Big T
Well-Known Member
I’ve lost the turbo nuts before. Might consider using locking nuts, not the nylock type. Also blue loctite.
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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....
- Thread starter deejaaa
- Start date
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
when going back together with the turbo, use a tiny smear of red RTV on both sides of the inner lip of that metal gasket. the inner lip should have a bump like a bead roll that gets smashed when it's bolted down. not much of a seal when the surfaces aren't perfectly flat to each other. the RTV will seal that up well and last, also not be squished out, that bump will capture it and use it like a rubber seal except for the red RTV will handle the heat.
Paveltolz
Доверяй, но проверяй
I apricate the pointers. Never experienced the turbo nut loss before. Friend of mine did when he owned this motor 12 years ago but, since I've owned the truck, which is going on 20 years, not once. Not with the original and not with this one... until now.
I'm using these serated nuts this time and will keep a closer eye on things.
Passenger side Injectors all in and no leaks at the injection lines, return lines or the cap on #8 after a five minute test run. It started with only a slight hesitation and chug then idled smooth as per the norm.
Cleaned up heat shield. Need to source another one, if possible, as this one is rusting through.
Put the Turbo Brace back on after a little OCD repainting. Good thing the brace was on all along as it probably kept the turbo locked down despite the missing nuts. There was no exhaust leakage around the seams or between the gaskets.
Intake spacer positioned.
Upper intake 'hat' w/ Cummins Elbow set up positioned for bolting up.
In the spirit of 'three steps forward, one back' I have to go back an hit a couple of holes in the lower intake with helicoil as the threads let go before I even torqued things down. I use studs to clamp the upper and lower along with the spacer I use between them. Guess it was one too many iterations of 'lets try this set up' change outs. Oh well, not the first one to let go. Had it happen on my old 'S' intake.
Air Cleaner and the driver's side injectors will get done tomorrow, maybe. I've got a carpenter gig / appointment with my grand daughter who wants to build her own ladder to get into her loft bedroom. She's an independent 12 year old and not afraid of getting her hands dirty.
I'm using these serated nuts this time and will keep a closer eye on things.
Passenger side Injectors all in and no leaks at the injection lines, return lines or the cap on #8 after a five minute test run. It started with only a slight hesitation and chug then idled smooth as per the norm.
Cleaned up heat shield. Need to source another one, if possible, as this one is rusting through.
Put the Turbo Brace back on after a little OCD repainting. Good thing the brace was on all along as it probably kept the turbo locked down despite the missing nuts. There was no exhaust leakage around the seams or between the gaskets.
Intake spacer positioned.
Upper intake 'hat' w/ Cummins Elbow set up positioned for bolting up.
In the spirit of 'three steps forward, one back' I have to go back an hit a couple of holes in the lower intake with helicoil as the threads let go before I even torqued things down. I use studs to clamp the upper and lower along with the spacer I use between them. Guess it was one too many iterations of 'lets try this set up' change outs. Oh well, not the first one to let go. Had it happen on my old 'S' intake.
Air Cleaner and the driver's side injectors will get done tomorrow, maybe. I've got a carpenter gig / appointment with my grand daughter who wants to build her own ladder to get into her loft bedroom. She's an independent 12 year old and not afraid of getting her hands dirty.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
I vote you have the best looking 6.5 under the hood there! I jeally LOL all that shiny stuff!
Those nuts should hold and lock in place well, I was also thinking nord locks too but looks like you mastered that with those nuts.
Those nuts should hold and lock in place well, I was also thinking nord locks too but looks like you mastered that with those nuts.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
@Paveltolz
Sorry my friend- the “while you’re in there” flags have popped up. Rather than fixing that old intake, I think you might need that SUPER COOL intake that Chris sells with the built in water to air intercooler.
Ya know ya want it… (peer pressure, peer pressure!). Haha.
Sorry my friend- the “while you’re in there” flags have popped up. Rather than fixing that old intake, I think you might need that SUPER COOL intake that Chris sells with the built in water to air intercooler.
Ya know ya want it… (peer pressure, peer pressure!). Haha.
Paveltolz
Доверяй, но проверяй
I'm good with what I got. FWIW, Link in the banner returns as 'unsecure' with Google and Windows Edge so I can't see anything there. Safari says it can't connect either. I did find a picture of an intake set up on the TSP Facebook page. Is this what you're referring too?
Paveltolz
Доверяй, но проверяй
Got up early and knocked out the driver's side injectors, reinstalled the air cleaner and double checked the down pipe to turbo joining. Started easily enough with a slight cough as the air purged and everything steadied out. The wife listened and shown a light on the downpipe/turbo connection while I stuffed a softball size wad of rags in the tailpipe. No fuel or exhaust leakage so I took it out for a quick test drive and there's noticeable change in performance, acceleration, throttle response etc. Still lively. EGT's seemed a little cooler than my test drive numbers a couple of weeks ago. Normally I'm what I call 100* below the indicated speed (400* @ 50mph, 500* @ 60 etc.). Now I'm closer to 150* lower or about 450* # 60mph, 550* at 70mph.
I'm testing a set for a guy that built some for Bill H. to try in his LSR only mine I set to pop at 1950 vs. the 2900 he's got 'em set too.
