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Used Engine

WarWagon

Well it hits on 7 of 8...
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Yup!
And so much more.
I can't believe someone would use a crank that was so damaged. But, I guess if you could get it balanced, it would work just fine.

At least as good as the original was "balanced" *cough*

154k is barely broken in on a diesel.

Rodd, you're pretty deep into this motor, I would suggest doing a LOT of reading on this and other forums first and also getting a factory repair manual. Most of all the information you may need will be there at your fingertips!
And then the considerable brains here can help you fill in the blanks. : )>
Barely broken in... Famous last words when you are buying a wore out POS. It can go a million miles, but, this one didn't... :p
 

MrMarty51

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In the video of the bearings, if You are referring to the notch in the very end of the bearing, that notch is to keep the bearing from spinning in its housing.
If that notch is flattened on the back side, then the bearing has been spinning within the rod and then the rod will require machining to get it back to specs to hold a bearing.
 

royunion

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Consider .001 undersize rod bearings only along with all the rest at your option of what everyone else has already recommended. You do not have to grind or remove the crank - just plasti-gauge them to make sure they are not TOO tight.

It will do wonders for oil pressure. with 254K on it the crank has had at least .001 beat off of it.
 

Rodd

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Rodd

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Finally got the engine completely torn down except for the 3 square holed plugs. They are smaller than 3/8 and bigger than 1/4. Anyone know the size of them? Also Merry Christmas to me. I was inspecting the crank and cleaning it up and found this....

 

Will L.

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Yeah, that looks to me like is a contamination score- like chunk of crusy oil or small debris built up innthat jornal then broke free and came out.

Polish it and coat the bearings just make sure that bearing is in the minimum of the clearance range when you do it.
 

Rodd

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Yeah, that looks to me like is a contamination score- like chunk of crusy oil or small debris built up innthat jornal then broke free and came out.

Polish it and coat the bearings just make sure that bearing is in the minimum of the clearance range when you do it.
I am going to send the bearings to Chris to coat. He coats the cranks as well. Should I have him coat it as well? I haven't checked pricing on a new crank, coating, or polishing. I am taking it to a machine shop to inspect it and possibly balance it.
 

MrMarty51

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If You have a set if micrometers You can measure the cranking shaft and see if it is within specs.
a machine shop will also do that before polishing the crank, to be sure it will still be within specs after it is polished.
If it needs to be ground, then get it coated after the grinding.
One nice thing about getting the crank ground then coated, no more select to fit bearing, they should all be a nice undersize where You dont have to select fit each journal. Also get the rods reconditioned, then they too should all be a nice uniform size.
 

Husker6.5

135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
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Make sure if you are going to have that journal worked on, that the machine shop knows that all journals on that crank were nitrited - before the shop destoys a carbide cutter or two - and that the journal(s) worked on should be nitrited after td he work is completed.
 

WarWagon

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So you have decided to forget about any warranty? I am just watching you do a full rebuild on worn out engine with a questionable crankshaft and I missed the reasoning. The overall cost is what I question. Not doubting you doing it right, but, this wasn't your goal at first.

Crankshafts are not cheap to refurb. A used one may be cheaper.
 

Rodd

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So you have decided to forget about any warranty? I am just watching you do a full rebuild on worn out engine with a questionable crankshaft and I missed the reasoning. The overall cost is what I question. Not doubting you doing it right, but, this wasn't your goal at first.

Crankshafts are not cheap to refurb. A used one may be cheaper.
The machine shop where I took it is where all the local diesel shops send their stuff to do. I spoke with a few friends who are diesel mechanics and they said to have this shop check out the crank. They all said that if the engine had 254k on it then the crank was rebalanced after it was chipped otherwise it wouldn't have had that many miles on it. They also said that the area where the scratch on the crank is right where there is an oil groove like what will said in his post, and if they can polish it without taking anything off it should be fine. I told the machine shop not to take anything off. They agreed that the scratch is more visual and is hardly noticeable to the touch. I did decide to do a full rebuild reusing the crank, cam, rods, and pistons.
 

Twisted Steel Performance

Formerly: sctrailrider
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Are you going to use new rings? I recommend a set from Total seal, you will need to gap them all to your bores..

With that many miles you should have the machine shop measure the bores and make sure they aren't out of spec/too big compared to the pistons and run a hone through them for the new rings to seat against..
 
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