad as before.

I seen those and just think they’d be a nice option.
No money for that today. Barely getting done what I got to in order to get it back together.
Only reason I took it down was because of the cold engine misfire, knew at least one injector was messing up. Didnt realize it was the whole engines worth. Did not want to travel it any farther than necessary for fear of torching a piston or two.
Now I guess I understand why the fuel mileage dropped off to 15-16 at 72 or 73 MPH.
Had to keep it at about 60 to 65 to maintain that 18 MPG.

 

[MrMarty51]

Step son, He has an electric contractor company. Needs to do some welding on His service truck.
Bad weather predicted for tomorrow. Going to gather loose ends, get the truck ready, move it from the garage in the morning so He can get his truck in and work on it tomorrow.
Just another day in eastern Montana.

 

[J_dude]

Been using my neighbor’s chipper which quite easily could be 50 years old. It had a steel fuel tank which he had zip tied to a bracket on the engine. Of course those broke, so I used large screw clamps for HVAC ducting and those broke too and knocked off the glass bowl on the fuel filter attached to the tank. It had been glued in place with a grey sealant. The tank does not have bracket mounts attached to it and I did not want to weld some on.

So it was time to go a different route. I ordered a Polyethylene tank and bracket for an 8 hp Tecumseh engine (chipper has an 8 hp Briggs & Stratton). Engine side of the bracket was a close fit, I had to egg out one hole to make it work. I cut the original bracket and use that as a pedestal for the bottom of the tank. I used the chipper most of the day to finish up on the slash from the Eucalyptus tree. Tank did come off once. Engine imparts quite a bit of vibration. Just need to check the screws on the tank side of the bracket every couple hours.View attachment 79917View attachment 79918View attachment 79919View attachment 79920View attachment 79921View attachment 79922View attachment 79923View attachment 79924View attachment 79925

Looks like the same setup as the Briggs on my log splitter, you’ve probably got it under control already but if you want I could get you pics of the original tank mount bracket/clamp system. I’ve never had mine come loose.