dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
I found out this doodabber is a glow plug controller! never seen one like this animal before. part number on the sticker is 15575722. looking online it's a GM part. wonder how this thingamig works.
-
Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.
Your truck knowledge is missing!
- Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
- We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
- Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
- NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
Problems registering? Click here to contact us!
Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!
What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....
- Thread starter deejaaa
- Start date
Paveltolz
Доверяй, но проверяй
Don't know about that GP Controller but, earlier you'd asked about a DB2 rebuild company. You might try Classic Diesel Designs in Texas. I understand they're pushing some big plungers in their maxed out units. But, I'm sure they'll do what ever spec you want or is possible. They don't do DS4s. Internal pressure regulation won't allow for the output levels desired.
830-252-9767. Ask for Joe.
830-252-9767. Ask for Joe.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Yuppers- one of the first 6.2 -660 blocks.
That is what gm used for sensor connectivity before the weatherpack.
It’s probably good and somewhere out there a guy will be wanting to find a good used one. How you two meet up is the hard part- haha.
That’s a single stat non blockoff- but with the original rotation V-Belt system- balance flow is not a concern. If you are ok with v belt- stick with it. The harder part is finding exact lentils matching belts. Used to be we could buy them together in parts stores and you could see they matched because the words were cut as they made like 10 at a time then sliced them apart. There’s some YouTube videos showing them.
If you didn’t already- spray a little oil into each cylinder with wd40 can and straw to go through the precup via glowplug hole. This will help those rings that sat so long.
Then on your engine stand rig up the starter and let her rip through several revolutions. Once you know all the oil is out - compression test time.
That is what gm used for sensor connectivity before the weatherpack.
It’s probably good and somewhere out there a guy will be wanting to find a good used one. How you two meet up is the hard part- haha.
That’s a single stat non blockoff- but with the original rotation V-Belt system- balance flow is not a concern. If you are ok with v belt- stick with it. The harder part is finding exact lentils matching belts. Used to be we could buy them together in parts stores and you could see they matched because the words were cut as they made like 10 at a time then sliced them apart. There’s some YouTube videos showing them.
If you didn’t already- spray a little oil into each cylinder with wd40 can and straw to go through the precup via glowplug hole. This will help those rings that sat so long.
Then on your engine stand rig up the starter and let her rip through several revolutions. Once you know all the oil is out - compression test time.
Big T
Well-Known Member
I’m at a loss as to what you’re talking about here?
Paveltolz
Доверяй, но проверяй
I F'd up my thread repair job and am using thread repair inserts to attempt a correction.
Big T
Well-Known Member
There should be tons of 6.5 lower intakes out there in salvage.
Big T
Well-Known Member
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
I've been told this before but on something that has a manual trans. Wouldn't something that's been in front of an automatic hardly have thrust wear?
Paveltolz
Доверяй, но проверяй
There are seemingly a bunch out there and a lot in Canada ($$$ for shipping I'm sure). What I saw were either 'Call for price' or between 125 for the upper and 250 for the lower and most sites aren't differentiating between the two. The yards I called yesterday are closed until Monday. E-Bay, as I mentioned, had listings that start at $250 with shipping as high as $150. Too many aren't for side mount turbos.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Yes. There is very little fore/aft shift of the crankshaft with auto trans. The force of the clutch throw out bearing generates a lot of wear on the thrust bearing on the crankshaft center bearing.
Big T
Well-Known Member
The main point: do not buy used engines, especially those with unknown history.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
That guy makes his $$ rebuilding engines or selling new ones. When someone wants his shop to swap engines only - he gets labor but not the $$$ selling one.
Not buying a used engine is same as not buying a used vehicle: if you buy a used car you bought a used engine, used transmission, used drive axles, used steering & suspension system.
People who don’t know anything about cars often get ripped off buying used.
The thing they demonstrated that was so worn out in that used engine- truth is if a guy with an automatic transmission put that engine in- the worn thrust bearing would stop wearing out so fast and might last a while, but I doubt it because to wear the thrust bearings that bad usually takes over 250,000 miles closer to 300k is my real guess.
What else is gone by then? Equal compression. Hence the advice to do a compression test before purchasing
Not buying a used engine is same as not buying a used vehicle: if you buy a used car you bought a used engine, used transmission, used drive axles, used steering & suspension system.
People who don’t know anything about cars often get ripped off buying used.
The thing they demonstrated that was so worn out in that used engine- truth is if a guy with an automatic transmission put that engine in- the worn thrust bearing would stop wearing out so fast and might last a while, but I doubt it because to wear the thrust bearings that bad usually takes over 250,000 miles closer to 300k is my real guess.