Anyone else besides @dbrannon79 want some clean 6.5 engine porn pics before I close this up and let it get normal looking again?
I'm testing a set for a guy that built some for Bill H. to try in his LSR only mine I set to pop at 1950 vs. the 2900 he's got 'em set too.
Anyone else besides @dbrannon79 want some clean 6.5 engine porn pics before I close this up and let it get normal looking again?
Big T
Well-Known Member
OK finally got my stainless work table/cabinet loaded in the ‘99 Burb. Also a second 8’ stainless work table, plus my wife’s two glass top tables and legs for all of them. The larger portion of the second row seat would not fit. Frame legs would hit the ceiling and the wheel well in the back, so they are staying down here. Could not remove the caster wheels to make more space. All the seat bolts are installed in the truck, so I don’t get water intrusion. Snuck in the outboard and fuel tank. This Burb can hold a lot. Barn doors fully close with the second row seats removed.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
jrsavoie
Recruit
I always thought our 1989 Suburban had more usable space than the 95, 97 and 98
Paveltolz
Доверяй, но проверяй
Return line between injectors 5 & 7 turns out to be junk. 25 miles from home and the truck gave itself a diesel bath. Called AAA and they gave it a piggy-back ride home because I wasn't going to mess with it in the gathering darkness while the motor was still hot and I don't have tools etc.
This morning I did a lot of fiddle farting with removing injectors, testing fit etc. and discovered the line would split when attaching it to number 7.
I had removed the woven fabric cover for this picture. I'd wanted to get a better view back in that hell hole where 7 resides amongst the wiring harness, fuel lines, steering shaft, etc.
The hose was secured nicely on #5 but, after initially seeming secure on #7, I could see it had shifted to an odd angle and that's when I discovered the splitting. Removed the woven fiber cover for better visibility, clipped it back and tried once more but it just split again.
All the other lines are still securely attached to the other injectors. Just this one hose was toast. I hope it was the end of the roll or something because to have this defect on a long run of hoses cut for kits....
The kit was a Delphi product so, buyer beware.
Dug out an old line from the pile, clipped 1/8 off each end, mud wrestled it into place (thinner hose) and its on snuggly to both 5 & 7.
This morning I did a lot of fiddle farting with removing injectors, testing fit etc. and discovered the line would split when attaching it to number 7.
I had removed the woven fabric cover for this picture. I'd wanted to get a better view back in that hell hole where 7 resides amongst the wiring harness, fuel lines, steering shaft, etc.
The hose was secured nicely on #5 but, after initially seeming secure on #7, I could see it had shifted to an odd angle and that's when I discovered the splitting. Removed the woven fiber cover for better visibility, clipped it back and tried once more but it just split again.
All the other lines are still securely attached to the other injectors. Just this one hose was toast. I hope it was the end of the roll or something because to have this defect on a long run of hoses cut for kits....
The kit was a Delphi product so, buyer beware.
Dug out an old line from the pile, clipped 1/8 off each end, mud wrestled it into place (thinner hose) and its on snuggly to both 5 & 7.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
I seem to recall others having this same issue with a certain type of return hose. I had bought my pre cut kit from the auto parts house. I remember it was a dorman brand that came with the upper plenum gasket and clamps.
Big T
Well-Known Member
I had this issue on return line hoses after installing the Optimizer (thanks Paveltolz). Had to get another set of return lines. Ended up driving the last half of the trip from Montana to SoCal with an unknown, but slow leak on the first injector on the driver’s side.
It has been fine since. Anymore, It’s a crap shoot on these injector return lines. It took a bit to work through all the leaks after the engine install.
It has been fine since. Anymore, It’s a crap shoot on these injector return lines. It took a bit to work through all the leaks after the engine install.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Yes that’s the intake from Chris that since I want & can’t have it -I’m trying to impose it on others. Haha. Seriously though- cooling the air is same as adding boost but without all the negative side effects. More boost adds heat, adds to cylinder pressure, both colder air and boost add power and increase mpg (if ya keep foot under control on the happy pedal) but cooler air lowers egt, lowers ect, lowers cylinder pressure per hp created.
But that is a chunk of money to drop.
On the return hoses- I still have good luck with the original hoses like the kit Leroy sells. But I hate the little clamps. The best hose is what the one you have is doing a poor job imitating.
Pop by a Mercedes dealership parts room. By a few feet of the injector return line for the OM 602 or the OM603. Thats the two diesel engines that give diesel cars a good name. But you have to get it from the dealership! Online crap is not the same.
You push it on without fighting it, and it is there forever. Side cutters to remove the hose then razor slice the side to peel off the tips is easier than the he twist & pull to remove. And ya get to reuse the now slightly shorter hose still.
But that is a chunk of money to drop.
On the return hoses- I still have good luck with the original hoses like the kit Leroy sells. But I hate the little clamps. The best hose is what the one you have is doing a poor job imitating.
Pop by a Mercedes dealership parts room. By a few feet of the injector return line for the OM 602 or the OM603. Thats the two diesel engines that give diesel cars a good name. But you have to get it from the dealership! Online crap is not the same.
You push it on without fighting it, and it is there forever. Side cutters to remove the hose then razor slice the side to peel off the tips is easier than the he twist & pull to remove. And ya get to reuse the now slightly shorter hose still.