ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
Yes
-
Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.
Your truck knowledge is missing!
- Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
- We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
- Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
- NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
Problems registering? Click here to contact us!
Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!
Possible Engine Build for my 93 Truck
- Thread starter dbrannon79
- Start date
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Well, I just got the heads off. it was a chore for all the other things I had to unbolt off the block to get them off LOL. almost all of the bolts had some sort of crusty coating on them that was flaking off, idk if that was some sort of sealant. I know it wasn't silicone thought.
both heads look crack free between the valves but there is quite a bit of carbon buildup on the faces. the only thing I found is on the exhaust valve seat looks like it might be burnt on #7 though that cylinder had 300psi compression, it's hard to tell, but I will need to remove the valves to see it better.
cylinders all have a very small ring ridge that I can catch with my fingernail. no scratches that I can see or feel in the walls. and if I shine the flashlight just right I can start to see what's left of the crosshatching about half way down. some of the cylinders have what looks like some staining that is kinda orangish in color, it's smooth and I can't feel any pitting. maybe it's old diesel but not sure.
Here are some pics.
Passenger head (#8 left)
Drivers head (#1 right)
#7 exhaust valve. look at about the 12:30-1 oclock position you can see a gap This cylinder had 300 psi compression
#1 cylinder. the lines cannot be felt with my fingernail.
#8 cylinder. this one had zero compression, but by tapping on the valve stems and pressurizing the cylinder with air, it sealed up
both heads look crack free between the valves but there is quite a bit of carbon buildup on the faces. the only thing I found is on the exhaust valve seat looks like it might be burnt on #7 though that cylinder had 300psi compression, it's hard to tell, but I will need to remove the valves to see it better.
cylinders all have a very small ring ridge that I can catch with my fingernail. no scratches that I can see or feel in the walls. and if I shine the flashlight just right I can start to see what's left of the crosshatching about half way down. some of the cylinders have what looks like some staining that is kinda orangish in color, it's smooth and I can't feel any pitting. maybe it's old diesel but not sure.
Here are some pics.
Passenger head (#8 left)
Drivers head (#1 right)
#7 exhaust valve. look at about the 12:30-1 oclock position you can see a gap This cylinder had 300 psi compression
#1 cylinder. the lines cannot be felt with my fingernail.
#8 cylinder. this one had zero compression, but by tapping on the valve stems and pressurizing the cylinder with air, it sealed up
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Moving forward, I have a couple questions. I need to purchase a couple of tools to dissemble the head further.
I need a valve spring compressor. Which one should I get. don't need an expensive one since this will most likely be the only time it gets used.
another question: I plan to drag the heads outside and go to town with some de-greaser and the power washer to clean off as much of the sludge as I can along with the carbon. Can I safely do the same with the block leaving the lifters, crank, cam, and pistons installed. I plan to strip the block down further removing the IP, water pump, HB, timing cover, and oil pump prior to blasting it clean.
another tool I have been thinking about getting is a "super scraper" to clean off the head gasket surfaces. am I safe using that on those surfaces, I have been told not to use anything abrasive on those surfaces. also can I safely wire wheel the cylinder top edges where all the carbon buildup is with my drill.
I need a valve spring compressor. Which one should I get. don't need an expensive one since this will most likely be the only time it gets used.
another question: I plan to drag the heads outside and go to town with some de-greaser and the power washer to clean off as much of the sludge as I can along with the carbon. Can I safely do the same with the block leaving the lifters, crank, cam, and pistons installed. I plan to strip the block down further removing the IP, water pump, HB, timing cover, and oil pump prior to blasting it clean.
another tool I have been thinking about getting is a "super scraper" to clean off the head gasket surfaces. am I safe using that on those surfaces, I have been told not to use anything abrasive on those surfaces. also can I safely wire wheel the cylinder top edges where all the carbon buildup is with my drill.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Will this one work? or do I need a different style?
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Here is the super scraper..
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Valve spring compressor can often be rented free at auto parts stores doing the pay first then return for refund. If you are planning on rebuilding multiple engines- then yes you can buy one. Otherwise there is also some diy tricks you can learn on YouTube to just lever it.
DO NOT use a carbon scraper, razor blade, roloc disks, etc on the head or block surface. It is easy to damage it. Engine degreaser, oven cleaner from the dollar store works. If you do scrape with anything, it should be something way softer than cast iron like aluminum. It will destroy the edge of the aluminum and not hurt the head or block. Wire brush by hand. Taking the time and effort keeps you from causing damage.
Whenever you see someone using a steel or carbide scraper - the plan is to check out if that part is worth sending to the machine shop or they just are unaware.
There is a ton of tricks you can do to avoid paying a lot of money if you rather put in more effort to save cash. Like resurfacing head & block deck via glass sheet & sandpaper. But if the valves are burnt- there isn’t a lot of options outside of a machine shop. If it’s going to a machine shop, cleaning it more than a pressure washer is a waste of time because they will need to hot tank it once valves are out- before they redo the valves and clean up the seats.
DO NOT use a carbon scraper, razor blade, roloc disks, etc on the head or block surface. It is easy to damage it. Engine degreaser, oven cleaner from the dollar store works. If you do scrape with anything, it should be something way softer than cast iron like aluminum. It will destroy the edge of the aluminum and not hurt the head or block. Wire brush by hand. Taking the time and effort keeps you from causing damage.
Whenever you see someone using a steel or carbide scraper - the plan is to check out if that part is worth sending to the machine shop or they just are unaware.
There is a ton of tricks you can do to avoid paying a lot of money if you rather put in more effort to save cash. Like resurfacing head & block deck via glass sheet & sandpaper. But if the valves are burnt- there isn’t a lot of options outside of a machine shop. If it’s going to a machine shop, cleaning it more than a pressure washer is a waste of time because they will need to hot tank it once valves are out- before they redo the valves and clean up the seats.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
I've had pretty good luck with just a high quality putty knife, a thick one that's not flexible. I sharpen it every so often and have even used it on aluminum parts. Key is to be careful. I'd shy away from the carbide one.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
The auto parts houses here didn't have the spring compressor. if that one will work for $20 it would be better than trying to make one. at least I can check if they are burnt, if they are then it's off the the machine shop. If not and just needs a lap job, I can do that.
Oh and I did check the injectors. they are long body but have fine threads. I was reading that the early heads used coarse threaded injectors. so that is a plus, I can use regular 6.5 short injectors.
Gonna try and save where I can so I can have enough set aside to have the IP rebuilt.
Do I need to pull the lifters before power washing the block or can I wash around them then pull them out for better cleaning?
Oh and I did check the injectors. they are long body but have fine threads. I was reading that the early heads used coarse threaded injectors. so that is a plus, I can use regular 6.5 short injectors.
Gonna try and save where I can so I can have enough set aside to have the IP rebuilt.
Do I need to pull the lifters before power washing the block or can I wash around them then pull them out for better cleaning?
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
I ordered a set of these plastic razor scrapers for the surfaces.