What else is gone by then? Equal compression. Hence the advice to do a compression test before purchasing
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
well I managed to get the cracked 6.2 off the stand and traded places with the newly acquired 6.2. I mounted the starter I had rather than using the starter that was on this engine simply because I knew it worked. ended up having to swap out brackets too. the bracket was different! ( pic below on the two starter brackets)
cranked the engine over by hand first, then wirled it over with the starter. I had already installed a gauge on the oil pressure port along with looping the cooler lines. Anddd I had a mess!! loads of carbon shot out everywhere! kept cranking until all the wd-40 and PB blaster I had sprayed in the GP holes all shot out. I was getting 60 psi on the gauge while cranking.
started getting ready to do a compression test. I had to do a repair on my test adapter right off the bat, on the first cylinder It wouldn't hold and kept leaking down. once I got that fixed it was off to the testing.
#1-100 #2-250
#3-zero #4-300
#5-280 #6-110
#7-300 #8-zero
I have a gut feeling that carbon is hanging some of the valves open or they are possibly stuck, I also am wondering if they might have been stuck down enough that when I felt the hard stop while cranking it by hand pistons have kissed some valves.
This was just a pliminary test, I still need to drop the oil pan and look at the bottom end yet. if all looks good, I will do further inspections.
question: can a bore scope be used to look at the cylinders by going in at the injector holes in the head? If so I will order another camera, I cannot find where I put the one I had that connects to my phone.
cranked the engine over by hand first, then wirled it over with the starter. I had already installed a gauge on the oil pressure port along with looping the cooler lines. Anddd I had a mess!! loads of carbon shot out everywhere! kept cranking until all the wd-40 and PB blaster I had sprayed in the GP holes all shot out. I was getting 60 psi on the gauge while cranking.
started getting ready to do a compression test. I had to do a repair on my test adapter right off the bat, on the first cylinder It wouldn't hold and kept leaking down. once I got that fixed it was off to the testing.
#1-100 #2-250
#3-zero #4-300
#5-280 #6-110
#7-300 #8-zero
I have a gut feeling that carbon is hanging some of the valves open or they are possibly stuck, I also am wondering if they might have been stuck down enough that when I felt the hard stop while cranking it by hand pistons have kissed some valves.
This was just a pliminary test, I still need to drop the oil pan and look at the bottom end yet. if all looks good, I will do further inspections.
question: can a bore scope be used to look at the cylinders by going in at the injector holes in the head? If so I will order another camera, I cannot find where I put the one I had that connects to my phone.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
no the only hole to go thru is the precup hole. i would pull the valve covers and verify the valves are moving correctly
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
That will be my next move, I am making rounds to pull the pan and inspect the under carriage. already draining old oil out and pulled the filter off. gonna eat some late lunch while it's draining. Then flip the engine over and pull the pan.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
well guys! I think we might have a good block! I pulled the pan off and see absolutely no cracks at all! I didn't photo all of the mains webbing, but i did inspect them all. donno how much $$ I will be able to sink into it as far as a full rebuild, but we shall see what all I can do. Next will be pulling the valve covers off and seeing if the valves are working properly.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
With it upside down- inspect the cylinder walls. Rotate crankas need to mo e pistons towards top of cylinder to see most of it.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
I did, didn't see much. could still see cross-hatching marks. a couple shiny areas that might be glazing.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Update: I put the pan back on and flipped it right side up. pulled the intake and IP lines, then the valve covers... these rockers are unusual. not seen any like these before ither! I rotated the crank by hand to verify all valves were moving. All looked good. then I decided to loosen all the rocker shafts so all of the valves were closed. used my blow gun on the compressor to pressurize each cylinder.
air comes out of the intake ports on #1, # 3, #2, #6, and #8. I believe I have a valve issue on the intake for just about all of them. donno if the valves are just carboned up, or they are burnt, or heads are cracked. This engine might just need replacement heads, I have heard that the 6.2's have larger valves and crack more easily than a 6.5.
This will conclude my inspections for today. but here are a couple pics of the rockers. they are really sludged up, but again I have never seen rockers like this on one of these engines.
air comes out of the intake ports on #1, # 3, #2, #6, and #8. I believe I have a valve issue on the intake for just about all of them. donno if the valves are just carboned up, or they are burnt, or heads are cracked. This engine might just need replacement heads, I have heard that the 6.2's have larger valves and crack more easily than a 6.5.
This will conclude my inspections for today. but here are a couple pics of the rockers. they are really sludged up, but again I have never seen rockers like this on one of these engines.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
If those are the rockers I think they are, some people really like them over the rocker button ones