okay so the time is coming that I am going to start fixing her up. I don't drive her because she has a few minor leaks. I bought her from Spdgofast on DieselPlace forums and found an old thread of his about my Tahoe from when he owned it. I am pasting a link here for reference and it has information About mods he did that I have yet to learn about. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63...cations/473656-hx-35-tahoe-6.html#post8093506 is it possible that this can be one of my leaks? Any help I would appreciate. So thanks guys.
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Need help with my 99 6.5 Tahoe please
- Thread starter aLpHaSuRf
- Start date
jrsavoie
Recruit
Where are your leaks coming from? What are you leaking?
From what I understand the Provent can cause leaks if not properly maintained.
Do you know if these are new leaks or are there leaks that Dave knew about and may be able to help out with info on?
From what I understand the Provent can cause leaks if not properly maintained.
Do you know if these are new leaks or are there leaks that Dave knew about and may be able to help out with info on?
When I bought it he said she had only one leak which wasn't anything major. He said it was leaking a drip of oil from the harmonic balancer. So I guess driving from Forida to South Carolina I developed about 3 more leaks from all the vibration or something. I mentioned she had more then one leak to him and he said he didn't know because she sat up far awhile. I was hoping if he knew about them he would fess up and be honest to make it easier for me to get to the source of them and fix them. No luck there.
jrsavoie
Recruit
I would install a Fluidamper and change the seal while you are there.
Check your valve covers and turbo return line.
I'd get a turbo return line kit from Leroy like he made for me, regardless. I always hated the OEM turbo returns and Mine always leaked - on all the vehicles, unless I did something different than OEM to replace them
Are all of your leaks oil? Or do you possibly have a fuel leak as well?
Check your valve covers and turbo return line.
I'd get a turbo return line kit from Leroy like he made for me, regardless. I always hated the OEM turbo returns and Mine always leaked - on all the vehicles, unless I did something different than OEM to replace them
Are all of your leaks oil? Or do you possibly have a fuel leak as well?
Will L.
Well-Known Member
All you can do is climb under and track down location. Take pics and post them here if you want to be sure.
One thing not mentioned yet to you is most mechanic shops, including dealerships, SUCK at 6.5 repairs to fuel injection system. Most things are standard repair. If you take it into a shop, just post here what's happening before authorizing repair to stop pitfalls.
Things like oil leak should be ok for about any shop to get an estimate from. The big panic oil leak on these is the 2 oil cooler lines that go from oil filter area of block to cooler next to the radiator. If one of those hoses blow, engine is toast in seconds.
One thing not mentioned yet to you is most mechanic shops, including dealerships, SUCK at 6.5 repairs to fuel injection system. Most things are standard repair. If you take it into a shop, just post here what's happening before authorizing repair to stop pitfalls.
Things like oil leak should be ok for about any shop to get an estimate from. The big panic oil leak on these is the 2 oil cooler lines that go from oil filter area of block to cooler next to the radiator. If one of those hoses blow, engine is toast in seconds.
What part of Carolina ?
It might be easier to pressure wash everything under the hood then start looking..
Have a look at the oil cooler hoses, they run on the DS of motor towards the radiator, if they haven't been replaced they are suspect ..
It might be easier to pressure wash everything under the hood then start looking..
Have a look at the oil cooler hoses, they run on the DS of motor towards the radiator, if they haven't been replaced they are suspect ..
Okay all. I am not going to quote each of you to reply so let me start by trying to address all questions which were brought up.
Jrsavoie, I believe I have two oil leaks one front towards passenger side near mid to rear of passenger front tire but not close to the tire let's say more near passenger side of engine block. Other oil leak seems to be coming from same side but more near the rear start of the transmission. One other leak looks to be antifreeze I am guessing. Today I was very busy all day building a work bench in the garage. Tomorrow I will be cleaning the rest of the garage so I have room to pull her into the garage which is level ground get her up on jack stands use some degreaser from lowes and maybe brake cleaner and try to locate the leaks. I will take pictures when I am under there and post them.
As for the fluidamper if I am able to take on that job by myself I will.
Okay now Will...
I will not bring it to a mechanic. I am sick of feeling like I'm getting sharked by a mechanic. I am fully capable of doing the repairs myself. I like learning new things, I like working with my hands. The only thing is I need the right tools for the job I am taking on. The other thing is that some people can read instructions and learn, some people can look at pictures and learn. Well I'm the type of person that learns from watching.
