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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

He might have ditched them after coming up with the girdles?
Maybe does them to order?
Maybe bumped my head and imagined that he had some?
Mandela effect?

Search almost defeated me, but I got it.

New technology valve cover gaskets

Finally a solution so you don't have to glue valve covers to the head anymore! These are reusable and you won't destroy your covers when trying to remove them after they were glued on with RTV. http://leroydiesel.com/products/valve-cover-gasket-kit/
www.thetruckstop.us
 
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well I guess it's cork gaskets for me LOL. I'm gathering a parts list for replacing the rocker buttons for bolts and doing the gaskets too. also might be replacing the starter with a powermaster if funds will allow.

I ran across some 1/4" barrel nuts on amazon but not sure what the ID is of the rocker tube. I would assume a 1/2" diameter barrel nut would be able to slide into the tube. also searching for some 1/4" saddle washers with some thickness to them. all I can find are nylon ones so far. I figured using the barrel nuts I could use a grade 8 bolt, saddle washer and nord-loc with some "never come off juice" (thread locker) too. not sure about nylon saddles though, I would be afraid they would split when tightening down.
 
Waiting for parts and an injector tester.
I got a swagelok 5/16ths ferrel to 1/4” pipe adapter.
When the fitting arrived, looked at the ferrel end and the hole is big enough for about a 3/8ths inch tube. I thought, WT Crap, they sent me the wrong fitting.
Then I look deeper into the ferrel end, ahhhh, the guide hole in deeper fits the 5/16ths inch tube.
These high pressure fittings has a heck of a mechanical ferrel system.
 
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MrMarty51 said:
Waiting for parts and an injector tester.
I got a swagelok 5/16ths ferrel to 1/4” pipe adapter.
When the fitting arrived, looked at the ferrel end and the hole is big enough for about a 3/8ths inch tube. I thought, WT Crap, they sent me the wrong fitting.
Then I look deeper into the ferrel end, ahhhh, the guide hole in deeper fits the 5/16ths inch tube.
These high pressure fittings has a heck of a mechanical ferrel system.
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be careful with some of these type of fittings. they are all dependent on the OD of the tube to lock and hold the tube into the fitting. we have several of these types here at work all are classified on the OD of the tube but several tubes have different thicknesses for the ID to OD. this might throw a monkey wrench in the works of building an adapter for the tester.
 
dbrannon79 said:
be careful with some of these type of fittings. they are all dependent on the OD of the tube to lock and hold the tube into the fitting. we have several of these types here at work all are classified on the OD of the tube but several tubes have different thicknesses for the ID to OD. this might throw a monkey wrench in the works of building an adapter for the tester.
Click to expand...
Okay, I will be very careful. If it aint right, then it will be weld time. 😹😹😹
 
dbrannon79 said:
I was thinking in the rehlm of the factory injector line being a metric tube size. Naw GM wouldn't do that would they !! HAHA.
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OD is 5/16ths. Not sure of ID, a lot smaller than standard tube. Injector tubes is thick walled, stainless steel too I think. I cut one with a Ridgid brand tubing cutter, going at it slow and gentle like, took quite a while to get cut through it.
I did fit the end of the cut tube into that ferrel adapter fitting and it was a nice fit. Guess I’ll find out when I start compressing it down.
 
So quick question... what usually is the cause of a power steering growl noise like the pump is starving for fluid when it's full. My truck made this noise that sounded exactly like it would if the pump just ran dry when I was turning into a parking lot this evening. it baffled me since the fluid is full!

I have heard the noise before and I know it has had issues with the fluid getting hot. at least the steel lines up by the booster can get so hot I can't keep my hand on them long. that hasn't been an issue all through this fall and winter season. now that the weather is warming up I might be wise to get some kind of clamp on the line temp probe to see just how hot the fluid is getting.
 
I have flushed it a while back when I had rebuilt the gear box. but never did figure out what was causing the heat build up with the fluid. just used the house brand PS fluid from the auto parts store.

in the past, I have also replaced the pump and booster both due to leaking. I also have issues with the steering seemingly getting a little stiffer when the fluid gets hot too. it's not so stiff that the power steering isn't working, it's just that you can tell a difference when it's cold vs when your have been driving for a while. when it's cold, the steering is like butter. after about a 20 minute drive in the summer it gets a little harder to steer. I can still steer with one hand but it feels like it gets close to that breaking point that one hand gets tired and you want to use both hands on the wheel!
 
Do you have a cooler on yours? If not- start with that and ensure routing. Imo go back to an old thread with the history what youve done or start a new one focused on it. Everything will get jumbled and a year later you won’t be able to search it here. Also if ya find the hiccup and post it on this thread- no one a few months down the road will benefit from it because google searches will never find it.
 
I will start go and look for one of the threads or start a new one. I just ordered one of those oven temp probes that has a digital readout so I can at least start seeing what the temp is getting up to

it has the factory cooler hooked up behind t he grille. iirc it's tied into the return lines from the gear box to the pump.
 
Honestly I doubt that tiny cooler can actually do any cooling, it only has a couple of loops in it and is small, mounted off to the side of the radiator in such a place that there isn't that much air flow. I wonder if it would help things if I were to install a trans cooler somewhere, maybe even with an electric fan going at it full time.

it wouldn't be that hard to mount one under the truck and attach some larger computer case fans to it with some zip ties. I have a large collection of those fans that seem to push quite a bit of air flow. I have one mounted inside the center console I have. the console is from a newer burb that has built in rear vents for the AC. I had snagged from the pick a part yard to replace the factory broken console. stuffed one of those fans in the front just to push a little air to the back seats. it actually blows fairly well through the vents. using a couple on a trans cooler mounted underneath might help matters.
 
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