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Used Engine

Rodd said:
I just remembered when I was pulling the engine the firewall disintegrated. What firewall insulation is easiest to install and works best?
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Try LMC Truck. I haven't looked there, but they seem to have damn near everything for our trucks, even GM discontinued stuff.
 
Do you know how to mic a journal, correctly? That will be a crucial starting point for fitting new bearing shells for rod journals where you can't read the size on the back of the bearing shell, as it will tell you if there's any taper across the journal and/or eccentricity. The one (and only, IMHO) good thing GM did with this POS crank was to nitride the main and rod journals, so any wear (other than catastrophic damage) is generally to the bearing shell and not the crank journal itself. You can always re-install that piston/rod assembly into the block, put back in the bearing shells and plastigauge it to check it (and check the others BEFORE removal from the block, next) to see just how badly the bearings are worn. Of course, if you can see the next layer of the bearing shell wearing through anywhere, that set is shot!
 
Husker6.5 said:
Do you know how to mic a journal, correctly? That will be a crucial starting point for fitting new bearing shells for rod journals where you can't read the size on the back of the bearing shell, as it will tell you if there's any taper across the journal and/or eccentricity. The one (and only, IMHO) good thing GM did with this POS crank was to nitride the main and rod journals, so any wear (other than catastrophic damage) is generally to the bearing shell and not the crank journal itself. You can always re-install that piston/rod assembly into the block, put back in the bearing shells and plastigauge it to check it (and check the others BEFORE removal from the block, next) to see just how badly the bearings are worn. Of course, if you can see the next layer of the bearing shell wearing through anywhere, that set is shot!
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Thanks! I was talking to a friend at church today who has been a diesel mech for 40 years and he said the same thing. He's going to come by and take a look at it for me this week. Do you know what the specs are supposed to be on the crank journals?
 
Here is what the piston looks like after soaking in Berryman's chemtool. I noticed a discoloration and a rough spot on the edge. Anyone see any issues. The 2nd video has a bearing. I noticed that all the bearings except the set for the # 1 piston have little notches in them. I'm assuming that's normal.


 
The rod bearings I took out are clevite. I was looking at rockauto and they have mahle/clevite and sealed power for about $65 for a complete set. Is one better than the other? They also have enginetech but they are only $26. I'm guessing the enginetech are cheap Chinese crap.
 
Mahle/Clevite, Sealed Power and TRW are all part of the Federal-Mogul umbrella company. Essentially "competing brands" that are for all intents and purposes the same thing. You're right, the "cheap" ones are just that, off-shore produced with questionable quality control and materials that may or may not last as long as the OEM they're replacing.
 
I was thinking about the worn bearings. The vehicle the engine came out of had 154k on it. If you look at the beginning of this thread the video I posted showed a chip off the corner of the crank. If it was put in without balancing after the chip could an out of balance crank wear bearings prematurely?
 
Rodd said:
I was thinking about the worn bearings. The vehicle the engine came out of had 154k on it. If you look at the beginning of this thread the video I posted showed a chip off the corner of the crank. If it was put in without balancing after the chip could an out of balance crank wear bearings prematurely?
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Yup!
And so much more.
I can't believe someone would use a crank that was so damaged. But, I guess if you could get it balanced, it would work just fine.

At least as good as the original was "balanced" *cough*

154k is barely broken in on a diesel.

Rodd, you're pretty deep into this motor, I would suggest doing a LOT of reading on this and other forums first and also getting a factory repair manual. Most of all the information you may need will be there at your fingertips!
And then the considerable brains here can help you fill in the blanks. : )>
 
Rodd said:
I was thinking about the worn bearings. The vehicle the engine came out of had 154k on it. If you look at the beginning of this thread the video I posted showed a chip off the corner of the crank. If it was put in without balancing after the chip could an out of balance crank wear bearings prematurely?
Click to expand...

Time out here! Let's step back and ask about that 6 month warranty. You got a wore out engine and iffy crankshaft.

When you add up parts and cost: is it less than a $2000 6.2 military take out? Less than a $3500 6.5 military take out?

Let's see a vid of the cylinders. And the main webs aka metal in block that holds the crankshaft.

Crack free and they help with bearings etc via warranty?

By bad example you are making me feel better about turning down a local high mile 6.2. Rather I am getting a 6.2 low mile military take out to run the 6.5 stuff on again. It's all good as a learning experience.
 
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