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P400 in the Burb install

So what do you think of running the engine without the accessories and the front upper cover and H20 pump on it Chris? I guess I need to be the Huckleberry here. I wish I had one of those stands to hold my phone to shoot a video, maybe I can get the wife to hold and do the video. I'll LMAO if it shoots oil all over her as$! Maybe I need someone shooting a video of her, LOL! Like I stated before, I just want to see if the engine runs on all 8 with your pump. If it will idle on 8 cyl without the cover and everything looks good then I'll install the H20 pump and coolant and accessories and run it to maybe to 2000 RPM max, then I'm done with your pump, it will have proven the problem in my eyes. I'm buying that .310 pump that you turned me onto as a spare.
 
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spdgofast said:
Here is the cam gear installed and torqued with the DSG gear drive gear. Note the position of the timing dot on the gear which rotated a little while torquing the cam bolt to 125 FT LBS.
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Twisted Steel Performance said:
I have always wondered about the small half moon key in the cam and why it wasn't a full slot ?

I may just mill the slot in my cam and use a full length key... as is only about half the key engages the pump gear..
Click to expand...

I have noticed the little slippage in tightening on the key slot on a couple engines in the past. Mever was happy with the crappy factory key sizes and fitting.
I would sure love to see anything to make it better.

Chris is on point with not filling the weep holes. I always use Permatex and to seal. So to ensure none plugs it: I set a piece of safety wire in there, seal everything up, then slide out he wire.

Never tried not running with the cover- that would be interesting.

I would suggest running the backup pump, then shelving it. Know that it works good first.

Long term storage for those who don’t know:
Small ammo can, drill a hole and add a metal valve stem. Run some non ethonal fuel through it so thats what’s inside while it sits and no ethonal to go bad in there. Buy a can of spray cosmoline for the outside. Then put in the sealing ammo can and use a/c vacuum pump to pull it into vacuum and remove oxygen. Poof- zombie day stored ip. Same can for alternators, starters, etc for emp proof storage for tin foil hatters.
 
I think you will be ok, just don't run it for long, with no water the heads will get hot fast... I doubt much oil will fly, it's just splashed in that area not pressurized...
 
One more thing I thought of but I think not to do is to re torque the cam bolt after I let it run for 1 minute max. But this would break loose the lock tight, so I don't think it's a good idea. Now if the gears are running untrue obviously that would mean another problem but I don't think a re torque is going to fix an issue like that. I'm going to fire it up without the cover for a max time of 1 minute and see what everything looks like. Just after breakfast:happy:
 
Well I gave up on getting it to run, the longest I could get it to run was about 30 seconds, pretty sure was not firing on all 8 cylinders. It would not run long enough for me to crack open injector lines to see which ones were not firing. I took a couple of videos but I can't even get them down loaded on my computer so I have been on the phone with apple trying to figure out why I can't. I did a update on my phone friday morning now it doesn't work right. I did turn the motor to align the 0 on the harmonic dampner with the 0 on the timing tab and took pics, to verify the cam gear has not moved on the cam. I even added a fuel pressure gauge 2" before the IP inlet to make sure I didn't have a fuel supply problem. I don't know, maybe the pumps been sitting too long, I'm at my wits end. Presently on eternal hold with apple and discussed with all of it. FYI it's not a problem running without the front cover on, I used a oil can (like the one the tin man used in the Wizard Of Oz) and pre lubed all of the gears. If you have an auto trans need to be sure and connect tranny cooler lines.
 

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Remove all 8 glowplugs. Remove all 8 injectors and do the 8 water bottles.with injectors into them. Then you will know 100% there is no restrictions inside any injection lines or injectors.
You HAVE to eliminate them as possible problems.

Then once verified, do the compression test on all 8.

I know it is all more work but at this point you NEED 100% clarity to what is happening.
 
Will L. said:
Remove all 8 glowplugs. Remove all 8 injectors and do the 8 water bottles.with injectors into them. Then you will know 100% there is no restrictions inside any injection lines or injectors.
You HAVE to eliminate them as possible problems.

Then once verified, do the compression test on all 8.

I know it is all more work but at this point you NEED 100% clarity to what is happening.
Click to expand...
I have done all of this already.
 
The only way my injector lines could have a blockage is if it came from the pump. Like I said earlier I took my time with everything and the lines got brake clean shot through them and then shop air before being laid next to the pump in the previous photo with the red plastic caps on them, post #331. Chris, how long since it ran on a motor?
 
Here's what it does, when it starts in runs rough then maybe tries to smooth out then die's. And it won't start back up. There is no way I can have the timing 180* off correct? Follow the pics in the thread, I believe they tell a thorough sequence of assembly. I have a video on my phone but I can't get it on my computer and I'm not worth a shit at using my phone to upload to the internet, hopefully Apple will get this problem fixed when I can get on another eternal phone call with them.
 
Twisted Steel Performance said:
I'm 99.9% sure that pump runs, it was removed from a running motor, when you send it back I will install it on my motor ans see..
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Chris, I would never doubt your word, but just as I sold ak diesel driver a DS4 pump a while back that I new 100% it ran perfect when I removed it from this Suburban, but when he installed it it didn't run right. But I believe he ran Bio fuel through it and it cleaned it out and ran good as far as I know.
 
if I get it back in time I'll install it next weekend and see...

I don't believe they can sit too long, the one on my truck now was on a motor that the truck caught fire add burnt the rear of the motor, sat at a salvage yard who knows how long, sat here for 3 years then installed and never missed a lick...
 
I would think it would be fine also, though as I stated earlier Mel @ Conestoga thinks 5 months with calibration fluid kept @ 70* could create a problem, (which I don't believe BTW). At this time I could bolt the Conestoga pump back on to have it consistently start and run but miss on # 2 and # 7 cylinders and probably shear a cam gear key way or try another pump. IDK! I'll retard the timing a bit tomorrow before I remove the pump to send back to you I guess. I have not put a timing light on it yet, the line on the pump is about 1/16" advanced to the DS. I'll do any tests you ask before I remove it if you'd like Chris.
 
Well it hasn't run long enough to purge the air yet it doesn't sound like..

Get some pam spray or wd40 and squirt it and make the motor run, I guess you are working the throttle some ?

If you don't have it solved by next weekend I can video my truck running and send that pump, if yours doesn't run we will know something is up in your place..
 
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