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Possible Engine Build for my 93 Truck

That was or is the plan. to run it! I think it will be fine for what it is. since I'm not having any machine work done to the block.

I really appreciate the offers though! maybe in the future I will need it done though.
 
Looking at my shopping list again... what's better brass or steel freeze plugs? I pulled out the three on each side of the block to clean it out. I didn't touch the one in the back since it covers the cam, I don't think coolant runs behind that one and I didn't see any others on the engine.

the kit shows those 6 plugs, the tiny ones on the heads and the one at the back over the cam. I have not touched the ones in the heads or the one over the cam.
 
Looking at my shopping list again... what's better brass or steel freeze plugs? I pulled out the three on each side of the block to clean it out. I didn't touch the one in the back since it covers the cam, I don't think coolant runs behind that one and I didn't see any others on the engine.

the kit shows those 6 plugs, the tiny ones on the heads and the one at the back over the cam. I have not touched the ones in the heads or the one over the cam.
I’ve used both types.Never had a problem with either.
 
Old timer mechanic told Me to thoroughly coat the coolant plugs with Aviation Permatex No.1 gasket sealer.
He said that would keep the coolant off of them and keep them from rusting out, so I always did that.
I mentioned the hot coolant rinsing off the sealer, he said it gets some but not all if it. 🤷
He also did not recommend brass plugs for the same reason as what @ak diesel driver mentioned.
Something about expansion and contraction rates causing them to move.
Remanned engines always have steel plugs, cost 🤷
 
I have been going through the shopping cart on RA to consolidate on shipping cost since everything I have in the cart is showing to be coming from two different warehouse locations. that is what's driving up the shipping cost.

There isn't many choices on types of head gaskets thought, I was looking at the catalogs in our local auto parts houses and they all just show the flat composite gaskets not the ones that have that special seal on them like what came off the engine.

Head bolts.... is there a difference between Fel-Pro and Mahle? I found Fel-Pro head bolt sets on the jungle site for $20 a set also do they need any type of sealant for the head bolts on the threads or on the face under the head of the bolts?
 
Another question I have is on the oil pump. are they worthy to put a new kit in them? or just get the new one? when I was cranking it checking for compression, I was seeing the gauge shoot up to just above 60psi and then drop back to 60 like it was hitting it's relief. I haven't looked at it to see if it's a high volume or standard pump, but from what I have read online, the high volume pumps have a "spacer" in the body.

RA doesn't show a high volume pump for a 6.2 but they do for a 6.5, they also show a rebuild kit for the 6.2 pump. I also have seen where they talk about the pump having a mounting "stud" on the main cap. this 6.2 uses a long bolt to hold the pump to the main cap
 
I have been going through the shopping cart on RA to consolidate on shipping cost since everything I have in the cart is showing to be coming from two different warehouse locations. that is what's driving up the shipping cost.

There isn't many choices on types of head gaskets thought, I was looking at the catalogs in our local auto parts houses and they all just show the flat composite gaskets not the ones that have that special seal on them like what came off the engine.

Head bolts.... is there a difference between Fel-Pro and Mahle? I found Fel-Pro head bolt sets on the jungle site for $20 a set also do they need any type of sealant for the head bolts on the threads or on the face under the head of the bolts?
I’ve used both types of bolts.Never had an issue with either.Normally no additional sealer is needed.Its already preapplied when you buy them.
 
Another question I have is on the oil pump. are they worthy to put a new kit in them? or just get the new one? when I was cranking it checking for compression, I was seeing the gauge shoot up to just above 60psi and then drop back to 60 like it was hitting it's relief. I haven't looked at it to see if it's a high volume or standard pump, but from what I have read online, the high volume pumps have a "spacer" in the body.

RA doesn't show a high volume pump for a 6.2 but they do for a 6.5, they also show a rebuild kit for the 6.2 pump. I also have seen where they talk about the pump having a mounting "stud" on the main cap. this 6.2 uses a long bolt to hold the pump to the main cap
I’d just buy a new pump with screen.The 6.2 never did use a high volume pump.Only the 506 6.5 diesel which had the oil cooling jets above the main bearings.
 
I don’t remember if 6.5 hv can drop in or not based on if the oil pan is different for that year truck. But here is a post I made on pumps before:

Ok, got off phone with Brian in the Melling Tech Support.
They still only offer the two pumps, standard and HV. Then the different pickup tubes for the 2 different pan.

He said:
gear end play spec is 0.004-0.008
Gear : housing side is 0.002-0.005
Tighter the better for increased efficiency & volume.
The plastic guide piece is supposed to come with new pumps but if ever needed part # is
M-55024 And unfortunately no metal options made.

The pressure piston is a one off. The spring for the HV pump is M-77030 and is the brown spring used in the Billet high volume big block Chevy pumps. There is no higher pressure spring made. But remember: high spring pressure doesn’t mean higher oil pressure - that is the point the pump will bypass. The spring pressure in the BBC billet pumps is rated 80-85psi - however speaking to them in the past a guy said he found notes that it holds to 90 psi in our pumps (probably because of the piston design).
So if you are building an engine where you are ok with a lower pressure maximum- you can order softer springs for it and free up some HP.
The general rule of thumb in gasoline HP engines is 10psi for every 1,000 rpm. So theoretically we should never need above 50 psi unless you are in runaway. No way can I condone 6,000 rpm that I once pushed. I had full scatter shields and used it & did damage (all be it minor) to the racetrack from it.

Because we loose pictures here time to time:
M255HV-294S
M= Melling. 255 series pump is 6.2&6.5 engine. -294S is pickup truck pan. -295S is Hummer pan which is slanted from front to sump and holds more oil volume.

If you order a pump without the -294/295 you are getting pump only and no pickup tube.
This is a MISTAKE imo. The tubes are known to come out. Jb weld, braze, make a bracket but always do something to retain the pickup tube because they fail. Remember to remove the piston when welding it. Reuse of the pickup tube is almost a certainty for it to come loose.

Sorry, I forgot the stock part number of
M255294S
This is what came stock in all the piston oil squirter blocks.

The M255HV294S is the one that is 10% more volume and a higher pressure spring.

SO THERE IS 3 OPTIONS
6.2 and non squirter
6.5 with squirter
6.5 with squirter high volume & higher pressure.
Melling has offered the HV pump from the time they made the squirter model.

The maximum allowed pressure spec is 94psi, but is supposed to be 80 psi.

Then this link just texted to me:
 
No matter which oil pump you get- you can use the ol die grinder and burrs or stones and make some very nice improvements on the oil flow through it.
Search what was taught by Smokey Yunick. That guy lead the world in things like this. Copy how he showed to do it best you can and even your first time will make major improvements.
 
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