I’m glad to hear you’re finally on what sounds like a path forward, even though you need to yank it. What are the chances one of the valves in the #2 cylinder was hanging open when the engine was dormant and the humidity in Florida rusted the valve and or seat so now it won’t seal?One thing I would like to add that is kinda weird is that even though I know I have valve seat issues on #2 cylinder when I ran both of the pumps that Chris loaned me the #2 hole was clearly firing, no smoke out of the exhaust port and it would burn my hand if I held my hand in front of the exhaust port, (remember, I'm running it without an exhaust mani on the PS side) when I crack open the injection line it would kill that cylinder. But when I ran the Conestoga pump the #2 hole smoked and would not burn my hand but there was a little difference in the running when I cracked open the injector line. I know, I need to add H20 and run it some more which I defiantly intend on doing before I pull the motor.
Peter, all 6.2 valves aren't larger, only a certain few years were.. The ones in question are .125thou or 1/8" bigger thus allowing more flow through the heads.. My set also have the bigger valves, and I went one step further with the unshrouding around the seat area..Sorry if this was covered earlier in the thread, but what was the intention/ purpose behind 6.2 valves in the P400 head?
I an w/the IFS but in 2wd for shakedown now building a full manual Dodge 47RH/48 4x4 hybrid transmission using a Dodge NP241 DLD front case and a GM NP 241c rear case so far its looking like I will not have to move the IFS x-member from the stock location.Did Fellow Traveler do his Cummins conversion with the OEM independent suspension or did he go to a straight axle in the front? I feel that going to a straight axle totally looses the factory ride that I like on my Burb. If I was going for a jacked up on 38 or 40 inch tire rig then I would throw away the IFS ride and do a straight axle conversion. Just talking about options for others out there, like I said, I'm to invested in the P400 with the OEM IFS ride at this time so I just have to put my head down and move forward. So it looks like I'll be pulling my 100 mile P400 engine out pretty soon.
82-87 6.2's... The valves were canted slightly different in the heads...1/8" seems pretty significant, wonder why it wasn't kept that way if it indeed gives better performance? Out of curiosity, which years specifically had the larger valves?
So your conversion is on a 4x4 with IFS you just haven't completed the T case and drive shaft configuration yet, correct?I an w/the IFS but in 2wd for shakedown now building a full manual Dodge 47RH/48 4x4 hybrid transmission using a Dodge NP241 DLD front case and a GM NP 241c rear case so far its looking like I will not have to move the IFS x-member from the stock location.
I was going to lower the front IFS diff 2" but that required grinding off lots of reinforcement on the IFS case on drivers side so I'm going to shave upper rightside IFS case in the area of the top 3 bolts it is real close to the Cummins oil pan edge.
Yes to your question.So your conversion is on a 4x4 with IFS you just haven't completed the T case and drive shaft configuration yet, correct?
I had a 12 valve Cummins from a 96 5spd manual with the 215HP pump that I was going to install before I went with the P400, I didn't want the added expense of a built 48RE trans with a stand alone computer and a 271 T case which I figured would be like 8 to 10 k plus the engine mods and install, you know how that hindsight is right? 20/20 I still think the shit would be a 06 Cummins EFI live 5.9 twin turbo 48RE and a 271 t case. But then a fully deleted 6.7 with the same setup would work. It's a freaking viscous cycle! If I could only win the Lotto and get all of this shit done!