Big T
Well-Known Member
IMO you’re chasing a money pit because of the low initial purchase price.
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Possible Engine Build for my 93 Truck
- Thread starter dbrannon79
- Start date
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Just heard back from the guy on marketplace, plan is to head out there in the morning, gonna have to pull it, but he's also giving me the trans too. it has a TH400 behind it.
don't really have use for it atm, but if, it's good, it's all mechanical so it will work on just about anything including my son's truck if he decided to go automatic on his 68 chevy!
don't really have use for it atm, but if, it's good, it's all mechanical so it will work on just about anything including my son's truck if he decided to go automatic on his 68 chevy!
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Pull it then drop the pan, inspect them main webs before dolling out that cash.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Well we have returned from picking up the engine and trans. when I arrived they were already working on pulling it out. all I helped with was lifting and pulling! got it loaded into my truck, tied down and headed back home.
My son and I set things up to get it down, I had to split the trans from the engine in the back of my truck simply because I was afraid that my homemade A frame built out of an old swing set and some land-scape timbers wouldn't hold up to the weight of both.
Left the trans in the back of my truck because I didn't feel like lifting it out.
I started looking over the engine real good and was honestly kinda surprised that there wasn't any oil, grease, or really anything caked on the engine anywhere. No evidence of anything leaking, only the valley was packed full of old leaves and acorn nuts as if a pack rat was there. I cleaned off all the wires and harness, removed the AC compressor and top rad hose so I could fit it through the door of my garage. pulled out the power washer and sprayed off the engine. It washed off clean mainly because it was just mouse house that was on the top, everything else was clean. we sat it down on a furniture dolly and wheeled it into the garage floor.
Once I got it in there I pulled all the glow plugs out, only two had some bulging and carbon build up, the rest came right out easily. I very carefully worked the two that were kinda stuck and got them out as well. all 8 were AC Delco branded but I couldn't read the part numbers on them. looking at the two I don't think they were bulged but had a lot of carbon build up.
Looking at the engine, I found the casting numbers and a date code right below the casting number, also where it's stamped "GM 6.2l D" on the front side of the passenger side.
This engine looks like it hasn't been in that old burb long. I also noticed that there is markings on the top side of the trans case that look like dates written in marker. one date reads 2-12-97 the other reads 2-17-97 so the trans at least has been rebuilt not too long ago. I got a little back story on the burb, it was owned by another fella the guy knows which he smoked. He was driving and flicked a cigarette which apparently landed in the back somewhere. he parked the burb inside his garage but later noticed smoke coming from within the garage. he flung open his garage door which ignited it all to a blaze. the fella actually went in there and drove the burb out while it was on fire to save his house. the fire department came and put the burb out. it's sat ever since (about 10 years) until recently his friend bought it for the frame and started parting it out.
He said his friend only used the burb at the time for family trips and vacations and to his knowledge it only had about 147k miles on it, though you could see it had been up north seeing all the lower quarters rusted out.
I didn't get to do any inspecting on it there, and he seemed honest plus the area he was in was a really nice neighborhood. I took his word and off we went.
The block is completely painted GM blue from when it was installed, not sure if the engine was rebuilt or maybe an actual GM crate reman of the time. It doesn't look like it was what I call a "craigslist rebuild" with a rattle can, but you never know.
Anyway after I got all the GP's out, I went to spin the crank with my ratchet and quickly discovered a hard spot. sprayed some lube in each of the GP holes and started working it. It would rotate almost 360 degrees in both directions until you felt that hard stop. it took a couple times rotating it back n fourth stop to stop then it suddenly broke free and then rotated perfectly fine. I think all that was stuck was a piece of carbon. there is no hard spot at all now, doesn't even feel stiff in that area. I also noticed that with a slight movement of the crank you can really hear air moving in and out of the GP holes. I'm being a little optimistic!
I need to get the other 6.2 that's cracked off my engine stand and this one mounted on it for a full inspection, but here are some photos.
