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Going mechanical with a Moose Omega Marine IP

Brass and BioDiesel don't get along. It turns green. You can't avoid the BioDiesel...

John Deere agrees... Brass, bronze, copper, lead, tin, and zinc can accelerate the oxidation of biodiesel and create deposits in the engine........
isn't the tank zinc coated? seems i had flaking and looked zinc to me.
if that's the case, all tanks will cause clogging over time. hopefully i'm wrong.
 
isn't the tank zinc coated? seems i had flaking and looked zinc to me.
if that's the case, all tanks will cause clogging over time. hopefully i'm wrong.
That could be likely.
Can't remember the exact stretch. But a good 5 year or so run of ford's have had problems with the tanks delaminating. Likely from biodiesel.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 
That could be likely.
Can't remember the exact stretch. But a good 5 year or so run of ford's have had problems with the tanks delaminating. Likely from biodiesel.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
Nah, it's just because they're Fix Or Repair Daily, Failed On Race Day, Found On Road Dead, F*cking Old Recycled Dodges! Biodiesel didn't have anything to do with poor vendor Quality Control and the tank lining problems.
 
Ok. The date is set. Friday, January 27th I have an appointment at the dyno! It's been a little bit of a struggle to get it coordinated. I contacted Force Engineering in Plainwell, MI, because they're a reputable shop within a half hour of me. The first hurdle was that they didn't have a ventilation system set up to handle diesel exhaust. So I called around to anyone else that might run a diesel. The closest place was 3 hours away! Not wanting to travel that far - especially in case something breaks during the dyno run - but also I'd like to have a close place by for future runs. So I called them back and after a few back-and-forths decided that I could come up with a flexible duct system to get the exhaust out the door. Of course they got super busy recently and were difficult to get a hold of, but finally we got together and now it's set! I'm super stoked! I can't wait to see what number it lays down and I also can't wait to have that number so I can start planning a water-meth system sized to my power output. The plan is to do 3 runs with no changes to get a good average number and see how it responds to repeat runs. If there's time, I'm hoping I can do a 4th run and back the Puff Limiter all the way out and see if it is restricting fuel output at the current setting.

Since this is my first dyno run I asked some questions about how to prepare for the run. I have winter tires on the truck right now and I wasn't sure if that would be a problem or not. He said they'd be "ok", but it sounded like they would complicate the run. He said they ran a car with drag radials one time and because they didn't wait long enough between runs, the soft rubber got really hot and the tread actually started delaminating! I don't want to take a chance, so I'm going to swap my All Seasons back on for the day. I'm also going to do an oil change and slap a fresh air filter on it. Do you guys have any other suggestions for things to do or look out for before I do my run?

I'm also working on a tune for the Quick 4 so I can lock the transmission into 3rd gear with the converter also locked during the run so I can get a good, true reading from the dyno and begin at a reasonably low rpm. Anything I'm missing?
 
What type of dyno? Some dynos do not work well with diesels, and can either give really high numbers, or really low numbers. Straight inertia dynos tend to not do well with diesels as they don't load the engine up enough to fully spool the turbo. It's best to find a load cell dyno that can actually pull the engine down, load it, and control the acceleration as to accurately measure hp across the power band. Naturally aspirated engines are one thing to dyno, but forced induction is a completely different animal, and a forced induction diesel is yet another. And unless it's a true load cell dyno that can load it 100%, take the numbers with a grain of salt. Dynos can be great testing tools, but keep in mind it's still a testing tool.
 
What type of dyno? Some dynos do not work well with diesels, and can either give really high numbers, or really low numbers. Straight inertia dynos tend to not do well with diesels as they don't load the engine up enough to fully spool the turbo. It's best to find a load cell dyno that can actually pull the engine down, load it, and control the acceleration as to accurately measure hp across the power band. Naturally aspirated engines are one thing to dyno, but forced induction is a completely different animal, and a forced induction diesel is yet another. And unless it's a true load cell dyno that can load it 100%, take the numbers with a grain of salt. Dynos can be great testing tools, but keep in mind it's still a testing tool.
Oh yes, I fully realize that dynos are just a tuning tool, that get you a number. That's why I wanted one close by so once I had an idea of how mine acted on that particular dyno, it would help me determine the benefit of any future upgrades (it would be more apples-to-apples). They don't have the brand of the dyno listed, but it is a load cell dyno, not an inertia dyno. Here is what they list on their website. By the model number it's a Mustang dyno. The only thing I've heard about Mustang dynos is when I was reading Mustang (the car) magazines all the time - it was always said that they Mustang dynos gave a lower number, but it was supposed to be a more true number. Of course that was for that world, I'm not sure what that means for the turbo diesel world. They've only run 1 other diesel on it before. Regardless of the outcome, I'm still excited about the process, and I don't think it will be a total bust, I'll learn something from it either way.

MD-AWD-150 Series
Max Horsepower: 1,200 / 2,000-hp peak measurement capacity (2WD/AWD)
Max Absorption:
625-hp peak absorption (SE model)


Loading Device: Air-cooled eddy current power absorber (additional eddy current available)
Torque Measurement Device: Strain Gauge Type Dynamic Load Cell. Provides closed loop control signal for dynamic vehicle loading.
Max Speed: 175-mph (2WD) / 155-mph (AWD)
Precision machined and dynamically balanced, knurled rolls


Belted for bi-directional capability


8.525” diameter balanced rolls
30” inner track width
86” outer track width
96-122” standard wheelbase (longer wheelbase available)


Side-to-side coupled roller to prevent damage to traction control systems
 
Not sure on that one, but many with diesels have gotten really high numbers from mustang dynos.
Hmmm, are they high because the dyno is better able to load the engine and get the turbo spooled up really well....or are they high because it's a false reading? I'm guessing the former? I've read that people have tested on a Mustang dyno and then without any other changes hit a Dynojet and get a much higher number. That was for gasoline cars though so I'm not sure if that applies.
 
Alot of it depends on the dyno operator. If they're not familiar with a boosted application, they can set the load incorrect allowing it to rev too quickly giving a false high. They'll set it so that it begins revving before it's on boost, then once the boost hits, it will rev really quickly. On the other hand, I read where some had low numbers because the operator would load it down too hard. Just have to make sure the operator knows what they're doing as that is what will make or break the numbers.
 
Alot of it depends on the dyno operator. If they're not familiar with a boosted application, they can set the load incorrect allowing it to rev too quickly giving a false high. They'll set it so that it begins revving before it's on boost, then once the boost hits, it will rev really quickly. On the other hand, I read where some had low numbers because the operator would load it down too hard. Just have to make sure the operator knows what they're doing as that is what will make or break the numbers.
Gotcha. I know they have a lot of experience with boosted applications, but those are gas applications. I'll take as much video as I can and hopefully that will help tell the tale.
 
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