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My new truck

Anyone adding a fuel pressure guage should consider a snubber between the sensor and fuel flow. I think the constant needle bounce killed my fuel pressure guage.

I am thinking of doing a longer deadend line to the sensor and maybe loop it up high and or add coil of hose or P trap configuration unsure exactly then a little more distance then the sensor. Hoping to make a little reservoir of airbubble in the line to act like an accumulator and dampener for guage and fuel pressure between the LP and IP.
 
Looking at the pic. of the gauge, is it the green needle or the red needle that shows the boost pressure.
Also, is there a fear of blowing head gaskets running next to 20 pounds of boost ?
 
I think most believe its the temperature that is the killer. Keep engine temp below ~215/220F and it survives much better. Seems there are lots of reports of when temps consistently goes over 220F in stockish tends to shorten the life of engine with bottom end damage or head gasket etc.

I can't see the block metal having any problems with such a low temperature so to me it has to be temperature of combustion.

There is a combination effect to temperature indicators. I propose that when the coolant temperature is above 220F in stockish form and the combustion temps are really high and Diesel ignites faster and spikes the peak combustion pressure at nearer TDC stressing the crank, mains, and head gasket from different forces/pressures at TDC. This is caused by hotter areas the precup are significantly different temps compared cylinder to cylinder causing variations in TDC pressures rise. Once stroke continues pressures I think normalize a bit due to same amount of fuel in each cylinder so the rest of the stroke is more consistent cylinder to cylinder (but how fast it rises there is the problem). The mechanical advantage of lever across TDC is so low its hard to measure the difference in torque on crank and its not enough to nail or measure consistently as its very short time. Its more a fatigue effect over time on a light duty engine.

When you start modifying the package it lives much better with lower temperatures of combustion. Coolant temp being the easiest to measure most common temp indicator and easily correlated. But there are supporting mods and best if worked as a theme or scheme. Boost can't be looked at only. Here with a better turbo more hot exhaust gasses are expelled out the cylinder due to lower drive pressure that more cooling intake air is induced and the mix of left over gasses and new air are cooler so that the combustion temp is lower than stock form just comparing the same boost numbers.
 
Green needle is boost orange is drive pressure. That's last pic is reading about 12 psi.
On a separate note from Idaho falls to nephi Utah I averaged 18.3 mpg. Probably slightly downhill though.
 
So fuel system update. So when I first put my raptor pump on I checked the fuel pressure and it read 12-14. Then I had my oring issue on the suction side of my LP. Got that fixed and headed out on my trip. During the trip the engine seemed extra rattley. Also my fuel pressure read quite a bit higher and finally settled down a little lower. So when I got to Simon's we put a 15 psi pressure gauge on it and it pegged it against the stop and then broke.
So we turned it down and used my in dash gauge and setting it to close to where I remembered it reading when it was 12-14.
Got here to my in-laws and bought a 30psi gauge. When I checked it, it was 11. Turned it back up to 14.5. so I'm kinda wondering if my suction leak was giving me lower readings, or maybe an air bubble was cushioning it or what?
Also read on a spec sheet Simon had that fuel pressure was supposed to be 8-16.
 
So other than my fuel pressure issue the truck ran great. Pretty happy with my upgrades. One of the things I'm going to look into is a tow/haul mode for the tranny. Don't really care for how it downshifts. Spent a fair amount of time pulling it out of overdrive because I couldn't get it to downshift without stomping the pedal to the floor and even then sometimes it wouldn't. Pulling it down to 3rd and then letting the ATT sing around 2500 rpm or so was really nice.
 
Good to see you happy with the results. It’s nice to have some results soon after install.

How high rpm did you run it? What boost/ drive pressures up there? I ask because 2500 rpm is barely a slowing point for me. I usually am WOT until 2700 then ease up a little to 2800. Seeing as my injectors are going to be pushing 100psi over yours, and I just haven’t seen another turbo that seems as well a fit as that ATT.

Mine will have to have different exhaust feeding it, but I don’t expect much improvement there really.
 
Yeah, thats where if you get programmed to dump more fuel starting at say 1700 rpm you can “tune” it to light up sooner. Too much too soon is the coal train express, And if you want it to have less boost on higher rpm, the opposite can be done. Progamming know how dudes ( @THEFERMANATOR ) can explain it much better, as there is more to it than just more or less fuel involved. But just like tuning a turbo, I know enough to give the pro the info he needs, then sign the check and get out if his way-haha.

Thats where big turbos and full mechanical pumps can have issues not upsetting the epa. Fine tuning is big toe wiggle, so more often than not- getting all the juice out of it is not lung friendly.
 
Put new front brakes on yesterday. Rotors calipers and pads. Turned the old ones but the were right at the discard limit so I opted for new. Actually turned the new ones too. Took a really light cut just to true them up. Whoever designed the brakes on these should be shot. The rotors could at least be outboard of the hub, I probably would have run the old rotors if it wasn't such a chore to get them off. Best brakes I've had since I got the truck.
 
Glad to hear you’re happy with the brakes now. It is a stupid design and helps no one. Just an engineer needed to justify his work week once imo so he changes things to stay busy.

On the design flaws, I have long had a revenge dream against engineers.
I want to take a hard to change part that should be easy, buy a factory new one. All the normal tools required to change it, and it should be something that takes about 4 hours on the book. Load up tools, part, and the engineer that designed it on a 3 day drive out to the middle of nowhere desert. Leave him 1 day worth of food and water and break the part that he has to change in order to drive back.
So many times keeping food on the table has been in the balance on bs designs and unfair times- and I was quicker than most - I watched so many guys loose everything over it. And we’ve all had injuries and pain from it, even if you forget about the mental half.
It is a hard thing to remember vengeance is not for me to dole out sometimes.

Sorry for ranting on your post.
 
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