I also took photos of the thermostat crossover, it's way different that what I have seen before. also there is a sensor that is threaded into the rear coolant block off plate I have no idea what it is. I have the connector for it on the harness I pulled off along with the fuel filter that was mounted on the firewall, it's a square box, something else I have not seen before, looks to be factory though with all the connectors going into the harness.
My son and I set things up to get it down, I had to split the trans from the engine in the back of my truck simply because I was afraid that my homemade A frame built out of an old swing set and some land-scape timbers wouldn't hold up to the weight of both.
Left the trans in the back of my truck because I didn't feel like lifting it out.
I started looking over the engine real good and was honestly kinda surprised that there wasn't any oil, grease, or really anything caked on the engine anywhere. No evidence of anything leaking, only the valley was packed full of old leaves and acorn nuts as if a pack rat was there. I cleaned off all the wires and harness, removed the AC compressor and top rad hose so I could fit it through the door of my garage. pulled out the power washer and sprayed off the engine. It washed off clean mainly because it was just mouse house that was on the top, everything else was clean. we sat it down on a furniture dolly and wheeled it into the garage floor.
Once I got it in there I pulled all the glow plugs out, only two had some bulging and carbon build up, the rest came right out easily. I very carefully worked the two that were kinda stuck and got them out as well. all 8 were AC Delco branded but I couldn't read the part numbers on them. looking at the two I don't think they were bulged but had a lot of carbon build up.
Looking at the engine, I found the casting numbers and a date code right below the casting number, also where it's stamped "GM 6.2l D" on the front side of the passenger side.
This engine looks like it hasn't been in that old burb long. I also noticed that there is markings on the top side of the trans case that look like dates written in marker. one date reads 2-12-97 the other reads 2-17-97 so the trans at least has been rebuilt not too long ago. I got a little back story on the burb, it was owned by another fella the guy knows which he smoked. He was driving and flicked a cigarette which apparently landed in the back somewhere. he parked the burb inside his garage but later noticed smoke coming from within the garage. he flung open his garage door which ignited it all to a blaze. the fella actually went in there and drove the burb out while it was on fire to save his house. the fire department came and put the burb out. it's sat ever since (about 10 years) until recently his friend bought it for the frame and started parting it out.
He said his friend only used the burb at the time for family trips and vacations and to his knowledge it only had about 147k miles on it, though you could see it had been up north seeing all the lower quarters rusted out.
I didn't get to do any inspecting on it there, and he seemed honest plus the area he was in was a really nice neighborhood. I took his word and off we went.
The block is completely painted GM blue from when it was installed, not sure if the engine was rebuilt or maybe an actual GM crate reman of the time. It doesn't look like it was what I call a "craigslist rebuild" with a rattle can, but you never know.
Anyway after I got all the GP's out, I went to spin the crank with my ratchet and quickly discovered a hard spot. sprayed some lube in each of the GP holes and started working it. It would rotate almost 360 degrees in both directions until you felt that hard stop. it took a couple times rotating it back n fourth stop to stop then it suddenly broke free and then rotated perfectly fine. I think all that was stuck was a piece of carbon. there is no hard spot at all now, doesn't even feel stiff in that area. I also noticed that with a slight movement of the crank you can really hear air moving in and out of the GP holes. I'm being a little optimistic!
I need to get the other 6.2 that's cracked off my engine stand and this one mounted on it for a full inspection, but here are some photos.
I also took photos of the thermostat crossover, it's way different that what I have seen before. also there is a sensor that is threaded into the rear coolant block off plate I have no idea what it is. I have the connector for it on the harness I pulled off along with the fuel filter that was mounted on the firewall, it's a square box, something else I have not seen before, looks to be factory though with all the connectors going into the harness.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Here are the pics of the trans.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
And the cast number with date code. I thought it kinda odd to have a date code like this, not unless this was one of those GM reman units or somesuch. were these diesels available back in 81? the burb is an 84.