Oh yeah Will the PO Spdgofast told me not long ago he replaced the oil cooler lines with the oem lines.
scTrailRider, I live in Myrtle Beach.
Guys today I took the diesel Tahoe to Walmart. I wish someone who has a 6.5 can drive mine. I look over all of the PO threads and in one thread he said it has no power and wouldn't tow anything!!! This is my first diesel and I am not sure if the way it drives is good or not. Look at the mods done by PO.
- New fuel tank, pickup, fuel injection pump and all 8 injectors. The battery cables replaced and modified to top post battery cables. Holset HX 35 Dodge Cummins turbo. 3 gauge A pilar pod with Auto Meter boost, exhaust gas temp & transmission temp gages. Factory vacuum pump deleted. A none EGR intake manifold. PMD has been relocated to the inside of the front bumber. Remote top mounted oil filter. Front drilled rotors. Serviced rear brakes & new wheel cylinders. Five position transfer case recently replaced. Rebuilt A/C compressor, evaporator, condenser, dryer and all hoses were replaced. Pair of PIA Off Road driving lights. 2 front southern comfort power seats. 18" LTZ Chrome wheels
How should this truck drive? Should she be powerful like my two gassers? My 96 5.7 Tahoe and 99 5.7 Suburban.
Oh by the way. Tomorrow I am going to buy a the 1995 6.5 TD suburban. I might sell the Tahoe after I fix her up if the suburban drives better.
Jrsavoie, I believe I have two oil leaks one front towards passenger side near mid to rear of passenger front tire but not close to the tire let's say more near passenger side of engine block. Other oil leak seems to be coming from same side but more near the rear start of the transmission. One other leak looks to be antifreeze I am guessing. Today I was very busy all day building a work bench in the garage. Tomorrow I will be cleaning the rest of the garage so I have room to pull her into the garage which is level ground get her up on jack stands use some degreaser from lowes and maybe brake cleaner and try to locate the leaks. I will take pictures when I am under there and post them.
As for the fluidamper if I am able to take on that job by myself I will.
Okay now Will...
I will not bring it to a mechanic. I am sick of feeling like I'm getting sharked by a mechanic. I am fully capable of doing the repairs myself. I like learning new things, I like working with my hands. The only thing is I need the right tools for the job I am taking on. The other thing is that some people can read instructions and learn, some people can look at pictures and learn. Well I'm the type of person that learns from watching.
Oh yeah Will the PO Spdgofast told me not long ago he replaced the oil cooler lines with the oem lines.
scTrailRider, I live in Myrtle Beach.
Guys today I took the diesel Tahoe to Walmart. I wish someone who has a 6.5 can drive mine. I look over all of the PO threads and in one thread he said it has no power and wouldn't tow anything!!! This is my first diesel and I am not sure if the way it drives is good or not. Look at the mods done by PO.
- New fuel tank, pickup, fuel injection pump and all 8 injectors. The battery cables replaced and modified to top post battery cables. Holset HX 35 Dodge Cummins turbo. 3 gauge A pilar pod with Auto Meter boost, exhaust gas temp & transmission temp gages. Factory vacuum pump deleted. A none EGR intake manifold. PMD has been relocated to the inside of the front bumber. Remote top mounted oil filter. Front drilled rotors. Serviced rear brakes & new wheel cylinders. Five position transfer case recently replaced. Rebuilt A/C compressor, evaporator, condenser, dryer and all hoses were replaced. Pair of PIA Off Road driving lights. 2 front southern comfort power seats. 18" LTZ Chrome wheels
How should this truck drive? Should she be powerful like my two gassers? My 96 5.7 Tahoe and 99 5.7 Suburban.
Oh by the way. Tomorrow I am going to buy a the 1995 6.5 TD suburban. I might sell the Tahoe after I fix her up if the suburban drives better.
Last edited:
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
first leak is probably the turbo drain line. second I'd check the leak closely to see if it's fuel colored by oil.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
or valve cover
NVW
Well-Known Member
As AK said the oil is likely the turbo drain. The anti freeze is likely the quick coupler from the crossover to the heater line. That and fuel leaks will flow through the galley into a drain hole at the back of the valley.
jrsavoie
Recruit
I find that hard to describe. LOL With 3.73 gears it should be pretty snappy.
tanman_2006
Just a farm kid...
