What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

[Paveltolz]

Cleaned up the air filter after the weekend on the dry lake bed at El Mirage. Winds were blowing hard with gusts up to 60 mph a couple of times. Mostly in the 30mph range. Then one of the guys left my doors open and dust devil went through us….
This is inside the sock covering the filter and some of what dumped out.

Yeah, the chunks were INSIDE the sock / screen.

On a positive note: I finally figured out what was causing my hood to not pop open against the safety catch when the lever was pulled. The hood latch mechanism was bent against the catch jamming it. Picture kinda shows them pretty tight together. I’d already worked it apart a little.


Up to now I’ve had to wedge my fingers between the hood and the top of the grill to get enough pressure to get the catch to release. Used vice grips to get the leverage to pull things apart vs. the blunt force trauma of an hammer. and got a gap between the catch (green) and housing. Opens great now since one of my earlier solutions was to get some extra length out of the hood’s spring.

 

[Will L.]

I’m too used to the “chevy bottom fist bump” to pop the hood that first bit. Can’t say I’ve ever fixed it correctly.

 

[Big T]

Had one tail light housing on the ‘94 split apart. So I replaced them both…

 

[dieselolds]

Well, I started on the 93 and figured might as well drop the pan and have a look. good news is there is absolutly no debris in the pan, but the fluid is quite dark. what do yall guys think...

View attachment 99455

Doesn’t look all that bad but I have seen worse.Looks like yours has the reusable pan gasket which is great.The minute I see brown colored fluid I drain it off asap and go with a new filter.I did a trans fluid and filter on my 09 Pontiac Montana van today.Since I’ve owned it about 6yrs now I’ve drained the fluid and replaced the filter three times.I just do it for peace of mind.Transmissions are always badly neglected.

Usually most people just worry about engine oil and filter but transmissions are always on the back burner until something catastrophic happens.

 

[Paveltolz]

The water temperature gauge is no longer reliable so after cleaning connections first and then replacing the sender to no avail, I’m wiring in a replacement gauge. Decided not to eliminate the stock unit in case a solution can be found (fix, miracle or replacement gauge cluster). To ensure I have accurate readings I’ll install an aftermarket gauge (AutoMeter) using the port on the passenger side head for the sender. Of course, that’s cylinder #8 and, as, I no longer have the dexterity to clamber over the motor and pull the plug to install the sender using ‘feel around,’ I dropped the inner fender to gain access. Then had to order square drive sockets to get the dumb plug out as a 7/16 square didn’t want to move with sockets that only fit close.


Got the sender wire pushed through the firewall with the other gauge sender wires. Just have to locate the gauge so it can be seen without taking eyes off the road but not block views. I’ll pick a temp location for now.

 

[ak diesel driver]

Do an overhead console gauge

 

[MrMarty51]

And two sender units like is suggested for fuel pressures.
A toggle switch to read front left and right rear temperatures.

 

[Twisted Steel Performance]

I decided to get my AC in the 93 dually going, in the past I just tried to band-aid it..

Think it's better, I'll have everything back together tomorrow for a drive...

At idle or a little more it's blowing 37* ... Idled for about 30-45 minutes not frozen yet...

 

[ak diesel driver]

Cool pun intended lol

 

[Big T]

Finally got the ABS working on the ‘99 with a reman ABS Pump Module. It also addressed the “Security” light that was on on continuously.

 

[Paveltolz]

Decided to replace the starter with the new PowerMaster 9052 I acquired a few months ago.


Since I still haven't put the inner fender back in, it was a 'while I'm in here' thing. Almost decided not too as the current unit from NAPA has been performing fine so, leave it be...'if it ain't broke' thing.

Glad I chose to go ahead because I discovered that the starter brace wasn't connected to the starter!! I mean, $%^&*
It was firmly attached at the block but, no bolt and/or stud with nut for holding it to the starter was present on the front. The threads inside the mount are fairly dirty so that bolt/stud have been AWOL a while.

It's been a couple of years since I replaced the starter on a visit to BigT's and at the time I know I had that thing buttoned up.
No damage to the block and neither the 'through bolt' holes in the old starter nor the bolts show any signs of the starter twisting. Anyway, how long it's been missing I don't know but, that's the second bullet I've dodged with this block WRT starters now.

The PowerMaster went in easily enough. The main power cable put up a discussion. I've got the upgraded set from PTWiringsolutions (AKA Racedaymechanic) and with the different connecting point on the PowerMaster vs. the OEM location, the 90* angle on the cable had to be straightened out to work.

Additionally, the brace doesn't line up correctly either so there was some adjusting that had to be done there as well but, that brace is on and tight now.


The design of the PowerMaster is such I can check and retighten easier without the drama or contortions I normally have to go through
.

Truck has always started easily before with the dual optima's and those upgraded cables but, it REALLY spins up now. Great upgrade. Worth skipping a few Cherry Coke Zero's to fund.