Paveltolz
Доверяй, но проверяй
According to my search, GM started installing the 6.2 in their line up in 1982. 1981 casting would correct in order to meet production demands.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
So this must be a very early 6.2
btw I also got all the brackets and pulley setup for it, all v-belt drive. donno if that is a good thing or not, but I do prefer the old belt systems over the serpentine setups. I also like those jumbo AC compressors too. I had one in my old el-camino back in the day, they can pump some frigid cold air!
btw I also got all the brackets and pulley setup for it, all v-belt drive. donno if that is a good thing or not, but I do prefer the old belt systems over the serpentine setups. I also like those jumbo AC compressors too. I had one in my old el-camino back in the day, they can pump some frigid cold air!
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
I found out this doodabber is a glow plug controller! never seen one like this animal before. part number on the sticker is 15575722. looking online it's a GM part. wonder how this thingamig works.
Paveltolz
Доверяй, но проверяй
Don't know about that GP Controller but, earlier you'd asked about a DB2 rebuild company. You might try Classic Diesel Designs in Texas. I understand they're pushing some big plungers in their maxed out units. But, I'm sure they'll do what ever spec you want or is possible. They don't do DS4s. Internal pressure regulation won't allow for the output levels desired.
830-252-9767. Ask for Joe.
830-252-9767. Ask for Joe.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Yuppers- one of the first 6.2 -660 blocks.
That is what gm used for sensor connectivity before the weatherpack.
It’s probably good and somewhere out there a guy will be wanting to find a good used one. How you two meet up is the hard part- haha.
That’s a single stat non blockoff- but with the original rotation V-Belt system- balance flow is not a concern. If you are ok with v belt- stick with it. The harder part is finding exact lentils matching belts. Used to be we could buy them together in parts stores and you could see they matched because the words were cut as they made like 10 at a time then sliced them apart. There’s some YouTube videos showing them.
If you didn’t already- spray a little oil into each cylinder with wd40 can and straw to go through the precup via glowplug hole. This will help those rings that sat so long.
Then on your engine stand rig up the starter and let her rip through several revolutions. Once you know all the oil is out - compression test time.
That is what gm used for sensor connectivity before the weatherpack.
It’s probably good and somewhere out there a guy will be wanting to find a good used one. How you two meet up is the hard part- haha.
That’s a single stat non blockoff- but with the original rotation V-Belt system- balance flow is not a concern. If you are ok with v belt- stick with it. The harder part is finding exact lentils matching belts. Used to be we could buy them together in parts stores and you could see they matched because the words were cut as they made like 10 at a time then sliced them apart. There’s some YouTube videos showing them.
If you didn’t already- spray a little oil into each cylinder with wd40 can and straw to go through the precup via glowplug hole. This will help those rings that sat so long.
Then on your engine stand rig up the starter and let her rip through several revolutions. Once you know all the oil is out - compression test time.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
well I managed to get the cracked 6.2 off the stand and traded places with the newly acquired 6.2. I mounted the starter I had rather than using the starter that was on this engine simply because I knew it worked. ended up having to swap out brackets too. the bracket was different! ( pic below on the two starter brackets)
cranked the engine over by hand first, then wirled it over with the starter. I had already installed a gauge on the oil pressure port along with looping the cooler lines. Anddd I had a mess!! loads of carbon shot out everywhere! kept cranking until all the wd-40 and PB blaster I had sprayed in the GP holes all shot out. I was getting 60 psi on the gauge while cranking.
started getting ready to do a compression test. I had to do a repair on my test adapter right off the bat, on the first cylinder It wouldn't hold and kept leaking down. once I got that fixed it was off to the testing.
#1-100 #2-250
#3-zero #4-300
#5-280 #6-110
#7-300 #8-zero
I have a gut feeling that carbon is hanging some of the valves open or they are possibly stuck, I also am wondering if they might have been stuck down enough that when I felt the hard stop while cranking it by hand pistons have kissed some valves.
This was just a pliminary test, I still need to drop the oil pan and look at the bottom end yet. if all looks good, I will do further inspections.
question: can a bore scope be used to look at the cylinders by going in at the injector holes in the head? If so I will order another camera, I cannot find where I put the one I had that connects to my phone.
cranked the engine over by hand first, then wirled it over with the starter. I had already installed a gauge on the oil pressure port along with looping the cooler lines. Anddd I had a mess!! loads of carbon shot out everywhere! kept cranking until all the wd-40 and PB blaster I had sprayed in the GP holes all shot out. I was getting 60 psi on the gauge while cranking.
started getting ready to do a compression test. I had to do a repair on my test adapter right off the bat, on the first cylinder It wouldn't hold and kept leaking down. once I got that fixed it was off to the testing.
