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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

Well, all the pads, shoes, hardware, calipers, rotors, drums, wheel cyl's got replaced not too long ago, can't remember when exactly but it all came from AAP. it might have been last summer or the summer before when it all got replaced. the MC and hoses I never touched.

Weather is supposed to be decent this weekend, the truck is due for an oil change already, just over 3000 miles so I may attempt that and flush the fluid too.

I need to order the drinker side wheel speed sensor and get the ABS working too. we will see what happens with the weather.
 
Ok- then yes making the investment makes sense- so long as new not reman. Preference of proper manufacturer like delco, bendix, raybestos, etc.

Having custom steel braided clear covered DOT RATED lines made is better than rubber. But you have to take yours to them to match fittings and length. Tends to take an hour or so depending how busy the hydraulic hose shop is.
 
Drug, scraped and blowed the snow off of the K3500.
Now waiting for the temps to warm a little within the next phew days, get that toyota corolla out of the garage and have it all ready to run the truck in.
Going to pull the injectors. See if I can borrow the injector tester from the place of My previous employ. If I cant get the use of that unit then I’ll see about building one from an old hydraulic jack I have here.
Wanting to check the injector leak down, spray pattern, chatter and pop off pressure.
Maybe its the amount of two stroke oil, maybe its the amount of No1 diesel I doctored the cold weather mix with, or, maybe an injector or two is not functioning like it, or, they should.
Start it in the cold, plugged in all night, starts easy enough, white smoke, a cylinder or two sort of stutters along, like a fouled plug on a gas engine, idle dont sound just right and a blurb every once in a while, then, after the cylinders has warmed after about 45 seconds to a minute, fires and runs on all eight, smooth as can be.
I did dump in ten gallons of no.2 then drove about 30 miles. See how it fires on the next startup in a couple of days.
Waiting for the temps to warm some before I open the garage and run that cold beast in.
I have been wanting to pull the injectors and check their functions. Now is a good time.
 
Don’t hardly see building one compared to this price.

Replace the gauge with a descent one- and an old junkyard injector line -
But you need to get those anyway.

I would love to buy one of those. Right now though there is no spare money for anything besides the bare essentials.
Keep hanging on, hoping that this bidum economic pandemic thing will pass and that the economy will turn back to normal. Even pre trump economics would be a blessing in these times.
 
Tried to start the truck. Cranked over ratherly slow.
Discovered that the extension cord was not fully engaged into the wall.
Pushed the cord end fully into the receptacle and let the truck set for a couple of hours. Cranking speed much improved, engine fired up but still mighty rich on fuel and that disturbing miss. Let it warm for about 20 minutes at a faster idle and it drives and runs just fine when warmed up.
Now that I have it plugged in from a warm engine mode, we shall see how it does in the morning. It was probably still 15 below when I tried starting it when the engine was cold.
Tomorrow, or Sunday, it will go into the garage.
 
I would love to buy one of those. Right now though there is no spare money for anything besides the bare essentials.
Keep hanging on, hoping that this bidum economic pandemic thing will pass and that the economy will turn back to normal. Even pre trump economics would be a blessing in these times.
Did you not see on the TV, Dementia Joe said the economy is wonderful.
 
Setting up to pump some jack oil through the reman injection pump. Long as I have the intake manifold off the engine it gives more room for a place to rest the spare IP, hook all the wires to it. Using a spare lift pump, poke a hose into a jug of jack oil, hook the out end of the hose to the IP, when I get it all set, turn on the ignition switch then spin the IP shaft by hand until jack oil emits from all 8 outlets on the pressure feed fittings.
I do have a gallon of power steering fluid and might use that instead. Save me having to go to the parts store and buying jack oil. 😹😹😹😹
The jack oil was suggested by Will L and I dont know that I should deviate off of that advice.
 
Setting up to pump some jack oil through the reman injection pump. Long as I have the intake manifold off the engine it gives more room for a place to rest the spare IP, hook all the wires to it. Using a spare lift pump, poke a hose into a jug of jack oil, hook the out end of the hose to the IP, when I get it all set, turn on the ignition switch then spin the IP shaft by hand until jack oil emits from all 8 outlets on the pressure feed fittings.
I do have a gallon of power steering fluid and might use that instead. Save me having to go to the parts store and buying jack oil. 😹😹😹😹
The jack oil was suggested by Will L and I dont know that I should deviate off of that advice.
Marty, when in doubt, clear hose is the default answer.
 
from what I remember the test fluid is pretty much kerosene
Yes, but without any alcohols or additives and full sulfur. And those are the reasons to do the purge before storing. Anyone that ever stored a small engine for a year the. Had to rebuild or replace a carburetor from the fuel drying up and damaging it can get the idea.

I heard rumors that Ak and Hi sell fuel free of the additives and alcohols. Unfortunately still not sulfur- unless you know a home brewer…
 
Jack oil it shall be.
I did have a gallon in the garage. A friend had bought an old bumper lift, raises the entire back end of a vehicle, it was low on fluid and he needed some jack oil. He had no money after buying the lift. I gave Him my gallon of JO and so now I’ll go get two quarts. I figure that should be plenty to fill the voids of that pump.
I do have some clear hose here that fits them nipples. I’ll get some more to make sure I have more than enough.
 
Was getting another good start on purging the diesel from the IP.
Called the urologist and went in for a PSA test. That took some time. Off to ACE for clear hose and NAPA for diesel rated fuel hoses.
Finally got back home and just got a start and My old friend Rich gives me a call. He is in need of a sleeve or pipe to use for a bearing driver. Told him to bring over his pieces and We’d come up with something.
He arrives shortly. I had a piece of pipe that would fit over the stem of his triple tree, only the seam in the pipe was holding it back. Got out the extra long die grinder bit and made quick work of that seam inside of the pipe.
Perfect fit then. Got that bearing drove into position and he hung around and we BSd about old times and all the miles we rode.
He left and I cut two footer pieces of clear tube and shoved them over the nipples. Next step is I’ll disconnect the lift pump, dont want unwanted fuel running out the return hoses thats all disconnected.
Then stuff the hose of the spare pump into the jug of JO then on with the ignition switch, oh no, forgot to hook up the battery cables. 😹😹😹😹
Okay, that all will take place tomorrow.
A pic of how it all sets for now.
4901F639-5BDA-45D3-A0CF-25E64A92EFCF.jpeg
 
All is hooked up.
Cranking the injection pump shaft in a counter clock wise direction, ignition switch on. Temporary lift pump connected to the battery. It has oil to the IP and nothing coming through. Not even the by pass fitting/hose.
Probably going to have to plug the oil sender bore, hook the oil sender to the air pressure, plug the turbo feed hose and then with the ign switch in run, crank over the engine.
With the injectors and GPs removed, should not be much of a strain on the starter. Give it its 30 seconds of crank time then a real nice cool down spell. Repeat until oil flows from the IP.
While I am at it and have the intake removed, going to have NAPA build me a 1/4” hydraulic hose and remote fit the oil pressure sending unit.
 
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