Unless its over boosting and defueling it should move nicely. With a tune it should move real well.
Well compared to both my 99 5.7 Burban and 96 5.7 Tahoe even with all the mods it doesn't compare. PO has a thread where he states he couldn't pull anything with it. I'm confused I mean I know it's not supposed to be quick off the line like a gasser and I don't press her anyways due to I don't beat any of my vehicles. It's just this is my first diesel and I'm not sure how the power at moderate acceleration should be. Also I'm wonder if the PO couldn't tow anything with it I might not be able to either and I will be getting a camper soon!
Okay today I starting making room in my garage for her. Should have her in there by tomorrow night. Then I get her on jack stands and clean her up underneath and take a slew of pics both under and from engine bay. Built a work bench today.
How can I tell if that's happening? I can get into that right now but I am just wondering so after I fix my leaks that will be my next project. Oh by the way on my turbo RX7's I used to upgrade all my lines to steel braided. Do they have them for these trucks and are they good?
In stock trim these are fuel mizers, not pullers.... they often don't do well as they aren't set up for power....
Your gassers will out run a stock level 6.5 with no trouble....
I'm a few hours from ya up I-26.....
Your gassers will out run a stock level 6.5 with no trouble....
I'm a few hours from ya up I-26.....
JayTheCPA
Well-Known Member
I would not not pull with it either unless the rear was upgraded. The Ho's rear is lighter duty as compared to the pickup and Burb. There is a 'Police package' for the Ho that some confuse as making it heavy duty, but IIRC this just adds a transmission cooler and heavier brakes, not the truck rear.
For a towing configuration, (in addition to the stated mods), I'd make sure the Ho has an aux trans cooler, a good rear, 3-1/2" wide rear shoes, and upgrade the front brakes to the 1 ton parts.
To bring the point full circle . . . A stock Ho's rear and brakes were sized to pretty much handle just its own weight. Towing is possible, but not upgrading the rear will lead to its failure and not upgrading the brakes will result in uncomfortable stopping plus short rotor life from warpage. So, the Ho can tow, but will need mods to get it there. Good news part is that the parts are commonly available.
In terms of the drilled rotors, consider replacing them with a solid disc from either a 3/4 or better yet 1 ton.
If it has a tune that matches the turbo, from a standing-start 0 - 60 it should puff some gray smoke at launch, smoke should clear fairly quickly, and it should get to 60 in about 10 - 12 seconds. Power should remain a solid pull all the way to 60 as the Holset should light fairly early. Black smoke indicates it is either dumping too much fuel or starving for air. White smoke indicates coolant (can also indicate the motor is cold). Blue smoke means oil.
Also, take a look at the air filter. If it has radial creases (ex: around the 'middle' of the filter), it is collapsing from not flowing enough air under heavy load. Cure is to replace with a bigger element.
In terms of comparing the gasser to diesel. The difference comes when climbing mountains at speed. At 70 mph, the gassers will downshift as they climb significant grades where the diesel will just walk right up without breaking a sweat.
Just an update. I'll be working on her soon. Just been busy past two days with family life, and work. I also bought the 1995 GMC Suburban 6.5 TD. She runs just as good if not better then my 1999 Tahoe 6.5. She's got 8 lug but she is the 1500 not 2500. I am proud second owner. She has a button I have to push with the key in turned to on position count to 10 and start her but she doesn't start as easy as the 99. The Og Owner had the PMD relocated inside the front grill as you will see in the pics. Also he said super go plugs or something like that is why push that damn button! I am not crazy about the rims and want to tint the Windows. She recently had wheel bearings and hubs replaced. I think it's time for new struts/shocks.Here are pics from last night driving her back home when we stopped at a gas station for drinks.
Well still need to buy some jack stands and get the Tahoe into the garage. I bought some degreaser and brake cleaner to clean the bottom of her.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Will the dash light come on without pushing the button? If not you can always wire it back proper. Replacing his magical insta-junk glow plugs (I too have wasted $ on them) with some Bosch duratherm or AC Delco 60g will fix that annoyance.
Never use starting fluid, a touch too much will toast your engine. Any amount will destroy a good set of glow plugs.
Nice lookin rides.
Never use starting fluid, a touch too much will toast your engine. Any amount will destroy a good set of glow plugs.
Nice lookin rides.