#1-100 #2-250
#3-zero #4-300
#5-280 #6-110
#7-300 #8-zero
I have a gut feeling that carbon is hanging some of the valves open or they are possibly stuck, I also am wondering if they might have been stuck down enough that when I felt the hard stop while cranking it by hand pistons have kissed some valves.
This was just a pliminary test, I still need to drop the oil pan and look at the bottom end yet. if all looks good, I will do further inspections.
question: can a bore scope be used to look at the cylinders by going in at the injector holes in the head? If so I will order another camera, I cannot find where I put the one I had that connects to my phone.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
no the only hole to go thru is the precup hole. i would pull the valve covers and verify the valves are moving correctly
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
That will be my next move, I am making rounds to pull the pan and inspect the under carriage. already draining old oil out and pulled the filter off. gonna eat some late lunch while it's draining. Then flip the engine over and pull the pan.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
well guys! I think we might have a good block! I pulled the pan off and see absolutely no cracks at all! I didn't photo all of the mains webbing, but i did inspect them all. donno how much $$ I will be able to sink into it as far as a full rebuild, but we shall see what all I can do. Next will be pulling the valve covers off and seeing if the valves are working properly.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
With it upside down- inspect the cylinder walls. Rotate crankas need to mo e pistons towards top of cylinder to see most of it.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
I did, didn't see much. could still see cross-hatching marks. a couple shiny areas that might be glazing.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Update: I put the pan back on and flipped it right side up. pulled the intake and IP lines, then the valve covers... these rockers are unusual. not seen any like these before ither! I rotated the crank by hand to verify all valves were moving. All looked good. then I decided to loosen all the rocker shafts so all of the valves were closed. used my blow gun on the compressor to pressurize each cylinder.
air comes out of the intake ports on #1, # 3, #2, #6, and #8. I believe I have a valve issue on the intake for just about all of them. donno if the valves are just carboned up, or they are burnt, or heads are cracked. This engine might just need replacement heads, I have heard that the 6.2's have larger valves and crack more easily than a 6.5.
This will conclude my inspections for today. but here are a couple pics of the rockers. they are really sludged up, but again I have never seen rockers like this on one of these engines.
air comes out of the intake ports on #1, # 3, #2, #6, and #8. I believe I have a valve issue on the intake for just about all of them. donno if the valves are just carboned up, or they are burnt, or heads are cracked. This engine might just need replacement heads, I have heard that the 6.2's have larger valves and crack more easily than a 6.5.
This will conclude my inspections for today. but here are a couple pics of the rockers. they are really sludged up, but again I have never seen rockers like this on one of these engines.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
If those are the rockers I think they are, some people really like them over the rocker button ones
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
They look like they are a much better design than the button type. springs keep them in place, I guess one of those springs would have to break for them to walk off the valve or push rod. Not sure if they are cast iron or aluminum, I would need to clean them off to see.
Heads will need to come off to see if the valves are the problem or the heads are cracked, but worst case scnario I have the heads that are on the other 6.2 or the heads that are on the 6.5 that's in 93. I know the ones in my 93 don't have coolant issues and the engine runs so that's a plus I guess. the other 6.2 will also run and had a round about 250-280 compression but I never hooked a cooling system to it, only ran the garden hose through it to run the engine for a while on the stand.
Heads will need to come off to see if the valves are the problem or the heads are cracked, but worst case scnario I have the heads that are on the other 6.2 or the heads that are on the 6.5 that's in 93. I know the ones in my 93 don't have coolant issues and the engine runs so that's a plus I guess. the other 6.2 will also run and had a round about 250-280 compression but I never hooked a cooling system to it, only ran the garden hose through it to run the engine for a while on the stand.