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Used Engine

Rodd

Recruit
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Location
Antelope, CA
Regarding the main cracks i'm with the others high mileage blocks this is going to be par of the course. So I'll be intrigued to see how the next one tears down.

Regarding the cracks Robyn over on the page reports good results with this cold repair. Worth a thought seeing as your in this realm.

https://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/showthread.php?t=39448
https://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/showthread.php?t=32983&highlight=lock+stitch+inserts

Cheers
Nobby
Thanks nobby. A great write up by missy. given the location of the cracks I don't think Lock and stitch would work. I haven't seen any posts from Missy in years. Is she still around?
 

Rodd

Recruit
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Location
Antelope, CA
The stupid auto dismantler where I got my used engine from said that my warranty is invalid because I opened it up. All the receipt says is a 6 month warranty. It doesn't have any fine print or anything else saying what voids the warranty. I used my visa when I purchased it so hopefully they will accept the claim. A friend of mine who owns his repair shop had someone put in a false claim on him and it took 6 months to get his money. At the very least I'll make this guy jump through some hoops and lose some hair if I don't get my $ back.

The machine shop who does all the local diesel repair shops work in the area said they can fix it so I'm having them fix it. I am going to do a new crank as well since the one that came with the engine had a chip. Rockauto only has 1 type available. Is this a good one or should I go elsewhere?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2754358&cc=1161571&jsn=479
 
Last edited:

Rodd

Recruit
Messages
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Location
Antelope, CA
Looking for a new crank I heard the GEP crank is induction hardened. Does anyone know if the Scat crank is? and if I did want a GEP where would I look to get one?
 
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Location
alaska
Gep cranks are cast iron. I assume they're coated like the GM ones. Scat cranks are supposed to be cast steel. I'm not sure how much stronger that makes to them if any. I don't think they're coated
 

Will L.

Well-Known Member
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Location
Boulder City Nv
The GEP cranks are not nitride coated, they are induction hardened, wether optimizer or p400.
This is an advantage over the nitride GM cranks as it is stronger and you can cut an optimizer crankshaft without further treatment if needed.

Cast iron and cast steel which is better is a long unproven argument on both sides. Flip a coin really.

For strength of crankshaft (any part really) chryogenic treatment makes it much stronger. When I was doing the crazy 6.5s we had some cranks chryo’d and those cranks never failed. If I was rich n famous like y’all, I would do now what I used to do in the racing days- send every metal component in for chryo.

The best in dream $ land is all machine work first, full induction hardening, then chryo, then coatings.
 

Rodd

Recruit
Messages
1,359
Likes
307
Location
Antelope, CA
The GEP cranks are not nitride coated, they are induction hardened, wether optimizer or p400.
This is an advantage over the nitride GM cranks as it is stronger and you can cut an optimizer crankshaft without further treatment if needed.

Cast iron and cast steel which is better is a long unproven argument on both sides. Flip a coin really.

For strength of crankshaft (any part really) chryogenic treatment makes it much stronger. When I was doing the crazy 6.5s we had some cranks chryo’d and those cranks never failed. If I was rich n famous like y’all, I would do now what I used to do in the racing days- send every metal component in for chryo.

The best in dream $ land is all machine work first, full induction hardening, then chryo, then coatings.
So If I understand you correctly from the names full induction hardening is heated? Chryo is cold treated? and coatings are ceramic. How do they do chryo (temp and how long?)
 

Will L.

Well-Known Member
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Location
Boulder City Nv
Once upon a time.Yeah, idk.
Mega cold a long time. I just paid the bill and got my stuff back. The place I used to use was drop it off one week and pick up the next. They don’t do it for the public anymore, just gubmint work. I need to find a new outfit.
 

WarWagon

Well it hits on 7 of 8...
Messages
8,810
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3,621
Location
AZ
I have a used crankshaft in the garage I could send your way. Frankly for the "iffy" repair of a main crack a new crank is wasted money. Cast iron is very difficult to successfully repair cracks in. A DSG girdle like Kennedy Diesel sells would help band aid the weak GM mains.
 

Rodd

Recruit
Messages
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307
Location
Antelope, CA
I have a used crankshaft in the garage I could send your way. Frankly for the "iffy" repair of a main crack a new crank is wasted money. Cast iron is very difficult to successfully repair cracks in. A DSG girdle like Kennedy Diesel sells would help band aid the weak GM mains.
The plan is to use the kennnedy girdle. If you have a good used crank I'll take it.
 

WarWagon

Well it hits on 7 of 8...
Messages
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3,621
Location
AZ
The plan is to use the kennnedy girdle. If you have a good used crank I'll take it.
Sorry I spoke too soon. @Will L. and I traded pictures of a 6.5 crank and checked out the rear main seal difference. I have a 6.2 and old one at that. (That will not work.) Old 6.2's have 2 piece rope rear main seal. Newer 6.2's and all 6.5's have the 1 piece rear main. See pics of what I have below. I suggest you call Ted's Trucks N Stuff as they sell parts and may have a used 6.5 crankshaft, cheap.

IMG_20190113_221525791.jpg

IMG_20190113_221518377.jpg
 

Rodd

Recruit
Messages
1,359
Likes
307
Location
Antelope, CA
Sorry I spoke too soon. @Will L. and I traded pictures of a 6.5 crank and checked out the rear main seal difference. I have a 6.2 and old one at that. (That will not work.) Old 6.2's have 2 piece rope rear main seal. Newer 6.2's and all 6.5's have the 1 piece rear main. See pics of what I have below. I suggest you call Ted's Trucks N Stuff as they sell parts and may have a used 6.5 crankshaft, cheap.

View attachment 55402

View attachment 55401
Thanks! I'll call teds.
 
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